Which should I use Regular Kapton tape or Low Static Kapton tape for insulating decoders and motors for DCC installs?
I never knew there was a Low Static Kapton. The plain old Kapton works fine AFAIK. Mostly, unless you have an issue with static (certain weather can aggravate that, along with your general climate) I wouldn’t see the need for the special stuff.
I don’t use Kapton tape. I do use Scotch plastic packing tape either clear or brown. I think there is no reason you can’t use it. My locos don’t get that warm that it would effect the tape. Just because someone says you have to use only kapton tape doesn’t mean YOU HAVE to.
Kapton tape has outstanding adhesive qualities, and it is an excellent insulator.
So, it should be the tape of choice on decoder installs.
Low Static Kapton tape doesn’t cost anymore than regular Kapton tape, and it is recommended where static discharge is a concern. Otherwise, the regular Kapton tape works just fine.
Rich
I haven’t found that I’ve needed Kapton tape for anything. I use double sided foam tape to secure decoders and I use Scotch Magic tape to secure loose wires to the motor. Even with Athearn or Proto decoder conversions, if you cut off the prongs that make the ground connections or reverse the brackets, then nothing is going to touch the frame. The only time where I’ve needed to insulate is on old Bachmann/Spectrum drives where the motor is surrounded by the chassis and cardboad or regular electrical tape will do there. All other insulating is done with shribk tubing. I’ve never had any problems with shorts on any conversions.
The real beauty of Kapton tape is its thinness. It insulates without interfering with the installation.
Rich
Like Modelmaker, I use double sided foam tape to secure the decoder/light board to the top of the motor (I’m assuming we are continuing the discussion of the Athearn Blue Box thread). I cut it down to about 2/3s width so it is slightly wider than the top clip. It holds the decoder quite stoutly, and it sticks to the underside of the decoder, not interferring with the doodads on the top.
For the underside, I stick tape to the frame, not the motor. I cover the entire flat motor mount area with any kind of thin tape, two or three layers depending upon the type of tape, and even up the sides a little bit. I don’t see a reason for “insulating” tape since all we’re trying to do is to put a barrier between the bottom clip and the metal frame. After the frame is well taped, I use a sharp number two pencil to poke holes in the tape for the rubber motor mounts/new nylon screws. If the tape loses its stickiness in ten years, who cares? there is still a large barrier in between the clip and the frame that isn’t going anywhere unless you remove the motor again.
Edit: Yes, removing the clip’s prongs is still important.
So low static if I’m taping the back of the decoder wouldn’t necessarily be a bad idea. Additionally, do I need to replace the metal screws from the Athearn RTR locomotive motor mount? The 4 screws do not appear to contact the motor, but they become magnetically attractive when installed (i had a track nail that was loose on the workbench get stick to a screw head).
I’m not sure that I get your point here.
If you are trying to put a barrier between the bottom clip and the metal frame, aren’t you trying to insulate the metal frame from the decoder?
Rich
I meant I keep the bottom clip of the Athearn motor from touching the frame. I simply tape up the inside of the frame since there is more surface area to stick too, rather than putting tape on the bottom of the motor. Its all the same really.
I ended up taping both the motor clips and the frame under the motor on my GP38RTR, since I couldnt find the source of my fried decoder. I suspect that the leads for functions 3&4 (green and purple) came into contact with either the frame or the right rail leads from the trucks. Both the leads from the trucks and the unused function leads have been taped. I noticed while on the programming track the decoder made a chirping sound when commands were sent to it. Decoder type NCE D13SRJ. Is this indicative of a short?
Also do the frame screws come into contact with the motor?
When commands are received by a decoder while on the program track the decoder responds with a very short burst of power to the motor, moving the locomotive a small fraction of an inch. This is normal–it is the way you know whether or not a command was received by the decoder. The chirp sound you heard is probably the tiny jerk of the locomotive.
Now, if you heard a real chirping sound, all bets are off. I don’t know what that would be.
I looked into buying kapton tape online from the manufacturer (Dupont). They wanted $8.50 per roll, which I found acceptable. Then I went to the shipping and they wanted $22 for UPS ground (cheapest option). They can keep their kapton tape. Any suggestions about where to find kapton tape?
Several of the online hobby suppliers stock Kapton tape. Ulrich, Litchfield Station, MB Klein and Tony’s all offer it. The prices vary depending on the width of the tape and the length of the roll. However, it is not cheap.
Joe
True, if you buy from hobby shops. It is less expensive and you get a lot more if you go right to the source.
Rich
Thanks for the link Rich. There are some good savings. How are their shipping costs?
Joe
Out of curiosity I followed Rich’s link. Shipping for one $10 roll of 1/2" tape was estimated at$30.14! Think I will pass.
From what I can interpret from BMMECNYC’s last post he already looked at the manufacturer’s website and objected to the cost. Or maybe the $22 shipping charge.
Hmm mm. …why the OPs sudden need of Kapton? I thought he didn’t want my help?!?..hope he enjoyed my Tutorial…lol
The cost I did find acceptable. Shipping was unacceptable. 3-4x the price of the item for shipping that isnt even overnight. No thanks. I’ll continue to use black electrical tape. Most decoders are shrink wrapped anyway with a material that is thicker that electrical tape, and I only put the tape on the bottom of the decoder for the most part.