Hello guys, I was wondering what everyone’s opinion was of KATO Unitrak. I am thinking of converting my layout to all KATO track. Anyone have a lot of experience with this track?
I have a 26ft x 13ft that is all unitrack. I love it for ease of installation and almost maintence free. I also use DCC so no problems there.
Oh that is is N scale.
Try it you will like it.
I had a temporary layout built using N scale Kato Unitrack. For that use, it is excellent.
I would be reluctant to use Unitrack for a permanent layout , precisely because it is sectional track. The curves are designed to a specific number of fixed radii, with no possibility of easements, the straight sections are available in limited variety of lengths. There is also a very limited variety of turnout sizes and crossings, and quite frankly, the mechanisms of Kato turnouts are not terribly realistic in appearance. What’s more, I’ve found Kato track geometry ends up requiring the use of one ore more of their expandable sections to make the track fit properly.
For a permanent layout, I would much prefer code 55 flextrack on cork roadbed, that can be curved to fit specific situations, that will allow for easements leading into curves, and for cutting a length of track to fit a specific spot, and not to have to cobble a very short/very long length out of sections. I prefer the scenic possibilities of flextrack to the appearance of Unitrack.
Remember, each joint between a section is a potential point of failure.
For a temporary layout, Kato track is the best around; but for a permanent, fully scenicked layout, I prefer the more traditional methods.
A last point: Kato track is pricey, and I’d be reluctant to use glue products that might make the track difficult or impossible to salvage.
I am building an N scale layout using Kato Unitrack. It is very reliable and offers a great variety of radii and track lengths.
Aside from the somewhat high price, its biggest drawback is the plastic look of it. To get rid of that, I spray paint the track with a dark brown color, using a rattle can, and then carefully ballast the track. The result is amazing:
Looks good.
Thanks for the great advice. I guess I forgot to mention one thing in the initial post. I have a inside lead at a hobby store, that is about to go out of business. I have shopped at this store for years, so they are going to give it to me for pennies on the dollar, and they have “boxes” of new KATO track in stock.
Michael Fifer is building a very nice layout using Kato Unitrack.
Follow his thread here
I’m using HO Unitrack on my new layout (begun about four years ago) and doubt I would ever use anything else. I’ve been in model railroading since 1971 and done sectional track, cork roadbed, flextrack, “Ribbon Rail” upsom board roadbed, the works, and Unitrack is the easiest by far to create a good result with. The HO line isn’t as diverse as the N line but there’s enough to work out well. I really like being able to try track ideas out first before committing to them. Once I know the track is right, I use Woodland Scenics risers to raise the track - it’s much easier to do that with Unitrack than traditional roadbed and ballast methods.
BTW the HO track is narrow-profile code 83 and is much more realistic in appearance than the major HO code 83 track brands I’ve tried IMHO.