As the header says I have a LL E7 somehow the rear coupler assembly is gone. Where can I get a replacement? I also have a LL E8 so I assume they would be similar.
Thanks
Mike
I think the Kadee 455 conversion has all you need for the E7, the E8 seems to be a 453. I assume you can buy it if you have have a well stocked LHS, if not they are for sale on Fleabay
Mike,
I’m assuming HO scale. You also don’t mention what kind of couplers You are using now and it may not be just a plain Life-Like… they don’t show E-units, only F’s. You may have a Life-like Proto 2000. In any event…take a look at this Kadee conversion chart and look up Your engine…like I said look for Life-Like Proto 2000 and see if that will work for You OR any others on the list. Most will replace any thing that was there, including draft gear coupler pockets:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/hocc.htm
Good Luck! [:D]
Frank
Not the coupler itself, rather the whole assembly, is missing. On the E8 there is an arm that holds the coupler, that is what I am missing on the E7.Yes it is LifeLike and ho scale.
Mike, I have two of the LL E8/9A locomotives, so I decided to go down to the layout to examine the rear coupler assemblies. The rear coupler assemblies are quite elaborate, much more than a mere coupler box.
Then, I opened the locomotive box and looked at the parts list. There are quite a few parts included in the rear coupler assembly. While there is a part number for the kit, those parts are no longer available now that Walthers has acquired Life Like.
Rich
I’ll take a look at my “spare parts” stock later today. I have cannabalized bunches of L-L E units so I probably have the Z shaped swing parts and IF I can find the tiny bronze centering strip that tucks in behind the pin.
IF I find find 'em I send them to you when I get a chance.
FYI this is what the Kadee swing bracket looks like:
Take care, Ed
Thank you all for your replies. Pardon my ignorance but is the kit above all I need?
Well for one…the kit is for close coupling of the E’s…which means, in most cases, You will need a #26 coupler on the front which does not come in the kit, it comes with a shorter shank coupler, that will only handle 24’’ radius curves…the #26 will handle 18’’ radius curves. The kit comes with the parts that You are missing, so should work fine on the rear. The parts supplied in the kit will do one A-unit front and rear. You may also have to change Your other engine if it is also an A-unit, but You won’t need the kit…You can get just the coupler and it should fit in Your other A or B unit…that’s why I asked what kind of coupler’s You are using now. Click on that link I gave and look at Life Like E7 and see if Yours matches the instructions. Then look at Life Like Proto 2000 #453 and also look at the instructions, to see if it will work for You…just remember it is for close coupling, so the kit will have shorter shank couplers in It…You may have to use a longer shank coupler if Your curve radius is below 24’'. Otherwise they will hit going around a curve when coupled together. There are ways to get them to work, You just need the right combo.
I believe the one’s that Richhotrain has, are not close coupling, unless He changed them…He may have just changed the couplers to Kadee’s…He didn’t say.
Good Luck! [:D]
Frank
The E7 link:
http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/l333.pdf
The E8 #453 link
Hi Frank,
I never experienced any problems with the rear couplers on the LL E8/9a locos, so I never changed out anything. It is all original equipment in my case.
I would offer this advice. If the coupler assembly is completely missing, I would get the Kadee conversion kit since the LL parts kit is no longer available.
Rich
I just checked my stockpile, Mike.
Send me a PM with your address and I’ll send you a couple sets. I have a few of the little bronze centering springs that go just behind the frame pin.
Just curious, were these missing from your engine when you bought it?
Take care, Ed
I sent you a PM.
I bought it used and do not remember if it was there or not. I did not spend much on it so its no big deal but I would like to run it at the club.
Hi, CGW
The two “swing arms” I’m sending you are very slightly different in that one is made to be held on the frame with a plastic, friction-fit pin, the other snaps over two “pips” molded into the frame floor.
A slight design variation by L-L. I don’t recall when the change was made and the Walthers re-tooling may even be different yet.
Either way, ONE of these will work and you’ll know right away. Either your frame has a hole through it or it has a bump for the arm to snap over.
A tiny dab of Walthers Goo or something sticky to hold the little bronze strip centering spring in place while you fit the arm in will make life easier for you.
Good Luck, Ed
Thank you for sending them to me. I have a bunch of LL F3s and a couple of E units. Good runners and I am ok with the Grandkids running them.
Mike
I also have a set of LL E8s needing couplers. Well, to be honest, I just have 1 needing couplers. I can tell where I was when I stopped the hobby 20 years ago.
It looks like the Kadee 453 is discontinued. Should I get the Kadee 33? Does that work for both front and back?
NO in both cases…the 33 is a short shank coupler that came in the #453 kit which is for close coupling of A&B units. You need a longer shank coupler for the pilot #37 will work and for the rear You need a #35 or 27. The kit was suggested to the OP mainly for the coupler/swing pocket parts, that He was missing.
http://www.kadee.com/conv/holist.pdf
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
Brammy, there are several things to consider when picking a Kadee coupler.
The #33 is a plastic, standard head, short centerset shank coupler. It is part of the 30-Series Kadee couplers.
The #33 coupler is plastic, not metal. It is a “standard” head as opposed to a “scale” head. It requires a metal torsion spring as opposed to a "whisker’ coupler which requires no spring.
It is a short shank coupler for close coupling, whereas the #38 coupler is a medium centerset shank coupler for normal coupling or a #36 coupler which is a long centerset shank coupler for greater separation of connecting cars or locos.
The #33 coupler is centerset, meaning that the knuckle is centered on the shank.
If you wish to have a lower knuckle position, you would select an overset shank coupler such as the #35, #32, or #39 depending upon whether you want a short, medium or long shank coupler.
If you wish to have a higher knuckle position, you would select an underset shank coupler such as the #34, #37, or #31 depending upon whether you want a short, medium or long shank coupler.
Rich
Thank you.
This was helpful.
Well they came in the mail Monday. I installed them today went on easily! Thank you so much! The coupler had broken off the arm so parts of it were there.Again thank you.