I ruined a FP7 w/ some red that wasn’t CGW. I need the correct red. Here’s the color Chicago Great Western GP30 It has to be spray paint- I don’t have an airbrush. I got my CGW decals today and it doesn’t list what the red color is. If I can’t get the exact what’s a close match?
Red is the hardest color to match. There are so many variations. Which red did you use. I thought Chicago Great Western was a standard red (like red #25), but the picture you pointed to looks a little like tomato red (orange hint).
Very hard to match color from a photo. The problems are, what filters may have
been used? (alters perceived shade), age or deterioration of photographic materials,
Lighting, exposure all play roles in what is seen in a photo. I’ve been burned on
this issue many times trying to match oranges and greens. Is there any way you can obtain a paint chip? That’s your best option, if possible. Of course, even paint
changes with age. Good luck.
Dingoix you might try Testors.com on their website they have several railroad colors in spray and bottles this might help, good luck. you might look at the model car colors in spray cans testors has some new colors several reds.
I would imagine that caboose red is probably a pretty close match. Floquil paints are laquer paints, so you will have to be careful if you’re painting a plastic body. I would recommend a light grey or white primer as red does not cover very well. Make sure the primer is thoroughly dry, (several days), before spraying the red. Then spray on the red in several thin coats. Floquil is flat/matte so you will need a couple of coats of gloss before decalling.
I’m going to primer it to hide where I ruined it. I actually tried to scrape off some paint when it was wet and I determined it wouldn’t work. The shell looks like crap now. Santa Fe warbonnet w/ some red covering various areas. I can order the paint, get this primed and by the time i get my paint it’ll be dry.
Decals will NOT blend in well if the surface you are applying it onto is matte/rough. It has to be enamel-smooth and glossy for decals to blend in properly.
If you apply a decal onto a rough/matte surface, it will dry out with a silverish appearance.
Just add one more step at the very end: After the decals have dried, seal it up with either another coat of gloss or flat finish (such as Testor’s Dullcote).
Can’t convince you to get an airbrush hm? [|)] Personally I think it’s a lot easier to lay down a thin, even coat with an airbrush, and you can actually mix and adjust your shade of paint before you spray.
so- prime, paint, gloss, decals, dullcote? Please let me know so I can order my paint in a week or 2. Can i use regular primer? (the stuff for metal, ect- stuff you get at the hardware store) i’ve got a bunch of that I’d like to use.
As far as priming goes, as long as the primer is plastic-friendly and the right color, you should be OK.
When I prime a loco shell for painting, I usually use a neutral color like light grey, which most colors can cover easily without having to use a thick coat. I don’t like using orange-colored primers like Zinc Chromate because some colors have a hard time covering that. I also don’t like using primers with fillers in it, which goes on thick and can obscure molded details.