I will just reply to all of the suggestions and advice from everyone together here. I have been doing a lot of reading and research, and thinking about different things. I’m doing this hobby on a tight budget, and I’m restricted in the amount of space I have available. I’m keeping to the low end budget locomotives, freight cars and track systems. Basically speaking the low cost O27 locomotives and freight cars, and O27 type track. I’m just using plain old analog control, not any TMCC, Legacy, DCS or DCC controls.
A few of the locomotives I purchase will be postwar Marx locomotives, and the low end Lionel O27 postwar locomotives. But most of my collection will be the low end K-Line locomotives, and the low end Lionel locomotives from the MPC and LTI eras, with the can motors. I expect the majority of my locomotives will have the can motors, not the open frame universal motors.
I’m thinking about getting a couple postwar 90 watt Lionel 1033 transformers.
I actually want to use the Lionel DC only locomotives, and the various Lionel and K-Line locomotives which have one or two can motors, and the electronic reversing units. Specifically the diesels with the can motors entirely within the trucks. And the little Lionel starter set steam locomotives, such as 0-4-0, 2-4-0, and 4-4-0 locomotives. And the Lionel Industrial Switcher, which came in both DC only, and AC versions (can motor with electronic e-unit).
Most postwar period transformers start off with a minimal 6-7 volts to the track, which will make these small locomotives with the can motors operate with jack-rabbit starts. The Lionel 1033 transformer has a dual setting for voltage to the track. The B-U posts put 0-11 volts to the track, which is more appropriate for those can motored locomotives. When running a loco that needs more power (especially postwar Lionel), I can switch to the A-U posts for 5-16 volts.
When I want to operate my trains on DC current, I could build a box with a DPDT switch (for reversing direction), a full wave bridge rectifier, wired to the B-U posts of the Lionel 1033 transformer. And some vents in the box, and a fan to keep the rectifier cool. Of course when connected like this, I will loose the neutral position, but that is okay with me.
The A-U posts would not go through the little box (with the full wave bridge rectifier), so that A-U connection will continue to provide 5-16 volts AC current, for all locomotives with the open frame motor, and traditional type reversing unit. Such as Marx, postwar Lionel, and the MPC Lionel with the tradtional Pullmor motors.
I know I can operate traditional locomotives with the open frame motor and traditional e-unit on DC or AC current. And operate locomotives with the can motors and electronic reversing units on DC or AC power.
Anything with a can motor (without electronic reversing circuitry) naturally needs to be run with DC power. And any locomotives with a blown circuit board (which have can motors) can be run on the DC current from the Lionel 1033 and full wave bridge rectifier.
Using this method and Lionel 1033 transformer (and full wave bridge rectifier connected ONLY on the B-U posts), I can operate just about any O gauge locomotive available. It doesn’t matter if it’s postwar or modern, has a traditional open frame motor or can motors. Anything that has a traditional universal open frame motor, will use the 5-16 AC current from the A-U posts. Anything that needs DC current, can be run on the 0-11 volts DC current on the B-U posts (and full wave bridge rectifier).
I would also replace the majority of the old light bulbs in the trains, with more energy efficient light bulbs. Especially when I’m operating on the DC power at 0-11 volts, I would be using lower voltage light bulbs in those locomotives, lighted cabooses, and lighted passenger cars, etc. I don’t need the typical 14-18 volt bulbs common in most Lionel type trains. I can get buy with 12 volt bulbs, or even a little less. Because I expect to be operating the majority of my locomotives on the 0-11 volts from the B-U posts on the Lionel 1033 postwar transformer. And I doubt I will be running my trains at full speed very much. I want to operate my trains at slow realistic speeds, like real freight trains, and do lot’s of switching maneuvers at various industries on a layout.
Which means the 90 watt Lionel 1033 will be plenty good enough for my needs, for slow speed smooth control, using the low end K-Line and Lionel locomotives equipped with can motors. And especially because I will be replacing all of the 14-18 volt bulbs with 6 to 12 volt bulbs. The majority of my switches (turnouts) will be manually operated, no light bulbs needed. I will only use electric powered switches (turnouts) where it’s hard to reach.
And nothing else will be powered by the Lionel 1033 transformers. No powered accessories. They will get their own dedicated transformers or power supplies. Even the electric powered switches (turnouts) would be rewired so it’s getting electricity from it’s own separate transformer, not track power. The only thing powered by the Lionel 1033 transformers, will be the trains themselves.
I actually intend to completely remove all of the electronic circuitry (reversing units, sound, smoke units, etc) from those low end budget locomotives (with can motors), and operate them on straight DC power. I want quieter operation, no buzzing, slow and smooth speed control, lower current draw, etc. Many of those low end locomotives are dirt cheap, very few are collectible. Few people want the DC only locomotives Lionel made in the MPC and LTI era. That’s fine with me, they are extremely budget friendly.
I would remove all of the electronics, sound and smoke units, and convert them to run on DC current. I will have plenty of room inside to add some extra weight. I would also try to reduce or eliminate the rubber traction tires. It’s crucial on the Lionel 4 wheel Industrial switcher, to have 4 metal wheels, so it doesn’t stall as much on switches or crossings.
Honestly I got many of these ideas from reading the many posts from the member “brianel027”. He ran these types of cheap locomotives on DC current, with a Lionel 1033 transformer, and a full wave bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC power. I have to give him the credit. I’m just interested in coping his ideas for myself.
