Building a new layout, going to try to use only extruded foam insulation for scenery. Many sources, including Model Railroader themselves, suggest using Liquid Nails for Projects for gluing foam to almost any surface since it won’t eat the foam. BUT…I read the label today and it clearly states that it is NOT recommended for gluing foam to foam. So…what to use when I am stacking my foam layers together to form mountains? Elmer’s glue? Suggestions?
I’m not versed enough to know differences between extruded foam or any others. I’ve done a lot of styrofoam work, both the type that leaves lots of little beads, and other that doesn’t. I’ve used Elmers white glue and also latex caulk, both with good success. Latex caulk is paintable if used, whereas silicone is not. A tip, if you don’t know already, when using caulk- if you need to smooth some around or or for clean up, wetting your finger or wet paper towels will keep it from sticking to each.
Hope this helps!
Duane
PL300 or use a cheap acrylic latex caulk, both from your hardware outlet.
Crandell
I tried that Liquid Nails for Foamboard stuff - never worked very well.
I have 2 layers of foam on my layout, I used yellow glue between the layers, takes a few days to dry, but it holds. Or latex caulk. For a basic mountain form that you are going to cover with plaster cloth after making the basic shape, you can also try wood skewers as a kinf og long ‘nail’ to hold things in place.
–Randy
I also use Elmers glue and it usually dries overnite. I have a dehumidifier also running and it helps with the drying time. Jim.
I found this problem as well, until I found a glue similar that is safe for poly products such as foam. Its called Parfix [A Selleys brand] Maxi Nails, but I’m in Australia and Im not sure if it is available in the U.S.
Never tried the Liquid Nails for Projects, but I’ve used Liquid Nails Heavy Duty with good success on the foam board.
Latex adhesive caulk – not the silicone stuff that repels moisture – works just fine. I use tubes full of the stuff because I also use it for cork roadbed and laying the flex track itself/
The Woodland Scenics product meant for their foamboard also works just fine.
Dave Nelson
Whatever you use should not be solvent based. In most cases that will melt the foam. You need to use something specifically that says it is OK for foam or a latex / water based product. Another issue that you may have is drying time of the glue. This is because almost no air can penetrate the foam for the glue to dry properly.
After using several different types of tube / caulking glues over the years, I now use Hot Glue or Epoxy. Neither one relies on air for the curing process.
Extruded Foam (Bink Blue etc) is smooth and firm, somewhat rigid. It is as its name implies extruded from a source of some sort through rollers like a sheet of steel.
Expanded Foam (white, think Styrofoam) is light, textured and easily crumbled.A chemical reaction causes the form to expand and fill a mold or something. Think Coffee Cup.
There is a sort of expanded foam that can be sprayed into walls or attics which will expand to fill the space. It is very irregular in appearance and while it might make a nice mountain, there is not much else on a layout that it can be used for.
LION uses either siliconized latex or just plain silicone caulk for just about everything on the railroad.
ROAR
Pick up some DAP Alex Plus Acrylic Latex caulk down at your local home center or hardware store:
Cost: $2/tube. It comes in a variety of colors, holds great, and and allows you ~45 minutes of adjustment time before it begins to cure. I use it for foam-to-foam, foam-to-cork, cork-to-cork, and cork-to-track. You can even use it on wood.
The other plus is that it doesn’t have the nasty chemicals and odor that the Liquid Nails contains. There’s a slight vinegary smell to the DOW caulk when you first apply it. It’s just acetic acid (vinegar) to cure the caulk.
Tom
I think you will find there are two Liquid Nails for Projects. I found this confusing, as I too had seen it touted for use on extruded foam and it was not clearly marked which was which. I did use a tube of the proper one and it worked fine. However, I have since used inexpensive latex caulk and find it works every bit as well at a lower cost.
Good luck,
Richard
Elmer’s Glue, full strength, held my roadbed down just fine on my last layout, But it sounds like Latex Caulk is the way to go. Thanks all for the replies!
One thing about Elmer’s is that it dries hard and rigid. The latex caulk, OTOH, remains flexible.
Tom
This is my go to as well Tom! I started using this when the liquid nails started to melt the foam. This stuff is all I use now. As others have mentioned I use this for foam, cork, track…
Same stuff, use clear for cork to track, white for everything else!
I used to do a lot of woodworking (finishing carpenter) and use the latex caulking from Dap for kitchen and bathrooms. Mildew resistant, dries fast, paintable, no really bad smell, and best of all, fill gaps nicely. If you run a thick bead arund the outside edge of your foam and press the peices together it’ll ooze out. Wipe this with a damp rag and it’ll fill the seams making your foam look like one massive chunk.
One trick I have discovered when using adhesives to glue impermeable materials together is to apply theem in an S pattern so that no part of the bead is completely enclosed. This will allow all the adhesive to be exposed to the air and be able to cure properly.
Just found this thread now. But put me in the category of using latex caulking too. I use it to hold the foam roadbed down and also use it to hold the track to the roadbed. the best part is too like guys have mentioned you can buy it for a few bucks a tube.