I recently bought a 2018 steam locomotive at a local train show. Despite running well on the test track provided at the show, the loco shorted out on my own track at home. I opened the engine up, straightened all of the wires, and put it back together. I will now run fairly well when the reversing unit is deactivated, but when I turn reversing on, the loco still struggles to move even itself, and the transformer is showing a short circuit. This is the first time I’ve ever worked with postwar lionel stuff and frankly I have very little idea of how to fix it. Could anyone give me advice on how to get the loco running smoothly?
Let me guess - are you using a PowerMax transformer?
Here is a link to a page from the service manual for the locomotive. First, replace any wiring that is brittle or cracked. Next, take off the brushplate and clean the commutator, brushes and brushplate with naptha, available at a hardware store. Polish the commutator with a pencil eraser. Reassemble the brushplate and brushes, and apply a drop of oil to either end of the armature. Clean the wheels and pickup rollers with the naptha, apply grease to the gears, and apply a drop of oil to the axle bearings. Remove the e-unit and spray the contacts and drum with a plastic safe solvent. Make sure the plunger operates freely and the unit cycles properly. Insure the contacts touch the drum under slight tension, and are not bent, broken or worn through. Reassemble the e-unit, and check the loco again.
Larry
The Lionel die-casts are rugged and durable, They do occasionally fail totally, but if yours is running at all it proably needs some servicing which is doable at most work benches,
If you have had the boiler off and checked the wires, you may want to do that again, and start with running the six wheel motor by itself and test it on your track and see how it runs in that state.
Next, it never hurts to change the brushes and clean the motor as much as possible. Test run it again.
Motors that run well by themselves are being affected by something else.
If the motor does not run well check wires and soldering joints. If you have soldering skills solder new wires to the motor, but only if you can do this as well as factory original.
If the motor runs well after that ,remount the boiler. Sometimes short circuits happen with wires touching some part of the boiler. This has happened most often for me with the smoke unit. If carefully/properly installed the locomotive may run like it’s supposed to.
I’ve never had to do more than what I mention above, not to say there might be other problems with you locomotive.
thank you all for your advice. I am using a low end Lionel transformer that is supplied in most of their newer starter sets. I’ve tested the motor itself and it still struggles to move itself along, and as it does so the transformer shows that a short circuit is occurring. I’ll be completely honest and confess that I don’t know what parts of the motor assembly are the brushes and I am unfamiliar with the proper method of cleaning any of the crucial electrical parts
You are using a PowerMax transformer, the problem is the transformer, not the 2018. The problem with newer transformers and these older trains is that they go into “foldback” current limiting mode too soon and too often compared to older 25 or 30 watt transformers that just have a conventional circuit breaker.
A CW-80, or an old 30-50 watt conventional transformer will run the engine just fine.
I would try and find a different transformer to test it with first or maybe a hobby shop can test it. I have CW-80 that won’t run my 2036 with 5 cars on it.
Just seen Rob’s post and he is correct.
I’m glad to know that it’s most likely the transformer. As I said I’m just starting what I hope to eventually be a somewhat sizable collection of postwar Lionel stuff, so that being said I think a new (old) transformer is in order. Any recommendations as to what transformer I should be looking for? I’d be most interested in getting an old ZW to be honest
ZW’s have plummeted in price, so if you are expanding, might as well get one. Correcting for inflation, they are about half what they cost new in the last year cataloged(1966). A really good one that has been fully serviced should cost you $180 or less, one that might need cleaning and light service(rollers, cord, rectifiers) could be even half of that. Some people that “recondition” ZW’s will even offer 1 year or more warranties.
Thanks for the info, I think I’ll be on the lookout for one. A few more questions regarding my 2018- having the old style smoke unit that takes pellets, I’m seriously considering replacing it. I know that there is a replacement for this unit that takes fluid, the question is would replacing it be a good idea? Also, the engine is in somewhat “played with” condition- there are a few nicks in the paint but other than that and one of the marker light jewels missing, everything’s there and in good shape. My question is should I touch up the paint on the loco, and if I should, what is the best way of going about it to create a high quality result?
If the old smoke unit is still working, you can use liquid smoke fluid in it. Changing out the smoke unit resistor is not necessary.
Touch up the paint with a very small brush. I use an old shoe shine brush to buff in and blend in the paint, and the results were great. I could not tell where the touch up spots were, the blending was so complete.
Larry
Don’t do it. All the element does is melt the pellets, so your existing smoke unit will work just fine with any smoke fluid. The pellet types are much more reliable and last for decades - not so much if you go with a liquid type. Try Mega-Steam fluid - it comes in dozens of aromas.
The 2018 is similar to most die cast steamers of that era. Very rugged. If it runs fine without the reverse unit engaged then I’m thinking the problem is not the transformer although using a more powerful one wouldn’t hurt.
Try taking off the shell and running the engine without it. If it works fine then there is a short against the metal body. Sometimes the terminal on the e-unit where all the wires solder is too close to the body. you may want to bend that closer to the inside of the locomotive minimizing the chances of shorting.
While you have the locomotive apart consider converting the smoke unit to liquid. Conversion kits are available for less than $10 and when converted and used with a good smoke fluid your PW steamer will smoke like crazy.
Don’t do it. All the element does is melt the pellets, so your existing smoke unit will work just fine with any smoke fluid. NO CONVERSION IS NECESSARY. The pellet types are much more reliable and last for decades - not so much if you go with a liquid type. Try Mega-Steam fluid - it comes in dozens of aromas.
Here is my all original 1952 Berkshire(60+ years old) with the original nichrome pellet smoke unit using MegaSteam:
one last question regarding 2018- I have an old tech 4 DC throttle that I don’t use much anymore, would that work with my Lionel locos? I understand that Lionel (and most 3 rail O gauge trains) run on AC, but would using a DC power pack be detrimental to the locomotive?
It will work, although the whistle or horn will sound continuously. Also, the larger Tech 4 packs at 20VA(about 1.3 amps) only have half the power output of a PowerMax Plus. The MRC is not an upgrade by any stretch.
I’m in the process of reassembling the engine and I’ve got all the parts in but one- the part marked “smoke unit assembly” on the service manual. I have no idea how this goes back into the model. could anyone out there explain it or show me how this is supposed to fit in the model?
sorry for the double post. the part is actually the “smoke lever and piston assembly”
While you certainly can use smoke fluid in your postwar pellet type smoke unit, you also get original style smoke pellets. They are being made again by Trainz and are rather easy to obtain.
I have a 2018 with the same grinding and halting problem. Please tell me how to take the engine shell off.