I have about 6 Lionel 022 switches and when I tested them they all worked flawlessly but as soon as I put them on a layout the didn’t function properly. They flinched like they wanted to move but won’t move. How is this possible?
Did you install insulating pins in the proper rails?
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Yes, check the insulating pins … also, are you using track power or the constant voltage power?
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I am really new to this hobby again. I haven’t used these switches since 1980 but I did restore them to operating condition. I forgot about the insulating pins, these are nylon pins if I am correct? Is there a way to hook up auxilary power instead of using track power?
Hi, RRAddict,
Remember, the insulating pins go in the two inner rails, the ones that ‘V’ together at the frog.
If you are using a transformer with an more than one rheostat like a ZW, just run wire from the un-used ‘A’ post rheostat to the constant voltage plug on each switch. Be sure that the bulbs in the lanterns will handle the voltage from the full open rheostat or they will burn out right after they melt the lantern. The ZW puts out 20+ Volts.
If you must use a second transformer, run wires from the second rheostat’s ‘A’ post to the constant voltage plugs. It is good practice to connect the common posts on each transformer with a jumper. Be sure the transformers have the same polarity by connecting the jumper to one transformer’s ‘U’ post and touching the ‘U’ post on the other before you turn on the power. If there is a spark, the polarity is wrong and you must turn over the wall plug on one transformer. If they have polarized plugs, you are ok. The switch will ground to the outside rail as always.
That’s great thanks to all for the help. Everything is clear now.
The control rails on an 022 turnout are the straight outside rail that goes to the frog and the curved outside rail that does not go to the frog.
Postwar and modern transformers do not have rheostats. They are variable transformers. Copperkettle is referring to one of the variable outputs when he writes “rheostat”.
If you connect transformers together, connect them through their common terminals. For transformers with multiple variable outputs (like the ZW), this is the U terminal. But, for postwar transformers with only one variable output, it is not.
If you are using a second transformer only for powering your 022 turnouts or accessories, you do not have to get it into phase with the track transformer. The instructions above for doing that don’t make sense to me anyway.
copperkettle,
The insulating pins do NOT go into the two inner rails that form a V with the frog. Check srguy’s post. There are drawings at the link which clearly show the location of the insulating pins.
New guy here. What the heck is “the frog”? Explaining some of these terms would be expedient to those not as arcane as die hard modelers
Also, the fiber pin placement is enough to confuse us newbies. Outside rail inside rail, V with different placement recommendations.
Could we once and for all get the CORRECT PIN PLACEMENT FOR THE various turnouts ( I still call them switch tracks!) I don’t mean to sound like a complainer but I just want to see these trains go and work them around the yards more than trouble shooting problems.
BTW my question is, what would make my 022 switch vibrate,chatter without changing its direction? Fiber pins are in the inside rail of straight section. Outside rail of the curved
section. I’ve switched controller wires around with no change. Thanks
The “frog” on a switch is basically the “V” part in the center that ties the rails together, and the term is usually used to also refer to all the extended rails, guards to keep wheels on the rails, etc. On an O22, basically the whole molded raised bakelite section in the center that forms part of the track could be considered the frog. Just to extend switch terminology a little further, the moving rails(that let you change direction) are often called the “points”.
In order for the non-derailing feature to work(I’m making this generic to any 3 rail switch) you need to have a section of outside rail that’s electrically isolated from the others. If the frog of the switch is plastic, often the two inner-most rails are easiest to use. On the O22, for whatever reason, Lionel used the outer rail of the curved section-you can look at the switch and see this from the obvious “break” in the rail.
For your chattering O22-
Does it do it set either direction, or is the problem only in one direction?
Does it do it if you disconnect the remote completely?
If the problem is still there, you may need to dig deeper. Bench test the switch with no track at all connected to it. If it still chatters, something is likely “shorting” the anti-derail rails in the switch. If you have an ohmmeter, start by checking continuity(on the bench) between the two sections of the “broken” outer rail and then the two outside rails of the straight through portion. Actually check continuity all around on all the outside rails-it’s been a while since I’ve played with one to remember the specifics, but they should read either completely open circuit or will have a fairly high resistance.
If you get zero ohms or close to it, you likely have something inside the switch bridging these contacts. Look at the rails carefully and make sure you don’t have an errant wire, track pin, piece of solder, or other detrius that’s making unintentional contact. Remove the switch motor and check continuity on these rails again-if you have ANY and have ruled out external causes, you’ll probably need to pull the bottom plate of the switch and really look at the contacts. It has probably been-no joke-15 years at least since I’ve really been inside one of these and the only ones I even can get to now are the O72 version(which is similar to, but not exactly the same, as the O22) but there are several straps tieing rails together and from what I remember some soldered wires and such. Just make sure everything is clean, that there are no big solder blobs or anything like that bridging something it shouldn’t, or anything else.
I appreciate your kind and detailed response. You’ve given me plenty to investigate. I keep telling myself, “it’s a hobby, there are supposed to be challenges” and now I know what a “frog” is! Thanks!