The layout that I’m planning and trying to get started on will have to reside in an unfinished storage room in our basement(thanks to my wife). So, it’s cinder block walls and insulation basically. So, seeing how I’m a newbie to the hobby, if I decide to go with a “around the walls” layout of say 30" depth, will I be able to use a backdrop effectively? I know people usually attach the benchwork to the wall somehow in a “finished” area, don’t they? I’m trying to see if this type of wall will have an impact on my benchwork and/or backdrop. Hope this makes sense, what I’m trying to say!
It’s time to take 1 giant step backward. You’ll find that unfinished basements are very dirty, and that the dirt gets on your layout. Step 1 is to put up drywall. If you have cinderblock all the way from floor to ceiling, you can get away with painting the block below the layout level, but putting up drywall above will give you a good surface you can paint a backdrop on directly.
Don’t forget the floor and ceiling, too. If you need to access plumbing and wiring, then consider a drop ceiling. It’s not expensive, and it goes up quickly. Think about good lighting while you’re at it, and also electrical outlets before you do the drywall.
Finally, do something about the floor. If it’s concrete, it will put up a lot of dust. Garage floor paint is good enough, but just do something about it.
Dust, dust, dust. You’ll have dust from the cinder blocks, dust from the bare concrete floor, dust from the ceiling, and dust and other stuff coming off the insulation. It’ll be a mess, and will seriously degrade the performance of your layout.
Finishing basement walls is possibly the easiest “major” home improvement anyone can do, and it doesn’t take a lot of time, effort or money. Finishing a basement is also one of the most cost-effective things you can do to raise the value of your home. Add these two things to an overally nicer layout environment, and why wouldn’t you want to finish the space?
Finishing a basement doesn’t take a whole lot of effort. If there’s insulation up, there’s likely already studs up, so all you have to do is hang, mud and paint some drywall. If the studs are up, you don’t even (usually) need a building permit.
If the basement walls and ceiling have studs you can get away with paneling. This will give you a barrier between your layout and the insulation and the cinder block as well as giving you something to attach a backdrop to. As for attaching the layout to the wall, if there are studs, yes it can be done easily. If they are no studs, just cinder block, forget about attaching the layout to the wall and go for a free-standing design. As noted earlier, garage floor paint or outdoor patio paint will work on the floor.
I agree with MisterBeasley. If at all possible finish the room in drywall and put up a ceiling. That will help the most to keep the layout from getting dusty. Painting the floor or having linoleum flooring laid will be a great help also.
As for the backdrop, You do not have to attach it to the walls. I plan to attach mine directly to the layout wich is freestanding. I’ll be using 1/8" masonite with 1x2’s spaced 24" apart. I’m attaching the 1x2’s to each bench prior to placing the bench next to the wall. Once the benches are in place I’ll screw the masonite to the 1x2’s.
You need to seal that basement against water. Maybe not that specific basement but it is a good idea.
Consider a drop ceiling as well because the floor above will rain down dust and drips once in a while.
That unfinished basement is not ready for a layout yet.
When you do plan a railroad down there, people access to the entry/exit is number one. If something was to catch fire down there, the people needs out like, instantly.
Depending on their construction and on the type of soil in which they are placed, and upon perimeter drainage and local rainfall, basements range from very damp to dusty. Most of us seriously consider using a dehumidifier for at least a few months of the year. That has a cash outlay and power consumption costs over time.
You can finish a concrete floor using sealants which will reduce underfoot dust considerably. If you want to get fancy without resorting to manufactured floor coverings, ranging from mats to rugs, try the Rustoleum Fleckstone products.
Since you have an “insulated” basement series of walls already, maybe some poly vinyl covering for a vapour barrier and some gyproc would be a good investment now. You needn’t finish it right away…you can chip away at it over a year or two, but at least taped gyproc will afford you more protection from bugs and other irritants that tend to get on one’s layout. Additionally, and not to be discounted, gyproc will help to brighten up the surroundings…more-so with a coat of white primer paint. [;)]
Having constructed two layouts now, I agree with those responders above. Cave in and do the right things while you have the opportunity and you will be rewarded. For example, lighting: get it right, and you will enjoy well-lit operating sessions no matter where on the layout you decide to focus on any one day. Cheapen up on only one or two banks of cheapie fixtures and you may find yourself needing extra plug-in lamps to illuminate stuff.
From your lips to my wife’s ears, but unfortunately, if I tell her I want to finish that room to put trains in there, I’ll get laughed at. She’s not keen on the whole “train hobby” idea anyway, and getting a concession to start a layout in the “dungeon” was a big step. I highly doubt spending a couple grand to finish that area for trains will going over well. So, under those conditions, I figured some space is better than no space.
Seriously, if money and wives are a problem, at least paint the floor and seal the walls with some sort of dry-lock paint. If you have to go free standing , put leveler bolts in the leg bottoms to help level out the table.
I’m currently painting the walls of my basement with “Dry-Lok” to water seal it. You’ll probably also need to patch the joint between the floor and the walls, over time there always seems to be an opening there that can let water in. There are similar waterproofing products you can use on the floor, then I’m planning on adding rubber matting as used in workout rooms and such.
FWIW I had a model RR in an “unfinished” basement (concrete block and poured concrete floors) in my old house for many years. I had a fairly large opening along the top of the blocks and needed to cover that to stop dust and such from falling on the layout area, otherwise I really never had trouble.
BTW as noted, ‘finishing’ the basement can add to the value of your house - and therefore, add to your property taxes!! I’ve heard stories of a few modellers “unfinishing” their basement after their property taxes went way up after an inspection.
I built a new home in 2000 and chose not to finish the basement. I put UGL Dryloc on the walls (2 coats) and vinyl flooring on the floor. That was it. I do get stuff dropping from the floor joists on the layout. I run G scale and it does not effect my operation. I have to vacuum up the stuff several times a year.
Having finished 3 basements in previous homes. I have found out depending on the community you live in, they may have different rules on what is considered “a finished basement.” Two homes in the same town had drywall walls and ceilings, but painted floors. To be considered finished, the floor had to be carpeted. No increase in my property taxes.
The third home had drywall walls and suspended ceiling with painted floors. Here they wanted drywall ceilings and vinyl or carpeted floors to be considered a finished basement.
Check with your town’s building inspector to see what they consider a finished basement. By just painting the floor and finishing everthing else may save you on your property taxes.
Some sort of a ceiling will help keep the layout a lot cleaner. A dehumidifier is a must if the basement is damp or unheated. Moisture leads to wood expansion and that can cause track problems. Which in turn leads to being unsatisfied with the layout and the hobby.
My wife and I moved into a place with a 33x35 foot basement (“Oh no! You get 1/2 of the basement for your trains”). I had to make a choice: bigger layout or new wife. I DO miss her, though… [:D]
Not to take issue with the suggestions with finishing this storage area before constructing you layout, but a storage are is typically lacking in electrical power outlets. It is a lot easier to install outlets and their wiring BEFORE you put any kind of paneling or drywall. Code requirements dictate outlet spacing no less than twelve feet apart.
Tell her you want to finish the basement as a family room/den/activity room/party space (Whatever you think will go over better) with a train that runs around the perimeter of the room on a shelf. There’s no need to mention that the “shelf” will be 2-3 feet wide and at shoulder height, really…
Part of why I bought my current house was because there was a finished 12’x24’ room in the basement, although I had to rip out the drywall on one wall to inspect the foundation. As long as I have the sheetrock down I’m going to add insulation: that side gets a bit warm in summertime. I, too, went with the “den” argument: the middle of the room will remain open and eventually be usable as recreation space that just happens to have trains running around the edge of the room.
