I’m not real happy on attaching stuff to a block wall, especially in a basement. You can shoot 2x2s on with a Hilti or use cut nails into the mortar jopints, but you run the risk of losing watertight (heh) integrity each time.
You can bore holes for expansion bolts or molys, but that’s a ton of work and a ton of drill bits, even if you rent a hammer drill.
You could build benchwork and “fix” it tight to the wall with wood wedges (at mortar joints to avoid loading the block corewalls) on the ends, but said benchwork would need to run from floor to backdrop heigth, at which point, my favorite option looks efficient and more productive.
I’d shoot (Hilti) a treated 2x3 plate to the concrete floor, plumb up at both ends and airnail a 2x2 plate to the bottoms of the joists, then measure (individually) 2x2 studs to fit on 16 inch centers. Get a tube of PL400 and glue a shim between each stud and the block wall at mid heigth to give a little more support. Glue or screw the stud to the shim too.
Now you have half your “benchwork” built, you can rock the whole face, rock above the layout backdrop, or just leave the studs exposed. The rest of your benchwork coulkd be shelf brackets, horizontal arms scabbed to the studs, with or without diagonal braces underneath, (I’d use braces unless your doing all foam layout base), or fully braced build out benchwork with a plywood surface.
Powerwise, access to one 20 amp line out to be more than you need, unless some big customers also access that circuit. Big customers use big motors or glow red hot, or both, beware the dryer.
If you can, look at incandescent lighting, especially if you are into photography. Florescents throw an odd color cast into images that’s hard to get rid of. You can get special daylight incandescent bulbs that deal with that problem before it starts. Be aware that UV will fade scenery over time.
There’s going to be many many many trips between workbench and layout, workbenc