I always wondered what the uses of a kadee long shape coupler would be used for besides clearing loco pilots
That’s exactly what I use mine for. I’ve got some old Athearn F7s, and I needed the long-shank couplers because the nose of the engine extends a bit beyond the frame where the coupler box is mounted. They might also be used on a steamer with a long pilot.
They can also be used to help longer equipment cope with tight curves. They won’t work miracles and obviously every case is different, so YMMV.
Also, when you have diaphragms on passenger stock, sometimes a longer coupler is needed or you’ll have binding on curves.
In a few cases, the coupler mounting location needs to be recessed for some reason, so you can use it similarly as on a loco pilot.
Generally, you want the shortest shank necessary, so I only use them when other options won’t work.
Clearing a snow plow is another reason. And if you have 18 radius curves, you can use them on certain extra long six axles locos to keep trailing cars from being derailed.
I used a long shank coupler on an Athearn GP38-2 when I added a snow plow. I also have several Walthers heavyweight passenger cars with one long shank coupler on each car. By using a regular coupler and a long one between each I have a bit more space but not a huge gap on curves.
They’re useful on models whose prototypes had long-shank couplers. Notice the shank length on this car:
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1881724
Ed
I alternate long shank and medium shank couplers on my 85’ passenger cars, long on one end and medium on the other end of each car.
That lets the cars retain their prototypical look while permitting them to nicely negotiate 30" radius curves.
Rich
Wow, that picture is a barrel of things you don’t see any more.
You just have to wonder what was in those containers [:^)]…
Happy Modeling!
Don.
On the Eel River Beer Reefer Kits, the coupler pocket is recessed and a long shank coupler is mandatory for it to work.
Also when I build Athearn 86’ Hi-Cube Boxcars I scrap the movable coupler pocket and install a Details West Coupler Pocket and a long shank coupler in order to go around our non-prototype curves.
Rick J
I use the long shank couplers for converting to body mounted couplers on older made passenger cars such as Rivarossi 85’ cars and Con Cor 85’ cars. I locate the pivot point so the diaphragms do not rub against each other which would cause a derailment.
I have also used a single long shank coupler on only one end of recently produced cars to keep the ends of the cars from rubbing together and causing a derailment.
I use them on almost all my passenger cars, with the coupler box set farther back on the car. This creates less change in distance between the cars as they go through curves, allowing cars to be close coupled with diaphragms and still work well on curves in the 30" radius range.
Sheldon
Yikes, the previous posters beat me to the answer… I’ve used them for “all of the above”.