KW Transformer and a whistle problem

Hi,

I have a Lionel type KW transformer which seems to work well in all regards except it will not operate the whistle in my 2046W tender. I also have a Lionel type S transformer and the whistle will run with that. Is there such a thing as a “weak whistle controller” and if so is there anything that can be done about it? If not has anyone got any suggestions?

Thanks for any insite you might be able to share

Allen

Allen,

You probably need a new whistle rectifier disk; they are often for sale on e-bay or purchased through a Lionel part supplier. The KW is easily disassembled, and the whistle rectifier is easily seen once the case is off. Exploded diagrams are available by searching this or the other O Gauge forum.

  • Terry

Try the transformer with another whistling tender before replacing what I think are called diodes or add the Lionel separate whistle button to the hot wire side to track. Try cleaning stuff on the inside of the transformer housing and that may help. Older transformers have the whistle feature go out before any other problem occurs.

I have a post war ZW that is acting a little finicky with the whistle control button, waiting for it to go fully before replacing it.

Lee F.

I was thinking it might be the rectifier and I have looked at the diagrams on Olsons web site. What i havn’t figured out yet, and which doesn’t show clearly, is how the wiring is run in and out of the disk. Also not sure what the rectifier resistor does and whether to replace that also.

Cleaning was the first thing I tried. That probably is the reason everything else works. Unfortunatly I don’t have another tender that works (That is a whole other issue that I will save for another time!). I would probably add a whistle controller as the other funtions seem to be fine. I just hate to not have the thing working properly. Thanks

Replace both parts and you should have a usable KW for a long time. Why repair it twice when you have it open the first time?

Lee F.

Don’t have the part number but a new one from Radio Shack works better than the old Lionel type.

The resistor shunts some current around the rectifier when the control is fully operated, reducing the amount of DC put out and restoring some of the AC component lost because of the rectifier. It could fail, but not likely. The rectifier is a likely culprit if the whistle doesn’t work; but check the switch contacts. If they are dirty or bent, your switch may be skipping over the full-rectification position that was intended to operate the whistle relay and going directly to the partial-rectification, low-DC position that was intended only to keep the relay closed once it had operated.