Recently I was at a train show and looked at several Ho layouts and those built from modules.
I noticed in the straightaways that the tracks were not real straight on some modules.
So as I am laying flex track on my new layout ( I have some long straightways) I am using a large builders square, lining the track up on both side of the rails ,placing it on the outside of the rails, lightly rresting on the ties, and slowlly working the rails up against it as I glue them down with latex caulk.
Gives me arrow straight rails!
Anyone ever tried this before?
I have several shorter pieces of aluminum straight stiock I can use for shorter straightaway sections of track.
Everytime I look at real rails, they never seem straight to me. I eye-ball my n-scale flex and sort of enjoy watching the train shift slightly as it goes along.
Sounds like a good method that I could have used. But, like Jason-Train, and in a backwater sub yard like mine, a little wiggly and wobbly adds something to the setting to my eye.
I would agree that for modern roads with heavy steel and fast heavy trains, the rails should be straight and superelevation would look good if not overdone.
That would certainly work fine–when I start laying my flextrack (? knows when that’s ever going to be) I’ve actually planned on using the Ribbonrail guages–they make two straight ones, one long and the other shorter (don’t remember the exact dimensions) and they have curved guages from 15 to 48 inches as I recall. Your carpenters square will work well too–the idea of having the straight or curved guage between the rails just has made sense to me. Of course the guages are going to add cost if you already have the carpenter’s square. “eyeballing” the straight sections seems to work fine also–our tracklayers at my club usually do it that way and any derailment problems we have certainly aren’t related to this issue. I guess I still prefer to have the tracks as straight as possible, though, just my preference.
So far I have done the outside line on my layout ( 34 inch radius -HO), and used 1/8 inch wide by 1/16 inch thick shim cut from a sheet of 1/16 by 4inch by 48 inch balsa with a balsa stripper.
I then placed the balsa strip under the outer edge of my ties lifting them 1/16 inch, and thebalsa strip bends easily around the radius. I then used Elmers white glue to hold the balsa shim strip in place, pinning it into place until the glue set.
Then layed down grey latex caulk and placed my track into it.
I used the method shown by Joe Fugate in one of his downloadable videos in pdf form from MRR magazine.
Joe recommended grey latex caulk since it mtaches my ballast like his does.
I then ran my BLI J1 around both curves slowly and checked for any problems.
The J1 test run went fine on both curves, no derailments.
I am planning one additional main line all the way around tables.
My tables are 6 ft by 8 ft with two inch thick pink foam supported by 1x3 inch framework on 16 inch centers, and a 1x4 outer frame.
Table height is 45 inches from the floor.
I can easily reach to the center, as I am 6 foot tall.
The 6 foot width gave me the opportunity to have decent radius curves at both ends, and plenty of space for other things I’d like to have.
Next big project will be instaalling my Walthers 130 foot turntable, and it’s roundhouse and engine service facility for steamers.
Walthers is taking order for your loco, the former Life Like Heritage Series Proto 2000. See the link below. I would look around though. You are sure to find it more cheaply at internethobbies, for sure at trainworld, maybe caboose hobbies, modeltrainstuff, the list goes on.
Edit- http://www.internethobbies.com/920-31675.html to see an example of a substantially better offer. No. 765 is coming, according to Walthers, but you can likely advance reserve at most of these places for a price closer to that at internethobbies.
One of the best ways to get flex track straight is to use a laser level. This photo shows how my friend Dale Schultz uses a laser to align flex tracks.
I bought some lengths of 1/2 x 1/2 inch extruded aluminum angle at HD for this. The advantage is that you can pin it down at either end and then force the ties flush to it. I also like the laser level idea since I have one.
Since I lay my track with acrylic caulk, which gives me some fudge time, I use a plain wooden yardstick. Lay 1 foot alongside existing trackwork, then line the track with the remaining 2 feet.
I’ve been using Medina1128’s method which works pretty good but I’m sure going to try TheK4Kid’s laser level idea next time. The last time I used my laser level was to mount the brackets for the around the wall portion of the layout.
I just click and drag along the web link to high-light it. Then go to the Edit drop down menu at the top of the page and click on COPY. Then click on the web address line so that your cursor is at the end of the address that is currently shown. Go back to the Edit drop down menu again and click on PASTE. Then hit enter. It works every time for me, even on this address. Great idea, by the way. [8D]
It probably took you much longer to read how to do it than it takes to do it.
I used a 4ft carpenter’s level ( one without end caps! ) to butt the ties up against. Whether you glue or nail the track doesn’t matter, but have some solvent on hand if gluing to clean the level. Then before you call it a day, use your lady-friend’s vanity mirror to sight along the rails and do final tweaking. The mirror effectively gives you twice the rail-length to see the wows. Don’t use the magnifying-side as it introduces distortion…
You can see vertical pitches if you have a small light in the far distance to watch its reflection off the railheads.
I got one sitting on my tool pile… only problem is that it is destructive to human eyes and it is exceedingly hazardous in my opinion so it hardly ever gets used.
Now I have a reason to use it but worry alot about reflected laser energy etc off those shiney rails.
I found using a laser level very useful. First I used it for laying down my roadbed then used the level for my track. It came out very good and am happy with the results.