Can someone tell me the best way to lay track across a bridge? Do you buy the bridge track? Or just lay a piece of flex track? This is the bridge i am using. Thankshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Metal-HO-Scale-Train-Double-Track-Railroad-Girder-Bridge-3-1-2-T-x-15-L/114670952578
Bridge track models the heavier tie structure required when laid on the bridge deck without ballasting. Another technique was to lay regular ballasted track into concrete troughs set onto the bridge deck. ME bridge kits come with those moulded “concrete” bridge troughs if you wished to model this version.
Maybe other methods were used but bridge track models unballasted track found on all types of railroad bridge.
I think bridge track would be the way to go with that bridge. You could just lay regular flex for now just to get it up and running for now and swap it out down the road.
My favorite product is Micro-Engineering’s code 83 bridge flex track, but that is out of stock almost everywhere right now.
Central Valley bridge ties work very well.
I have also “hand laid” track on stained wooden bridge ties, and that is pretty easy to do.
Unless your bridge model has a ballasted deck, normal flex track will not look right, like in this picture. I posed this picture with normal Atlas code 83 flex, and it is obviously not right.
I have done it both ways. It depends on how prototypical you want to be.
When I built the Micro Engineering Tall Steel Viaduct I used the bridge track that was included in the kit. It was actually two kits and was going to be in a prominent location so I went for the realism, expecially since the track sits on the top and is very obvious being almost eye level.
I also have two of the Walthers truss bridges supported by a center pier. They are similar to the one you bought. Back in those days my budget was very tight so I just layed flex track accross them.
I never really look at it and think it is wrong, but if I was building it today I would probably use bridge track. On the other hand I have no intention of changing it now.
For most people regular track is fine if painted, if you rivet count it is not.
Yes, once you set out with the flex track, I doubt there’s reason to change for a small area. I have tw different bridges and both have code 83 flex track over them.
I was curious about the difference(s) between regular track and bridge track. Earlier thread for anyone’s interest: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/77265.aspx
I used the walthers Bridge track, it worked well for me.
Is that still available?
I have one piece of Walthers/Shinohara bridge track, and they are going for $60.00 or more on eBay now.
-Kevin
Hello All,
Are you planning on using this bridge as a single track or double track, as listed?
As far as aftermarket manufacturers’ bridge ties and stringers have you looked at Central Valley Model Works?
They have them for code 70/83, 83/100, dual gage, and narrow gage.
All are listed as “In Stock”.
Hope this helps.
Micro Engineering or Central Valley bridge track work well, and are easy to use.
DSC02751 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
This truss bridge uses Central Valley ties, which are self-gauging and have spikes that you bend into place over the base of the rail. https://www.cvmw.com/bridges.htm
Lakeview Wash 2 by wp8thsub, on Flickr
This girder bridge shows another option, handlaying on wood ties (bridge ties are available from several sources or you can cut your own from 8" x 8" strip wood). I drilled holes for small spikes to maintain alignment.
Bridge track in model railroading has no real functional value. But, it looks great prototypically, so I use it on all my bridges. It looks great, although it is pricey. I recommend it to you for that reason.
You could use also use standard flextrack and use smaller scale rail for the bridge guard rails by applying adhesive to bind the smaller scale rail to the flextrack ties.
Rich
Rich, I hope you won’t be miffed if I point out that your two statements are contradictory. We’re modelling. We create an illusory ‘railroad’. So your second statement is important, and true. If that is so, it contradicts what your first statement says. Mechanically, very true; there is no real need for the extra beefiness under the rails. But as your second statement suggests, the first can’t be true at the same time. [:)]
I hear ya, Crandell, but I don’t view the two statements as contradictory.
When I say that bridge track in model railroading has no real functional value, I am referring to the fact that something like Walthers Shinohara Code 83 bridge track does nothing to prevent a derailed locomotive or train from falling off the track, whereas real bridge track does serve that purpose on the prototype. Or, as you say, mechanically, there is no real need for the extra beefiness under the rails on a model railroad.
Rich
I have built a few sections of bridge track by removing the ties from Atlas flex track, cutting the webbing between the ties and sliding them back on. I started this because that part of the layout was Code 100, but continued to the Code 83 track. I’m happy with all of it.
Hi sickdog5,
Welcome to the forums! [#welcome]
Walthers is offering Code 83 bridge track again. Each 36" length comes with two end pieces. It is supposed to arrive by April 18th:
https://www.walthers.com/code-83-nickel-silver-bridge-track-1
They also offer separate end pieces in pairs if you are doing more than one bridge.
https://www.walthers.com/code-83-nickel-silver-bridge-track-2
Dave
Now, isn’t that ridiculous?
At one time, Walthers Shinohara bridge track came as one piece with the converging guard rails at each end.
Then, later, the bridge track package included the bridge track plus two separate end pieces with the converging guard rails.
Now, you buy the bridge track and then you also have to separately purchase the the two end pieces with converging guard rails.
So, 50 bucks for a single bridge track. That’s why I mentioned earlier that the bridge track is pricey.
Rich
Edit Note: This third version of Walthers bridge track does include the two end pieces. See later replies for clarification.
If I am reading it correctly, the 36" piece of Walthers bridge track comes with two end sections. You can buy two additional end pieces seperately and make 2 sections up to 18 inches.
Still pricey. Hopefully ME code 83 bridge track will be available again soon.
-Kevin
Not to my knowledge, and I guess I shouldn’t be surprised that they are selling for that much on eBay. I had no idea!