Looking for a smooth running great sounding HO DCC loco - early diesel era

Hi all,

I’m looking to add a early diesel era (1940 - 1959) to my layout. The layout is DCC. My diesel roster included 2 BLI SW1500 & 1 BLI SD7. I don’t want any more 6 axle.

Operations are mostly branch line way-freight with some minor passenger service. I have a small sorting and a small ferry yard.

Recommendations? [8-|]

I liked my Bowser VO-1000 loksound so much I ordered one of their new RS-3’s that will be out late this year. My RS will be a WM and borrowing from Howard Zane, it will be “leased” to my RR.

The VO is a SP and I haven’t had any luck removing the lettering with Microsol. I need to try the q-tip/alcohol trick and if that doesn’t work, I will have to strip it.

Atlas Gold Series DCC/Sound GP7,RS-1,RS-3 or the RS11 would be my first choice.

Thanks!

Try Pinesol but be careful the first time I tried it to took off the lettering and the paint down to the white plastic.

Thanks Larry. Did you buy them from Atlas or another vendor?

Perhaps consider converting available DC locos to DC w/sound to increase your options. My first conversion was a new (old stock) Kato RS-2 that is a very smooth runner, especially with the LokSound Select 6-Aux (one could use the Micro version). I was able to make a pseudo-enclosure in the top of the long hood with dual 13x18 micro speakers. Had to shorten the light pipes and add new LEDs.

I do have about 6 or 7 RS-1, 2, 3 DC Locomotives. Are they hard too convert to DCC and sound?

Gary had more than his share of problems with factory DCC loco’s. I have to hand it to him for even sticking with this hobby.

If I were in his shoes, DIY DCC installations would be right below bamboo shoots under my fingernails on my to do list.

Edit, Just saw Gary’s post about his loco roster. In that case my frugality gene kicks in. The installation is delicate, but not brain surgery. There is no room in older locos for speakers so milling the weight may be necessary.

Many older locomotives, especially Proto, have a removable weight. Presto, plenty of room.

Also, re stripping: CNW bought some E units from Kansas City Southern and threw paint on them right over the KCS paint. The KCS scheme was done in adhesive vinyl, and you could see it clearly under the yellow paint.

I have never worried about stripping models since.

There is a learning curve. My 1st install was non-sound, DCC ready RS-2 that I just had to plug the tiny TSC into the socket. My next RS-2 step was replacing the circuit board (to maximize room) with a wired in LokSound Select (the Micro is smaller and ok up to 3/4 amp). That require minor weight slimming or leaving out a small piece, and shortening the light pipes and gluing in the new LEDs. Plus adding the speakers against the curved roof with curved styrene enclosure ends. the RS-s is not the easiest but if you are handy (getting into locos to lube, car kits, etc.) and can solder reasonably it’s not bad either.

An easier starting project might be an F unit, as there is usually existing or readily available room over the rear truck / drivetrain. The wired in decoders fit above the motor (I add a piece of styrene strip as a base). I usually rip out the existing circuuit boards for room and simplicity of wiring up the LEDs, etc.

The easiest first project might consider the TCS WowSounds that come in kits for specific locos and often show a photo example / instructions. I am a LokSound fan but note that the new WowSounds are getting many favorable comments.

http://tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/WOWSound_Search/search.html

The larger diesels (e.g, SD50+ vs. GP7) and cab (e.g, E Vs. F) units often have lots of useable space, or can be modified to make some.

On a different strokes for different folks angle, these conversions are one of my favorite activities (though the scenery awaits).

Below are early diesels that I have in my NYC roster and they run smooth & slow:

  • Atlas - HH600/660*, RS3*, S1
  • BLI - SW7*
  • Bowser/Stewart - VO-660, VO-1000*, FT A-B, F3 A-B
  • Proto 2000 - S1, H10-44*
  • Walthers - SW1 (older), SW1 (newer)

The asterisks(*) are equipped with sound decoders (QSI or Loksound); the others have motor-only decoders (TCS). The older Walthers SW1 I converted to DCC and added a rear LED headlight.

Tom

[CAUTION: The Proto 2000 S1 states that it is “DCC-ready” but it actually requires the motor brushes to be isolated from the frame BEFORE a decoder can be safely installed into it. Otherwise, you run the risk of frying the decoder if you short the locomotive somehow.]

Any one of these are good;

GP7, GP9, RS-1, RS-3, RS-11, S2, S4, NW2, an H15-44 or an H16-44.

Check this site. There are a few there. You might get some ideas.

http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/WOWSound_Search/search.html

Rich

I usually buy them on e-Bay or from M.B.Klein(modeltrainstuff.com).

You’re right about the DCC Problems, however looking back I think many were track work from a layout built almost 30 years ago when i didn’t know squat and just laid the track. Two recent problems with “DCC” were a bad solder joint and a bad circuit breaker. Collectively these accounted for 80%. Throw in a bad decoder (replaced by the vendor) and not knowing about a DCC system that resulted in a back and forth with the vendor and sending a loco back 2x because the sound came on every time I turned on the layout which turned out to be NOT a decoder problem but a shut down procedure problem. Finally I’m at a point where I’ve ripped up and replaced about 2/3’s of the track and life is good again.

So based on that history, what could happen the first time I try to install a decoder [:P].

Thanks Paul,

I do have an Athearn Genesis F9 that is DCC ready. Just a 8 pin plug. NO Sound. But the motor is isolated and I think TCS makes a drop in board.

That should be a good help.

The OP did say great sounding in the title. I should point out to the OP that what some may consider great sounding may not sound so great to others.

I saw Atlas diesels mentioned, and while Atlas are great running, those installed with QSI sound, to me, aren’t so great sounding. I have a couple of Atlas GP40-2’s, which are nice and good runners, but the sound is unimpressive.

So the OP may want to listen to a variety of engines and deside for himself if the sound equipped diesels suggested satisfies or not.

From those I have heard which really impress me the most are the ESU Loksound equipped diesels. I haven’t heard the new Tsunami II so I can’t comment on them, and the Tsunami I are mixed, have good engine sounds but weak horns. QSI has come out with newer sound units which “may” be better than those in my Atlas engines, but your ears are going to be the best judge of what is “great sound” to you, and what is not so great. Different people have different standards of that is great sound.

Gary, my first loco (this time around) was an Genesis Tsunami GP9. After I got into using the LokSounds I decided to change to a LokSound Select as I did not like the sounds (particularly the horn, as someone has noted) very much. As my first conversion, I took the route of using the drop-in Select “Direct” board replacement which was easy. I changed from the low lifetime bulbs to SMD LEDs. For sound I replaced the original oval speaker in the long hood. I tried another (LokSound) oval temporarily but I wanted to try some micros, so I made a combo of a 13x18mm Knowles Grand and a smaller one. A definite improvement. See the video below.

This loco was pretty much my poster child for sound interruptions with slightly dirty track or less than perfect trackwork (a triple crossing combo) so I also added a capacitor in the short hood (or cab?) space, not shown. Today I would put a TCS Keep Alive KA4 (cubic format) but then I simply added the largest Radio Shack conventional capacitor, which was barely enough to solve the problem (sound hiccups).

ALL of my locos, except 2 T1 4-8-4’s, are first gen diesels. Well I also have an 0-6-0 but I got that after I tore down my layout and moved. All of them, except the MDC boxcab, are smooth runners. That one hasn’t run on my layout yet either, and I knew it was a coffee grinder going in, I will be using the shell on a new chassis.

Of the ones that DO run nicely, I have a bunch of Proto 2000 - GP7, S1, and FA’s. None of those have sound, they are all from before factory sound was a thing. Most of them do have a motoor decoder in. Fitting a sound decoder in any of them shouldn’t be too difficult other than the little S1 unless I don’t mind filling the cab with the speaker. A Loksound Select Micro is smaller than the motor decoder I have in one of them now.

I have a LOT of RS3’s - both as befits the actual roster of my prototype plus the fact that they are my favorite locos. Most of them are Atlas/Kato - mostly undecorated as well. Those are easy enough to install large speakers in, since the weights are individually removable. I have a thought on doing those that is a little different from what I’ve seen, although I doubt I am the first to think of this - other installs often remove one of the weights and then built a styrene shelf to support the speaker over the drive shaft and worm. I’m thinking - take the weight out, then slice off the two legs and glue those in on either side of the drive so that instead of a plastic shelf you have a metal one, at least it’s SOME weight. Other installs I’ve seen just shave some of the weight off, but if the whole top part is gone, a deeper enclosure can be used for better sound.

I also have a couple MDC RS3’s, mine have the P2K drive fromt he FA, and also run well. Plenty of space inside for sound. And an Athearn. Actually 2, one had very poor electrical contact and it still needs more work to run reliably, a second one ran fine right out of the box so I just swapped shells. Since they