I’d like to build my first O-gauge layout on a 6 x 12 table. I’m using standard Lionel 3-rail tubular track and need input on if I need to use a cork roadbed and whether ballast is used for this type of track. Any help would be appreciated for a guy who is moving from HO to O-gauge.
Thanks…Coal Load
It’s a matter of choice. There are many that paint a roadbed onto the surface and leave it at that. On my previous layout I fastened the tubular track direct to the plywood, didn’t know better, added balsawood ties and ballasted. It was a small L-shaped layout and noise wasn’t a problem. If you are going for a semi-high rail look you can use the cork, add ties and ballast. Remember not to screw the track down through the cork or the noise dampning effect of the cork will be negated. It is also recommended to use foam, or fiberous, insulating board laminated to the plywood base to help deaden the sound.
You’ll be getting a number of additional details I’m sure once others see your post.
Welcome to the forum! I agree with Roger’s comments. To see different looks, scroll through the pages of this forum and look for the weekly Sunday Photo threads. You’ll see many different pictures of layouts with tubular track that may help you decide on a look you like.
O gauge trains are loud. But sound deadeners such as Homasote sheets and cork roadbed can be used to reduce the noise.
3 rail tubular track can be left as is or ballasted. It’s a matter of personal taste.
Jim
You can use SoundStop by Celetex [its not ceiling tiles nor is the black fiber stuff] and it is just as good as Homasote and usually cheaper [depending on where you live].
A “quick” and good-looking roadbed can be made by spraying grey Plasti-Kote brand “Fleck Stone” or “STONE touch” paint onto the cork after it is put down, and before laying-down track (mask-off table area with tape and paper). The paint is multi-colored and textured. Also looks great on country roads and parking lots. Joe
Awesome tip, Joe! [tup]
Jim
Thanks for that tip Joe.
Guys, thanks for the feedback. On the question of fastening the track down, suggestion was not to use screws since it overcomes the sound benefits of the cork/foam roadbed. Are most tracks free-floating or is there other recommendations?
Coal Load
Many have taken to using “zip” ties. They are those long, plastic strips used to bundle electrical cables together. What you do is drill a hole in the table under a track tie, and place the zip down through the tie and table with the block end on top. Then go underneath the layout and add a second zip to the first to secure it. Cut off the access. Repeat roughly every other track section.
You can buy these at Home Depot, Lowes, etc in different quantities. They greatly reduce the noise transfer. I’ve seen a layout that employs these fasteners, and when a train goes by, all I could hear was the sound of the loco’s side rods. VERY quiet!
Jim
I used screws [dry wall] but did not go through the three layers of SoundStop. Glued the Soundstop together. In back room, I used only one layer of SoundStop. I did screw the sheets down but track screws did not go through. Worked great for me.
Depends on what you like. I used green Life Like mats over bare 5/8 inch plywood and screwed the track down with #4 wood screws 3/4 inch long, no roadbed or homasote, the noise is not that bad as people have you beleive, secured the plywood to the 2 by 4’s underneath. Also used plastic ties under the tubular 031 track, three to a section or six for a ten inch straight. Using green thumbtacks to mount telephone poles from Lionel, and Squadron Green Putty to make repairs to the green mat, helps if you save the extra green stuff that falls offf the mats when you put them on the plywood as I put the extra green stuff over the green putty to make it look like grass after I fix a spot.
Lee F.