i’m building my first layout,has anyone used this product for there layout?I’ll be using dcc,is this a good direction to go in?any photo’s of other layouts using this product and or tips would be greatly appreciated!Can you use both unitrack and atlas code 83 together,on the same layout?thank’s.
I don’t know about HO scale…but Kato’s N scale line includes a “transition” track. This allows you to connect Unitrack to regular track.
BTW, MR built a 4x8 layout using Unitrack back in the early 1990s. I think those articles were later reprinted in one of the Kalmbach books.
The thing I like about Kato Unitrack is that the remote turnouts have switch machines concealed within the turnout. So, no exposed switch machines or need for under layout mounting.
chiefer, I’m building a 16’x12’ layout using HO scale kato unitrack. Yes, you can connect it to atlas code 83 or any code 83 track for that matter with regular rail joiners. You just have to pull out the kato unijoiner. I am also using atlas flextrack for my turntable area and Micro Engineering bridge track for my bridges.
I use Digitrax DCC with it and the electrical conductivity seems excellent - no problems. Here are a few pics of my layout under contruction with unitrack:
I did a whole bunch of research on track about 6 months ago and I decided on unitrack hands down. The turnouts have the switch machines built-in, the roadbed is already built-in, pre-made feeder tracks for hooking to DCC, and track laying is a snap.
Many folks here think unitrack is a sort of cheat but I don’t agree. Some people don’t think it looks as good as flextrack but after ballasting a test section of unitrack, I don’t agree. Others say metal wheels clack too much on any sectional track (not just unitrack) but again I disagree. In fact, after using it a bit, I find it more realistic that way. Some detractors will say it is too expensive. Again I disagree. After my research, I determined it is really no more expensive than flextrack with cork. And the time issue is a whole other story. I built a layout with flextrack 12 years ago and HATED it. As far as automated turnouts go, it is probably cheaper than any other method. I got my turnouts (#6) for $35 apiece with switch motor included. You could get say a Peco turnout with a tortoise switch machine for just over $30 but you still have to mount and connect the tortoise!
I didn’
[quote user=“Surfstud31”]
chiefer, I’m building a 16’x12’ layout using HO scale kato unitrack. Yes, you can connect it to atlas code 83 or any code 83 track for that matter with regular rail joiners. You just have to pull out the kato unijoiner. I am also using atlas flextrack for my turntable area and Micro Engineering bridge track for my bridges.
I use Digitrax DCC with it and the electrical conductivity seems excellent - no problems. Here are a few pics of my layout under contruction with unitrack:
I did a whole bunch of research on track about 6 months ago and I decided on unitrack hands down. The turnouts have the switch machines built-in, the roadbed is already built-in, pre-made feeder tracks for hooking to DCC, and track laying is a snap.
Many folks here think unitrack is a sort of cheat but I don’t agree. Some people don’t think it looks as good as flextrack but after ballasting a test section of unitrack, I don’t agree. Others say metal wheels clack too much on any sectional track (not just unitrack) but again I disagree. In fact, after using it a bit, I find it more realistic that way. Some detractors will say it is too expensive. Again I disagree. After my research, I determined it is really no more expensive than flextrack with cork. And the time issue is a whole other story. I built a layout with flextrack 12 years ago and HATED it. As far as automated turnouts go, it is probably cheaper than any other method. I got my turnouts (#6) for $35 apiece with switch motor included. You could get say a Peco turnout with a tortoise switch machine for just over $30 but you still have to mount and connect the to
Thanks Driline. I have a couple of pics that are more recent but it’s just the rest of the trackwork - no scenicking yet. I got a loooong way to go. Here are a couple of the most recent pics.
Click pics to enlarge
This is an overall picture:
This is Brewster Yard:
This is Nepperhan Industrial District:
I have kato unitrack, for both HO and N, and love it. Peronally, I don’t like flextrack. This stuff is top quality, you won’t be dissapointed!
I agree with all who say Unitrack is top quality! I LOVE model railroading…and I love that hand-made realistic ballasting that those “professional rivet counting” types are able to do on the layout.
But, I have found that hand-ballasting and laying turnouts is lots of hard work …plus you MUST get it perfect or else…and i LOVE to use my model railroad not have stress and frustration with it. the HO Kato Unitrack lets you forgo the tedious hand lay and hand ballast (yes, you can still ballast over it if you like).
The Kato wiring system within the turnouts saves numerous headaches and back-aches. I too researched all the track systems and find the Kato system is price-competitive when you consider that your precious TIME is worth MONEY too.
And heck, for a track-and-roadbed together ,the Kato stuff blows the E-Z track , Atlas roadbed or the Life-like stuff out of the water. The only track/roadbed that comes close is Fleischmann of Germany and that is lots more $$ and hard to find.
I recommend that you stick with the Kato stuff thru out your railroad …dont mix it with others–the Kato extra expense initially will save you thousands of headaches in the long run!
Warm Regards,
Tom M.
P.s. who is not working for Kato but just a happy customer!
woops! I forgot to mention one VERY IMPORTANT point about the Unitrack----the Kato system is the only system in the world with the BEST rail joiners for electrical contact. You dont need to solder the tracks together! Hows that for saving hours and hours with the traditional flex track way !
The E-Z Bachmann system and others have a much weaker contact thus you would have to solder.&
Yea that really does look good surf. A nice “Clean” looking layout. The unitrack makes it look really professional.[tup]
I’m using Atlas TrueTrack and am getting good electrical conduct between sections. But, if I had to do it over again I would use Kato, mainly for the concealed switch machines, and because it is simply superior to other similar products.
Another happy Kato user. As another said, the connectors are THE BEST IN THE WORLD BOTH ELECTRICALLY AND MECHANICALLY - by a wide margin. And the most extensive ballast-included line in terms of curve radii and varying lengths of straight track. All the line needs is curved turnouts and a couple more crossovers.
i would like to thank those who helped with my unitrack questions on my layout.the pics are awesome and keep them coming!surfstud31 your layout looks like it’s going to be amazing.i think unitrack is the solution to my problems thanks again!
Question for N scale Unitrack users (and I’ll post this in the “N” Crowd also)…
Are the Kato N scale #6 turnouts DCC-friendly. or do they require modification?
Thanks… This is for a staging yard I’m planning.
Yes, it is. The book is called “HO train layout from start to finish”
BTW, I am building this layout…
I’m not sure if they are DCC friendly or not, but NO turnout requires any special modification for DCC. My layout is living proof of that. I’ve got 12 year old shinohara turnouts on my layout that work just fine. Plus I’ve got a new DCC freindly shinohara turnout. It makes no difference to me.
I did a lot of research but apparently MRC accessory decoders have different modes of operating turnout including twin-coil of the Kato or Bachmann. So you can use DCC to control those turnout and MRC advance can even use the ‘route’ function to select a route with the turnout automatically selected the right way and I think the Super Chief have route function also.
Does anyone know if the Kato adaptor track will accept Bachmann’s EZ-Track? It looks like it will only take Atla style track though…[%-)]
What size radii are you using on that double-tracked (main and siding?) “turnback” loop at the front of the picture? I want to use the 31 1/8" radius curves, but they don’t seem to offer other sizes close enough to create realistic spacing. Using the 28 3/4" radius curves produces 2 3/8" centers. Seems a bit big, but if that’s what you have, it looks good to me! I was hoping for closer to 2", but I can live with slightly bigger if I must…
I have no problems with any of my 62 N scale #4 or #6 turnouts in DCC. But I am dropping feeders every 2nd rail joiner (so every section has a feeder at at least 1 end) using the solderless “Bryan9” system to ensure excellent conductivity without paying for expensive feeder track or feeder joiners (which use too small wire anyways).