Anybody have an idea of what paint to buy to replicate brick red as found in Ohio in the 1940s? Hate to be so specific but I know that some of you sharpies will ask! [yeah]
I am looking at Tamiya charts and see “dull red” TS33. Anybody tried that?
I’ve always mixed two or three colors to get a shade I like. Bricks come in many colors/shades, so I doubt brick was uniform in Ohio.
Here is an interesting site about brick making, with photos of bricks from many different manufacturers.
http://calbricks.netfirms.com/index.html
Mark
They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. So it is with modeling brick colors.
Once you paint your model with whatever red you are going to use, once you add the mortar with washes or other means, the color will change. My point is, use a brighter red than you think.
The other option is paint the building gray, then color the bricks with a colored pencil.
Something like this? It’s a Rust-O-Leum color.
Received my Walthers March 2010 monthly flier today. They happen to have an article on page 43 under walthers workshop on making brick look realistic. If you get the flyer or maybe go to walthers online and read it, it might help some. Might not also.
Amazing as I just read mine before logging on to find out what folks had to say!! That looks like the right way to go, along with the advice I received from Triarius in the Fine Scale Modelers forum.
Thanks to all. [bow]
This brewery (the “Arrowhead Ale” background structure from Walthers) was done with cheap rust-colored primer in a rattle-can from Lowes:
I used hydrocal for the mortar.
Mr Beasley - as usual, your material is right on. I have decided that the initial red color is less important than the next steps of mortar and weathering. Thanks for the tip! [tup]
Its hard to find in the U.S> but Humbrol brick red is in my opinion the most realistic model color for brick that I’ve seen.
My favorite brick wall:
You painted and then mortared, correct? Brushed it on and then wiped it off with a rag?