this may sound strange, but do you guys that use a lot of “tsunami” boards have a "go to list of CV adjustments " YOU PROGRAM IN RIGHT FROM THE GET GO ?
like cvs for a basic sound starting point on the EQ ,I find the horn seams muted compared to the bell in default and I have a lot of issues trying to Quite that darn bell !( it hurts my ears) NOW I do use decoder pro and a stand alone PR3 and thought " I need my own default list " for starting CV adjustments …
the adjustments I would like to do rite from the get go or addressing ,would be
move or jump at start up, I 'M still not clear on how to adjust this bad habit out where the decoder (loco) starts moving at start-up ,my QSI decoders start up at addressing but the loco does not move ,default
raising the horn (diesel) and lowering the BELL, I take the horn CV to 240 and the bell CV down to under 100 and it (bell)still seams louder
though decoder pro seams to walk you though decoder set up , I was just wondering if others have a "go to list of adjustments " ? and would like to share them with others ?? [;)] Jerry
There’s no set list of sound CVs because each different type of model requires different settings, and each person has their own preferences. Even the type and size of speaker used has an influence on CV settings.
The basic CVs for motor and light control are going to be different for each type of model based on how each motor performs. Even the CV settings for two identical models, such as an Athearn RTR GP, are going to differ because of the different characteristics of the models.
I first set the address, then CV’s 2,3, and 4 for motion control, although I have yet to get a Tsunami to alter its behaviour using CV2…I think I recall that it doesn’t matter in Tsunami’s. Instead, you must fiddle with higher CV’s that I will cover momentarily.
Next, I set the Master Volume CV for about what I can stand with all the sounds unaltered. I take a start point near 50-60% of the range for that CV, but I don’t automatically take one or the other. Once I am happy with the horn and bell, then I normally reduce the other sounds from that set-point. I occasionally enjoy using F4, for example, and that is a hissing sound. It drives me crazy at full volume, and only somewhat better at 60%. So, it is one of the first other sounds I reduce another 50% or so. Press F4 and if I get a scale hiss as if I were about 60’ away, that’s what I want. Rod clunk is hokey. I like the QSI Titan version many times better. I try, often without any apparent success on my BLI J Class to reduce it to almost silent, but so far without success.
At that initial reduction of the Master Volume, I find the bell still much too loud for a person standing 100’ away from the steamer rumbling down a yard track or approaching a passenger platform. So, it gets reduced another 10 points at least. And so on…
To get your loco to perform well at start-out and crawl speeds, you need to do an iterative procedure with the following CV’s. Make sure you tackle this when your circumstances are such that you have a clear 30 minutes so that you can get some encouraging results…you don’t want to stop and return a day later to find you have really botched everything and now need to do a factory reset…and losing all those other settings and the time it took to find them. JMRI is looking pretty good.
Okay, now follows a long document that I found authored by one Jim Betz. Take your time, re
WOW :Crandell thats a lot of info[:|], but thats good !.. lets see if any have a go to list…
I have a old list from David Bedard (no meatballs) and he had a great generic EQ settings list and a fun list that gave a loco a "running like a prototype " (for fun) setting where it would take awhile to reach a faster speed and would take a while to bring it all to a stop ,Like I said, for fun ,not recommended …Jerry
On some of my decoders, the “coupler clash” sound defaults to one of the higher-order functions. I can get to them with my Lenz throttle, but it takes more keystrokes, so I re-map that sound function down to a lower key, like 6. I would prefer to have it on function 3 like other sound decoders, but the design of the decoder doesn’t let my arbitrarily re-map sounds. Instead, they are constrained to certain ranges of functions.
I agree Mr B, I LIKE AND USE my coupler sound when hooking up and wish ALL manufactures would use the #3 button fore it …ex. 1. bell 2. horn/whistle 3.coupler on & on. Is’nt tsunami #3 default grade crossing ? …oh well,I’ll look it up…Jerry