Lionel Postwar 1666 2-6-2 Prarie Type

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

My uncle gave me his old train set. It is in bad shape. I really want to get it working because my Grandpa was like Dad to me bought for my uncle in 1946. I want to get the loco running and I maye even restore it?

Is there a place that I can see a parts drawing, diagram etc. so that I can figure out what parts that I need?

Thanks in advance.

2

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/2026-48.htm

Your date may be a little off. The 2-6-2 2026 was first made in 1948. When looking for information or parts for this locomotive, be aware that Lionel made a somewhat different 2-6-4 with the same model number, starting in 1951.

3

the 1666 is a great engine, and very easy to work on. I bought one that had spent some time in a wet box, and was rusted pretty good, but the main parts were stil good. I got it running in a few hours. Olsen’s is a great place for parts and info.

and welcome to the site!

4

Did the title of this topic always say “1666”? How did I get to thinking it was about a 2026?

5

LOL,I am afraid it has always been 1666 [:)]

6

I wish it was a 2026 as there are no drawings for the 1666 that I see. If I have to I suppose I could break down and buy the drawings. I was looking for a free diagram of course…

7

Anyone know if the diagrams for the 1666 would be in the CDs of the Lionel Train Service Manual 1902-86?

8

I have the 1666 and it is a very nice running engine. CTT rated it in the ‘BEST’ column when they reviewed the best and worst of the Lionel postwar engines.

Earl

9

Here is the prewar 1666, but not in much detail:

http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/searchcd31.htm?itm=798

10

Thanks! I am curious though, where did I go wrong?

  • I went to Olsen’s Library
  • Enter the Library
  • Lionel Postwar Locomotives
  • 1666 2-6-2 prairie
  • where I found a parts list.
    OOPS never mind I just read where it was a pre war holdover and I see the years in the docs. Thanks again.
11

I have a 1666 as well. Great little engine, very easy to work on.

Try calling Jeff at the Train Tender.com www.ttender.com. He’ll know about the parts you need and give you a fair price to boot.

Kurt

12

Thanks for all of the help. I hope to start disassembling it this week. Here is a link to a photo of my

A couple more things. Except for when I was a young child when I had a couple of Marx trains and I believe a Lionel? All of my experience has been in DC trains. My trains when I was a child only ran in one direction if I remember correctly. I also remember losing a couple of them to derailments and the motors burning up.

  • Is there a way to protect against that with a fuse or something some where? Also I have a basic question as well.
  • Does the 1666 change direction by only moving the switch or will it change by cutting the power? How does that work. Oh I almost lied. I do have an old Marklin HO train. It is AC and has no switch. I cut power and push throttle to the left. The engine jumps and then when I open the throttle back up it goes in the opposite direction.

Here are the pictures…

13

“Does the 1666 change direction by only moving the switch or will it change by cutting the power? How does that work”

The 1666 has an “E” unit. You change directions by turning power off and on. You realize you need an AC transformer for this, right?

Roger

14

Thanks, I do realize I have to use an AC transformer. I’ll have to buy one. I would be afraid to plug in transformer that came with it. It was the 40 watt model and it don’t look to good.

15

If you don’t have a whistle in your tender, it will run just fine on DC. In fact, it will be quieter. But if there is a whistle, it will blow continuously. You will however need quite a bit more current than an HO train draws.

Postwar transformers have circuit breakers. You can’t go wrong with a Lionel 1033 or 1044.

16

I’m not sure what you think is in bad shape. That’s a nice looking engine, for it’s pre-war age. Remember it’s been around, and played with for 60 + years. The finish on the plated items is still in good shape, and there isn’t any rust.

I advise against a strip and repaint.

Can you post some photos of the underside? It looks like a little oil and gear lube and that will be off and running!

Kurt

17

Thanks, no whistle here… Thanks for the recommendation on the transformers. After the repairs I have already started thinking abut a 4x8 an L shape layout.

18

That’s good news. Besides the obvious pilot wheels missing. The reverser switch is missing, their are a couple screws holding the undercarriage on missing. In the front photo the class light on the engineers side is “winking” at us thanks to the loco being dropped at some point. It looks like I should be able to fix that up with a little coaxing a drill press and a new lens

You mentioned Pre-War? Is this Pre or Post?

Thanks for the input on the repaint. Depending on which day of the week it is I have been for and against it. I will likely leave it as is. It took 60 something years to develop that character. Maybe just a gentle cleaning on the outside.

19

That’s a pre-war 1666 Type II, built the later part of 1946. The number plate is separately applied, the pilot (front) truck frame is die-cast, and the bell is not a press-in type.

Clean the bottoms of the wheels with denatured alcohol, and a q-tip, and add a small amount of plastic safe oil, like LaBelle 108, to the linkages and running gear, and you should be good to go.

You will need to open her up to look at the e-unit lever, and may need to replace the entire e-unit, as the arms are rivited into place.

Kurt

20

I also have a 1666 from my Dad. I replaced the e-unit (purchased from Olsons) and run perfectly!!

It maintains a place on the layout as a display unit, but it does go out and play once in a while!