Hello I have and old Bowser challenger its not worth butting a lot of money into but runs fine . The problem is the pin the valve rod mounts to and it keeps backing out. Is lock-tight to much ? Thanks Frank
There are a zillion types of lok tite out there and one of them should work. The problem is, which one and at what cost. It depends on the clearance between the mating parts and the material of which they are made. For example, brass pin in a zamac boiler. In this case, I would use a CA type adhesive. What are your materials?
You’ve got the right idea, however, just use a dap with a toothpick. Had to do this once with a slipping axle to a drive gear.
Lock Tight is a good idea for those. I used it on a Mikado I built. It had the same problem with the screws backing out.
Either Lock-tite or ACC will solve your problem. Make sure the parts you are using it on are free of oils or grease. Get the type of lock-tite that is for screws that with be removed at some time, rather than the permanent type. If you goof up, and use the wrong kind of Lock-Tite a little heat from your soldering iron ought to break it loose. (watch out if you’ve got the old lead boiler. Don’t heat up anything that might melt.)
As far as ACC goes, you can always get it loose by using acetone as solvent. Try nail polish remover, which usualy has enough Acetone in it to break loose the glue. Be careful with acetone around painted parts.
Hope this helps
JBB
As mentioned there are several different strengths of Loctite. I have Loctite 222MS, which is red in color. This is the weakest of the product line. Loctite refers to their line as “threadlockers”.
Several years ago this topic came up on a large scale train site. The reason for using the Loctite 222MS, was the ability to be able to undo what you have fastened together. You use to strong of adhesive and you will not get it apart if you need to later on.
Check Loctite’s website for a dealer in your area. Contact them to see if they have it in stock or they can order it for you. I would not buy a large container of this as the shelf life is pretty short once opened.
I forget what I paid at the time for the bottle I bought. The bottle I got was about the size of a small bottle of Polly S paint.
Hello thanks guys lock-tight it is. I do have some red but I thought it was the strongest ? I will give it a try . I don’t want it to come apart any more. I think the pin is brass and not sure what the wheel is its the old pizza cuter type. Thanks Frank
I may be incorrect (only the 2nd time this year[:D]) but I beleive loctite red to be the strongest with loctite blue being less strong.
Ironically, the Loctite website is hard to read for the specs, but I have a package with a small tube that gives more of the important (to us anyway) data.
Loctite Blue is medium strength for 1/4 to 3/4 inch fasteners
Loctite Red is high strength for 3/8 to 1 inch fasteners
Loctite Green is High strength for #2 to 1/2 inch fasteners
Going by this, you want Loctite Green or type #290 by the current numbers because the others are for MUCH larger fasteners.
http://www.loctite.us/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?pageid=428&layout=2
Depending on the age of the model, the driver center (where the threads should be) is a zamac casting. The screw should be brass for any age Bowser model.
Checking out the web site that Tom posted on his answer. You have to look at the numbers on the bottle. Checking only the picture and you will see most of the bottles are red.
Number 222 which I referred to is listed as a Low Strength/Small Screw application. That can be broken free after being used with hand tools.
I had this problem with a Bachmann engine. Bachmann advised that I make sure it was plastic compatible. I dont know if any loc tights react with the metals we use. Perhaps asking the manufacturer would be an idea.
Dave
Loctite Purple will hold threaded parts together 99.99% of the time, but is still easy to disassemble.
Loctite Blue is a little stronger. May give disassembly problems with small slotted screws.
Loctite Red is forever… , or at least until you apply heat.
There are also Green, Brown, and Black, but you don’t need those. And they have a hydraulic “pipe dope” too, that is the cat’s meow for screwed pipe fittings with hydraulic, or other oil.
USE LOCTITE. It is designed for screws, etc. Old bubble gum or Elmer’s white glue ‘might’ work, but why chance it?
Hello well the lock-tight I have is no good dried up. It was the red bottle blue goo. I used it for my Harley last summer. I will get a new bottle this weekend. This pin has maybe 8 threads on it so it wont take a hole lot to hold it. And it has no slot or hex head on it just a round pin its hard to get a grip on it. So once its in it stays. Thanks for the help Frank