I have a Lionel 2026 that I’m restoring and am wondering if it will operate on a layout equipped with Marx 027 directional switches. This is the older style 2026- it does not have roller type pick-ups.
Which kind of Marx switches are you thinking about? Some have a metal box over the switch machine and some plastic. The former have no real frog nor points, but move long sections of rail, like the Lionel 1121. The latter, which I prefer, work very well but need a little modification. Because of the fat Marx locomotive drivers, they lack guard rails and really need one for the diverging path. It is easy to solder a 2-inch piece of rail alongside the stock rail, opposite the frog. Some that I have bought have even had guard rails glued into place.
Mine are manual. I see a spot where it appears that something was glued between the middle and the right rails on the diverging side but I can’t visualize how, assuming it was a length of rail, it would facilitate operation of a Lionel loco. These were ebay specials that I’ve had a couple years and am just now getting around to putting on a small layout.
The guard rail, whether on a model or a prototype turnout, is there to keep the wheels on the right path as they pass through the frog, where the rails are interrupted to allow the flanges to cross the intersecting rail. Without the guard rail, a flange can “pick” the frog, go to the wrong side of the frog, and derail the train.
The Marx turnouts have small spring-loaded plastic pieces ahead of the frog that are meant to be depressed by the fat drivers to enlarge the flangeways at the frogs. These are not as effective as the solid rails of Lionel turnouts at keeping the wheels on the proper diverging path. So, the centrifugal force of the diverging wheels can more easily squeeze past these gadgets into the much wider Marx flangeway for the non-diverging path. Adding a guard rail, bearing against the back of the opposite wheel, keeps the wheel at the frog from doing this.
You may notice that Lionel turnouts do have plastic guardrails at these points, on both paths. Marx had to leave them out because they also would interfere with fat drivers. A guardrail on the non-diverging path doesn’t hurt anything, but is not nearly as important as one on the diverging path, where the track is curved.
I thank you for your response. Aside from derailing issues, would there be any electrical problems I would need to address? I read somewhere that roller type Lionel pick-ups would hang up in Marx switches but the ones on my 2026 simply rub the center rail.
I once had one of the metal-box type on my layout; and it did have that problem. I replaced it. But the other kind has no problem at all with pickups.
I’ve never had the old style Marx, but the newer plastic top one’s are my personal favorites (after the K-Line low profile). I’ve “skinned the cat” a little differently from Bob - I glue a piece of strip styrene along the outside diverging rail and bevel the ends somewhat, rather than use a spare piece of rail - both accomplish the same thing in keeping the train on track. Mine are longer than they need to be - no real need, just how they ended up.
Marx 034 switch with guide rail:
I don’t recall any problems with either rollers or sliding shoes (like on the 1666 steamers) catching on these switches, post-war or modern motive power.
Thanks for the photo, neighbor! I thought I was the only person in South Carolina that fooled around with toy trains(I live near Lexington).
Two features that I like about the Marx O34 turnouts:
–The omnidirectional signal light gives the same indication viewed from anywhere in the room.
–The solenoid wiring is completely independent of the track.
If you elect to solder, just butt the flanges of the rails together and put a blob of solder on top of the flanges at each end. Clean and tin those areas first. Also flare out the very ends of the guard rail. This eases the flanges in between the rails–same as GPJ’s bevels–and gives you more room for your soldering iron. The curvature of the guard rail hardly matters over the short distance involved.
Using the track pin trick at http://www.thortrains.net/marstart.html I’ve had no trouble with Lionel 2026s on Marx switches, either plastic or metal, O27 or O34. In fact, my Dad used Marx metal switches with his 2026 back in the '50s.
Small world, ain’t it? Are you familiar with the group in downtown Columbia with the layouts, AMROC?
http://www.amroc.org/brochure.html#layouts
Been meaning to check them out some Thurs. night, but either forget or get busy.