I started to lay some of the flex track for my new N layout. As I normally do, I draw a line on the foam for my cork and then I put a line on the cork for the track. However even though I make every precaution to make sure that the track is straight, when I look down the track versus from the side there are some waves in it.
To correct this I grabbed by laser level and shot it down the length of the run I was doing and placed the laser line on one of the rails. As long as I make sure laser stayed on the rail the track was now straight as an arrow…
A straightedge works great, too!
Or you could just let it wander a tiny bit like the prototype sometimes does.
Yup…I use a 3 foot straight edge. No ‘eyeing’ or guessing involved.
David B
[#ditto]
I do the same thing, works great!
TheK4Kid
This technique uses an inexpensive laser level.
I can’t remember where I saw this idea, but it was on one of these forums. Great idea, I think.
The blocks on the track help clarify the sight picture.
Just my 2 cents
A word of warning on those Lasers.
NEVER EVER EYEBALL DOWN THE BEAM INTO THE UNIT!!! Those lasers DO have the ability to pernamently destruct your vision or damage it.
I was taught to use a painted reel that holds string in construction. Nail one end down and drag it tight at the other. Pick up the center and snap it loose, the tension on that string when done right will provide you a perfect straight painted line.
I prefer the laser. I usually warn the spouse NOT to enter the closed door to the room because the laser COULD be pointed that way.
Now, this appeals to my thinking. Just watch a video or a real train moving down a small town siding etc…I bet it wiggles and sways…but I guess you’d like it straight on the mainline.
I couldn’t figure out how to hold my laser level straight in my wobbly grasp…but then saw that they have tripod-mounting tapped holes on the edge…just put it on a camera tripod.
Also, Micro Mark sells an alignment tool that is like a long straight edge, but it is even better in that is sits down between the rails and can be used to actually move the entire length at once into a straight position.
I kind of like the run-down branchline look. The rail is too heavy, though. Maybe some code 40 in HO scale…
Brad
If you are laying the track using adhesive the best trick I have found is to get the track down reasonably straight and then run a RibbonRail straight track gauge down the track before the adhesive sets up.
You can see the waves disappear. The process is fast. Lay the track, slide the gauge, and wow - the track is straight.
See: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/170-5 for an example. This is a 5" HO guage. They also make a 10" (I use both depending upon the situation) and in N guage. Walthers is out of stock but places like Caboose Hobbies have them in stock.
Good luck,
-John
Brad,
But using code 40 would be the definition of un prototypical. Code 100 sounds more like it to me. Except that it is harder to lay crooked rail with code 100. Heck use 83, I don’t seem to have any trouble at all getting wigglers.
Joe Daddy
You’re all right…mainlines tend to be layed and maintained better so there is less “wandering”. Sidings and branchlines though…