Coming from northern New Jersey, I have always loved NYS&W’s three GP18’s. They were a rare model from EMD, owned by an obscure shortline (at the time of purchase) and had an attractive yellow and black livery (rather like the VGN)
So when I found an almost pristine Lifelike (China) model of number 1804, I jumped at the chance to buy it second hand. BUT (there’s always a but)
It’s missing it’s rear footboards. Anyone know a source for a spare I could install?
Any instructions are long since gone. How do you get the shell off to clean and lube the mechanism (I know, less is more in this department)? What about the trucks, do the plates on the bottom pry off to allow servicing?
It has X2f couplers. How do I remove them and replace them with Kadees? (I’m thinking “use the Kadee pocket and drill and tap it to attach to the frame with a 2-56 screw and follow the Kadee instructions from there”. It’s just removing those archaic horn-hooks…
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
On all of my Lifelike Proto locomotived Kadees just drop into the coupler pockets secured by the original lid and screw. No adjustments required.
Removing shells varies with the model. Proto 1000 Cab diesels just lift off after spreading the fuel tank shrouds a bit. Hood diesels have screws sometimes partly hidden under the truck ends and easily confused with motor mount screws.
Lifelike Proto GP 20 may be similar? It uses two screws right behind the coupler mount screws to hold that shell on.
Says it clips on with four plastic clips around the motor mount area. To remove you need to release each clip. On my SW9/1200 or S2 you can squeeze the shell a little near those spots to disengage the clips and drop the drive out into one hand as you lift the shell off with the other hand. Looks like for the GP 18 it would work better to turn the locomotive upside down and release the clips with a thin bladed screwdriver prior to dropping the chassis out.
Looks like the coupler boxes may be above the chassis mounts according to the sketches but a Kadee should still clip right in. The #148 whisker coupler should work, or one of the 146 or 147 over or underset.
From what I’ve seen, a couple of cell-phone ‘spudgers’ might be able to release all four clips and let the mechanism slide out.
Easiest solution for the floorboards might be just to scratch build them out of styrene or brass instead of trying to source replacements.
I have fond memories of 1804 switching in Lodi at the Rt. 46 grade crossing (!) lo! these many years ago now. My experience with the Suskie up to that point was tired RS-1s and it was a thrill to see clean,modern, stylish Geep power. (This was in the era when EL was still running 5-Geep consists across the long viaduct over Rt.80 in Fairfield, something now so thoroughly gone I can’t even remember exactly where it was…)
I have bought a number of LL PROTO EMD Engines and Bachmann H-16-44 with missing footboards . I have used Details West part 192. They worked fine. If you search on Ebay HO parts for footboards a few different footboards will come up. I just bought some Atllas foot boards for GP 38s they look like they might work. Although their descriptions say second generation I won’t tell anybody if you won’t.
A number of years back when I purchased these engines I searched footboards , never found any Proto or Bachmann footboards. I suppose you could just make your own from styrene.
I have some B&M GP 18s I could check them to see how I took the shell off ,will try to check tonight.