Does anyone have a source for the material that needs to be packed into the smoker when replacing the heat element?
Thanks,
Kevin
I use residential fiberglass insulation … works well but be sure that it touches the element.
Ditto, but take a look at Marty’s Tips and Tricks at http://www.martye.com/TipsandTricks/TipsandTrick5.htm
Sometime back I posted a request that someone who uses fiberglass as a smoke-generator wick try rock wool instead and let us know how it worked. Rock wool is about as absorbant as fiberglass but has a much higher melting point, which would seem to solve the problem of burning up the wick when it runs dry. No one seems to have tried it yet; so I’m renewing the suggestion.
By the way, I often see recommendations to use “pink” insulation. The pink fiberglass is nothing special–just a trademark of Owens Corning. They dye their fiberglass to make it look different. I don’t see why any other brand would be any worse–or better–than theirs.
I agree Bob The color is not a issue. The insulation I used today was yellow.
I have never heard of Rock Wool, is it the same thing as Mineral wool? Sounds interesting to try, where can you get it?
Tks,
Kev.
It’s the same stuff. It is, or was, commonly used for house insulation. It is used in gas-log fireplaces to simulate ash and embers. If you don’t have a supply in your attic, you can probably find it where they sell the gas-log setups.
Pink was recommended as it was the generic meaning for house insulation. My house attic’s latest was pink, originally in 1940, rock wool. My latest was the lake house attic and it was Ohio snow white.
I found the pink insulation was too thin (yes, I have a lifetime supply in the attic). It tends to char too quickly. I use Tiki torch wick, which is readily available and works great in my smoke units.
A minor point from someone who spent some time in that industry. Pink, yellow or any other color does not matter as someone earlier suggested it’s just dye. Glass fiber does not absorb any liquid … the idea is to pack it tight so that the smoke fluid sits between the fibers. I’ll have to take a look at the torch wick which I believe will absorb the fluid.
srguy
Looking at the tiki wicks on the net they too seem to be fiberglass or cotton and I would think cotton could catch fire.
Kev.
Torch wick is available at Michaels if you have one near you. I actually have some on hand and will give it a try.
Kev – you’re correct … if it’s cotton it can burn even possibly ignite! The F/G will not burn … it may char but the melting point is quite high … I doubt an element would reach that temperature
Jim - srguy
According to Wikipedia, fiberglass (“glass wool”) can stand 250 to 270 degrees Celsius (482 to 518 degrees Fahrenheit), while rock wool (“stone wool”) can stand 700 to 850 degrees Celsius (1364 to 1562 degrees Fahrenheit).
Tiki torch wicks are fiberglass, not cotton. The whole point is for the oil in the torch to burn, not the wick. I’ve used it in a number of smoke units, it works great. The insulation fiberglass is very fine, and tends to char quicker than the Tiki wick or the wick from Lionel or MTH.
I’ll have to check my tiki torches but since grjohn says it is f/g, it probably does perform better because the fibers are woven closer together that the insulation … makes sense that it will hold more fluid and “wick” the fluid towards the element. Will have to try it.
Kevin,
A friend of mine is a scientist in the petroleum industry and has provided me with some Quartz Wool to try as packing. I will let you know how it works. It should be very good because it can withstand intense heat. 2,012 Degrees F
Technical Parameter:
Purity: 99.95% Max99.99%
Operating Temperature: 1100º C
Resistivity at 20º C 1× 10 T20Ωm 800º C 2× 10T7 Ωcm
Dielectric constnt at 10GHz 3.78
Loss Angle Tangent Value at 10GHz: 0.0002
Heat conductivity at 20º C 1.38 W. M-1. K-1
High temperature use: 1050C long term
Tks,
Kev