Kato HO NW2

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Couple of questions about (HO) Kato’s NW2:

About how many years ago was it available?

If anyone has one, is it a good runner?

Thanks in advance

Dick

2

Hello Dick,

The Kato HO scale NW2 was introduced about 1993, and Jim Hediger reviewed it in the February 1994 Model Railroader. It’s an excellent runner, very quiet and smooth, and with good power for its size. I have two of them myself.

Its only drawback in today’s terms is that there’s not much room for installing a DCC decoder or a speaker. This switcher has a diecast chassis that pretty much fills up the hood, and some of it might have to be milled away to make room for a DCC installation.

So long,

Andy

3

Andy is (of course) correct. They are great runners and there is very little room inside. In fact the shell fits so snugly it can be difficult to remove. I sent mine to Litchfield Station for a non-sound decoder install. It is by far the best running switcher I have.

4

I milled the body to get some room for a decoder:

More pics at my site.

Wolfgang

5

Again, thank you everybody. And thanks for the decoder info. I started wondering about that right after I posted.

6

I have one in NYC scheme. If interested,PM ,me as we are not supposed to sell on the forum.

7

I also have two of them and the z scale wired decoder fits in the cab with a little work, Jim.

8

I agree with everyone, they are one of the best swtchers in HO. It is possible to put a Tsnami Micro in them though, I have 2 of them and I’ve put sound in one of mine and one of my brothers. It requires milling the frame for the decoder and milling the fuel tank area for the speaker. Unfortunately the only place for the capacitor is in the cab, but if you paint it black it’s hard to see. Hope this helps.

9

I have 2, both are excellent runners. The chassis were milled for a non sound decoder. Shell removal: The shell is basically a press fit w/ 4 small nubs on the frame that lock into corresponding positions of the shell. As the units age, I believe that somthing causes the shell to become an extremely tight fit. (plastic shell shrinkage etc? don’t know. So to remove the shell it may require some force and wiggling straight up and off. The last ubit I got, I thought I was going to break the shell or wreck the cab or other detail. Also do be careful of the typical “Kato” bronze truck PU strips. If they are damaged, they can be a bugger to set in the frame nubs properly and allow the truck PU.

Otherwise, these are by far some of the best running and pulling Switchers that I’ve seen.