As most of the regular readers have become aware, from my questions and comments, I moved from ‘HO’ to ‘O27’ only a few years ago. I was given a few Post War freight cars and, having gotten the “bug”, have bought recently manufactured Lionel freights. The majority of these were made in China and are mostly plastic except for the wheels. The plastic trucks appear to be attached with metal studs and a few of the trucks have broken requiring replacements. (not an easy task for me) The older freight cars have ‘horseshoe’ clips and cast trucks.
Question: I purchase mainly from E-Bay…For future reference, when I see an ad, what should I be looking for in the description that will be a clue that the car is the more recent modern era light plastic or the older post War heavier plastic and cast trucks?
As always, this “older” guy appreciates your advice.
I agree that looking at the trucks is key. Metal trucks will look a bit more dull and have a rougher texture than the newer plastic trucks will, but the style of the newer plastic trucks also differs pretty significantly from the postwar ones. Basically, if the truck looks like it’s postwar, it’s postwar.
Another trick would be to look up the car’s number on Postwarlionel.com. If it’s newer, there won’t be an entry for it there.
Reattaching trucks isn’t all that bad of a job though. Drill out what’s left of the rivet, then take the car to the hardware store and get a bolt and a stop nut (the ones that have a nylon piece on the top) that fit. Run the bolt through, tighten the nut down enough that the truck fits firmly but can still turn, and you’re done. After you’ve done one or two it gets pretty easy.
When I first started into Lionel trains a few years ago I bought the 'Standard Catalogue of Lionel Trains 1945-1969’ by Doyle (known as the Doyle book) at a train show.
This has information on years cars were made, and information on what changed thru the years. This also has pricing, based on condition, but as you will see are ball park numbers at best, compared to reality.
I have found this to be an invaluable resouce, and believe Greenburgh has a similar book.
I suggest starting with this investment, about $30. Copies may be difficult to locate due to a copyright case being tried.
Traindaddy, Lionel has been using plastic trucks since the late 1950’s. The AAR-Timken style made starting in the late 1950’s was nice with a copper armature and the knuckle was still sprung with a metal spring.
When Lionel was bought out by General Mills, a new style truck was tooled up, after the Symington truck with a plastic armature and metal thumbtack (though early ones had just a piece of metal, not a thumbtack) and a “spring” was made out of the same plastic as the knuckle, and was actually attached to the knuckle. Lionel reverted back to a Timken style plastic truck sometime during the late 1980’s.
Granted, I won’t claim these plastic trucks are as good as others, but I certainly have not had trouble with them, and actually like them. I don’t understand how they can be breaking, other than either:
A) the plastic “spring” attached to the knuckle (which is prone to wearing out so the coupler no longer springs open). These knuckles are availble from most parts dealers.
B) The plastic coupler armature fails to stay engaged when pulling a train (which is either from the pin on the end of the armature breaking or the armature not staying engaged with the knuckle). The plastic armature is also readily available from parts dealers. You can also remove the armature and bend it upwards to give it more pressure to stay engage. Or you can use a black small rubber band available at dollar stores with hair supplies to wrap around the coupler, which will keep the knuckle closed while still allowing the coupler to be operated at least manually by hand.
To remove the trucks traindaddy all you need is a drill and a new unworn drill bit about the same diameter (or smaller) as the underside of the metal rivet. Place the train car upside down on a piece of scrap wood or homosote board, and drill out the rivet. Basically you will be heating up the rivet, thus the plastic around it and it will come out of the train car. T
Brianel027: First of all, many thanks for your extremely informative notes. My “truck” problems are simply the product of a very clumsy “older” guy (not to mention any names) who has a tendency to drop his Lionels [oops] and when they land on the floor they…well, they don’t land gently. [:(] Thanks again.