I’m new to the list so forgive me if this has been asked before. I have a Lionel Type ZW transformer and would like to upgrade it. I would also like to find a manual and/or parts breakdown for it. It’s been in my family for at least 40 years and I’d like to get it running again. Thanks in advance for your help!
Eddie
[#welcome] To the forum Eddie ! Here is a link, 1 of many that should be of help. http://www.olsenstoytrainparts.com/
Once you get it going again, I would put fast acting fuses or circuit braker between the transformer and the layout. I’m suing Postwar ZW and it is great. Protected by fast acting circuit breakers.
Eddie, I’m not sure what you mean by “upgrade”. The ZW is considered by most (American Flyer fans might argue) to be the greatest toy train transformer of all time. Any problems your’s might have should be able to be easily fixed.
It is my understanding that, modern safety regulations prohibit that kind of power in a single toy transformer. Modern systems use multiple smaller transformers to get the job done, though I’m not sure what is inside 400 watt MTH Z-4000. The ZW styling of the unit is so well loved and recognized among operators, that Lionel recently brought back the housing with updated components inside.
Hang on to it, it’s a classic. Have fun.
Upfitting a postwar ZW starts with installing a new power cord. It always made sense to me to replace the rollers[wipers} on the four throttles and replace any binding posts that are loose or damaged.
In most cases the old copper or selenium rectifiers for Whistle/Horn are shot and can be replaced with 40 amp rectifier diodes[about $3-4 each, Anode to(+) Case Stud type Diode].
There are a number of O-gauge folks that repair ZWs—Harry Henning in Pa. is one.
Jim Barrett made a video or two covering ZW upfit.
I agree with the suggestion to install fast-acting fuses on the railpower circuit extended from an old ZW.
A ZW is a single core transformer rated at 275 watts input and provides a net total output of about 180-90 watts—less if hot from long continous running. Over the years it has proven to be pretty much bulletprooof if treated with care.
Are the fast-acting fuses something I can buy local? Thanks for all your quick replies!
Radio Shack has all kinds of fuses, if you don’t mind paying convenience store prices.
The secret is trying to match the fuse rating to the task. I use 6 amps on my tracks. It really depends on what kind of loads you plan to have. Two postwar dual motored locos can easily draw 6 amps, thus popping the fuse, when nothing is really wrong.
In reality, you should really be matching your fuse rating to the wire size you are using to supply power. Any system is only as strong as it’s weakest link, that’s the point of the fuse. Stop current flow before burning up your wire, or anything else.
Radio Shack. You can get inline cartridge fuseholders or fuse blocks. I would start with the size of fuses that are compatible with the load of the engines and lighted cars in the various power districts[or “Blocks”]that you plan to operate.
The total ZW transformer output is about 10 amps, regardless of how you distribute it by the throttles, but you may or may not have that kind of load in the beginning. If you are running modern engines the amperage draw of the new motors is only 1-11/2 amps at load–if lightweight freight cars—however lighted cars add up quickly. You can use smaller or larger fuses as the train load demands.
My old Lionel 2333 F3s pull over 2 amps and a big {new/modern]articulated Y3 only pulls less than 1 amp running at no load. Put 30 weighted hoppers behind the Y3 and it still draws only slightly more than 3 amps.
I am a slow typist but basically saying the same thing as Big Boy.
I would not consider fuses unless you just like changing them for fun. (and buying them) Most average derailments will blow one. Get 6 to 10 amp circuit breakers, available at electrical supply houses in almost any town or city for $5. Rat shack does not carry them.
While you are at it wire a 12-14 volt bulb acrossed the circuit breaker and mount it near the transformer or on control panel. It will be off when the breaker is feeding current to the track. When a short and trip occur and the breaker opens, the light will come on immediately showing you a problem has been encountered.
Charlie
Charlie
The Potter-Brumfield 6,8,10 and 12 -15amp thermal breakers and similar units are rated at 2-15 seconds trip time and typically take 15 seconds or longer[Newark Electronics, Mouser,etc]. I used them in building several breaker boxes but ended up going back to fuses because of the thermal delay. Graybar Electric and GE Supply order small breakers from these sources.
Magnetic breakers that really act fast are $80-90 so fuses are a good compromise—for me. Fast is obviously better but breakers/fuses only protect the power source not the fragile engine wiring and circuit board solder traces. Need spike arresters such as PowerGards for that and they ain’t cheap.
When it comes to over current protection, I use a device that has circuit breakers, and fuses totally beat, both for cost and simplicity. It is called a Poly Switch or Poly Fuse, and is available from Digi-Key, in a variety of ratings, for under a dollar per unit. It is auto resetting, and never needs to be replaced.
Eddie
As regards your E-mail question, one source of postwar ZW upfit/repair and parts:
Harry Henning
128 S. Line St.
Lansdale, Pa. 19446
Ph: 215-362-2442
Fax: 215-412- 7712