Is this any good to get a base coat? I’ll be stripping the markings and paint off some rolling stock. Krylon Fusion has an exact paint match for what I’m looking for. If I strip and prep correctly has anyone had good results with Krylon? My guess is several light coats to get the paint even. Apply the new markings, seal, and dull coat.
I’ve painted some plastic patio furniture with it and it is really tough paint. Sticks really good to plastic. Seems to go on a bit thicker than regular spray paint. Might cover up too much detail.
Try it on an old car or something first.
You read my mind. I have some older plastic junk box cars lying around. Perfect for screwing up on and stripping if necessary.
[#ditto]
It does go on thicker. Probably too thick for modeling but give a try on something expendable. It can’t hurt.
Karl
“G” scalers with outdoor layouts use Krylon to paint buildings and rolling stock. I know I have. Its good for that size stuff but I have never used it on “O” or “HO”. NOTE they do not use the Fusion colours , just regular Krylon. The red primer is really close to box car red and tuscan red. There are two shades of red primer.
Dave
It’s good paint as long as you don’t try to paint it over an enamel finish. I like to build my own control panels with track diagrams on them. What i do is paint a piece of hard board a flat white color, then use masking tape to mask over the white into the diagram of my track routes and then paint it all black. Then i’ll remove the tape and have a great diagram of my track routes that i then drill out holes into the board and mount DP/DT toggles at each turnout on the diagram to then wire up and operate my tortoise machines once it’s mounted as part of the fascia.
I made a big mistake one time though. I used a spray-on enamel white paint then went over it with the Krylon fusion paint. Immediately the black fusion paint started cracking up exposing the white paint underneath because it won’t stick to enamel. Needless to say, I had to strip the hard board down to bare wood again and start all over. This time, I used the krylon fusion for both colors and it turned out good…chuck
It works great on plastic handrails, I have used it without a problem on them but I would’nt use it on any shell.
Are you talking about the Fusion paint specifically or Krylon in general. I’ve used the regular Krylon for lots of things including the ultra-flat black as primer. The Fusion paint is a whole other world. If you read the directions carefully you will find it wants plastic surfaces pretreated before painting (with mineral spirits as I recall). I used it for a plastic garden trellis as the base coat and then painted over with the normal house paint. That was 3 years ago and it is already chipping. Of course this is outside in the weather so I am guessing it would last much longer in a controlled climate environment. The Fusion paint is very heavy and seems to be very reactive to plastic (as one would expect).
I used Krylon Fusion paint on the white plastic cellar windows in my new house. That was maybe 3 years ago. The paint is close to the ground so it takes a beating from rain, snow and stuff being blown around. Not a problem yet. I am not sure how it would work as a modle paint; it has a gloss finish.
I painted this N scale box car three years ago with fusion, and it did a really,really good job.
very opaque, and the can has a very fine fan spay head, didn’t hide any details, and left a very smooth gloss finish ready for decals.
as you can see by the pics the plastic is a very dark blue, and the beige covered it in the first coat.
click on pic to enlarge
didn’t hide the details at all
I also used it for the end marking on this hopper
I recall the Fusion paint spray can.
It did a good job with several light coats on my Atlas RS1 handrails where the plastic was of a special kind and did not accept paint too well.
I use Tamiya Sprays for really difficult jobs now because they accept temperature swings better and perform very consistently.
I second the fusion’s spray head performance, it had a nice fan pattern that was particularly good for model work.
Would I continue to use Fusion? Well… I dont know because currently Model Master and Tamiya solves my paint problems very well at this time.
The thing I say is the important about spray paint of any kind is to lay down a light coat where the paint drys just as it lands on the surface. When the surface starts to cover, stop. Because if you try to really cover it, you risk burying all the detail like rivets etc in a gigantic pond of paint.
My painting is slow and takes a week for several coats. Your estimates, my plan.