Hi all, After 29 years of running silent, I finally took the plunge, and got 3 sound-equipped locos. I have a Proto 2000 GP20, which runs like a dream… However, I have two BLI locos, which run very nicely, have two different slow speed problems. My NYC Hudson takes off like a jackrabbit, and is hard to control at slow speeds. My SD40-2 starts off better, and runs smoothly (maybe too much gear noise). It’s problem is stopping. It rools to a nice stop, but after it stops, it immediately takes another 10 scale foot lunge before stopping again! Anybody else experience these problems with BLI? And… I know that QSI is coming out with a programmer. Would it weed out these problems? Thanks
I have about a doz BLI units now all steam, and I have noticed the samething with mind. My best ones are the two light mikes. Make sure you run them for a good hour by themselfs each way. This seemed to help alot.
Thanks! I’ll try that, and let you know. I haven’t really had a chance to really run them in yet.
My Cab-Forward is also sticky at low speed, despite the fact that it has hundreds of hours on the clock - it’s the lack of a back-emf feature in the chip (this was disabled by QSI/Broadway when the big legal dispute happened); steam locos, especially articulated ones, really do require a bit of bemf to get them started smoothly (unless you are very lucky, and have a Swiss-watch-like mechanism), what with all the rods and wheels to drive, with all their little gives and takes. All my other steamers run very smoothly as they start, even with a heavy load, as they have bemf in the chip. There’s an upgrade you can now get from Tony’s Train Exchange and other outlets, but I’ve been waiting months for mine to arrive, ditto for my three QSI-equipped diesels. Some day… Brian Plymouth, UK
I’m assuming you’re running DCC; if not, ignore all but the first item below:
First, do a factory reset, per the instructions that should have come with your engine. This alone may improve or even solve the problems.
Second, for the Hudson, adjust CV2 (start voltage) down.
If you still have troubles, the fix may depend on what software version your chips are. If they support Regulated Throttle Control, turning that on will almost certainly greatly improve your problem. If you have the “upgrade chips”, setting CV 56.4 to 1 will do this.
I’d guess they don’t: if they’re of recent manufacture, they’re probably Version 6, with RTC capability removed, blamed on the infamous MTH lawsuit. In this case, you’ll need to spring for an additional $29 or so per unit for the QSI upgrade chips. They not only allow RTC, but have several other improvements such as vastly improved lighting controls. They’re easy to replace, especially if you get the extractor tool. I don’t know about the SD40, but the Hudson just needs the tender shell removed. Instructions will come with the chips. Or, most places that sell DCC stuff, like Tony’s or Litchfield, will replace them for you at a nominal charge.
Here’s the QSI web page listing the chip part numbers along with which engines they’re for, along with various other info: http://www.qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/qchip/q-chip-upgrade-codes.html
You should have gotten some documentation with the engines that will tell you what you have. If not, use your DCC system to read back CV 56.255.1, the Version/Build readout. It will probably be 6.xx. The upgrade chips are 7.xx.
You’ll also want to bite the bullet and download the full DCC manual, either from BLI or QSI, depending on what you have. They’re huge and quite overwhelming at first, but experiment with one thing at a time and you’ll get the hang of it.
I’ve
DOESN’T SOUND like a typical QSI sound equipped engune. Did you (or someone else) modify the engine - or change the factory settings?
Normally the QSI sound equipped units take 5 volts just to start the engine moving on DC. Did you buy this engine used? If so, you have no free warranree. It’s a acting like it’s BLI’s 'Stealth product - A non-QSI unit. I’m suspecting you’re running on DC. If you’re on DCC something is wrong with the circuit boards.
In any case, If it’s NEW, return it to the factory’s Service Dpt. Oyherwise ship it to Tony’s Train Exchange for a 'look/see. Something is wrong.
It should run as good as your ‘other’ Sound equipped engines.
Broadway engines only run well at full throttle
You can’t run them slow or use them for switching the electronics dont allow it.
Well, actually, my J1d does much the same thing. The new upgrade to the QSI equipped locos should look after the jack-rabbit start. Once BEMF is added, the roll-out commences slowly just like the real thing. As of now, with further deliveries of the upgrades help up for some reason, I must wait for the Niagara and Hudson upgrades, maybe for several months.
I have played with CV’s 2 through 4, and have yet to find a combination that gets the J1d rolling smoothly. In fact, I must currently dial in about 12 just to get movement, and that is after doing a deliberate and methodical fine tuning on V-Start in CV 2.
I have upgrades in a K4 and in a PRR J1. Both have the new feature of rhythmic hisses to replicate the cylinder cocks open on roll-out, but they seem to take forever to gather speed. This is with a modest change to CV 3. I will have to actually dig into the manual and get the locos to start properly.
That’s very unusual. I don’t know what engines you are referring to, whether they’re running on DC or DCC, or whether they have the upgrade chips.
But I have 7 BLIs, running on DCC. The 3 that have been upgraded (Hudson and 2 Mikados) run very well at any speed, including crawl, with RTC on.
My 2 switchers and 2 F7s that haven’t been upgraded run fairly well at low speeds, without RTC. They’re as good as any of my other engines with decoders that don’t support RTC (Soundtraxx LCs & DSD-150s, and some NCEs).
You must have terrible trackwork, or badly set CVs, or something else wrong with the engines. I’d encourage you to work on them, perhaps getting upgrade chips, so they’ll work better.
What upgrade chips are these and where can you get them?
A company called QSI Solutions started selling chips to upgrade the decoders made by QSI and installed in BLI and other locos. They are literally take out the old and plug in the new. On their site (below) they list the many improvements, including Regulated Throttle Control.
QSI Solutions web site’s listing of the chips available: http://www.qsisolutions.com/products/techinfo/qchip/q-chip-upgrade-codes.html
There’s also a link on that page to find a dealer. Most charge about $29 each, plus shipping.
They can also be installed by many DCC dealers, such as Tony’s http://tonystrains.com/products/qsi.htm, or Litchfield Station http://litchfieldstation.com/xcart/manufacturers.php?manufacturerid=8, etc.
It sure is a brand new, factory sealed BLI with QSI sound unit. Nobody has modified it, and it does start at about 6 volts. I guess what will help everyone is I run on DC… My Proto 2000 w/QSI run like a dream, smooth as butter! It’s the two BLI units that have the problem. Is the chip replacement worth it? I’m still DCC dumb, but pretty computer hardware savvy. I’d try that!
Well that one gave me an epiphany! My BLI SD40-2 and my Proto 2000 GP20 have both RTC and Sound of Power features, the Hudson does not! I guess my Hudson was new/old stock? The chip is sounding like a great idea… Thanks again!
Since you’re on DC, there’s not much advice those of us using DCC exclusively can say, except:
There IS a way to do a reset on DC. I don’t know what it is, but the manual that came with the engine should tell you. If not, contract BLI, the seller, or try the BLI website at http://broadway-limited.com/.
As I recall, BLI recommends doing a reset on ANY new engine of theirs. There have been some previous posts where that was the fix!
They also recommend lubricating the engine before you use it. Some claim they don’t pre-lube in China to avoid the lube leaking out on the packing during storage and shipping. Whatever the reason, it’s worth a try. Again, the manual shows how and it’s not difficult.
If neither of those helps, try to find a club or friend with a DCC system to do a reset. While they’re at it, have them read out CV 56.255.1 which contains the software version number, which you may want to know later on.
It’s certainly possible there’s something wrong from the factory, but it seems unlikely that TWO engines would be defective, especially in different ways.
Of course, if you bought them from someone local, take them in for advice, adjustment, repair, or return – as others have stated, these problems are not common with BLI. If you bought them via mail from a DCC dealer like Tony’s or Litchfield, by all means call them. Otherwise, call BLI – they’re pretty responsive.
The chip replacement is def
For the upgrade chips, take a hard look at the list on QSI Solutions or Tony’s. There are a lot of choices for similar locomotives and maybe even different parts of a production run. For BLI, check the stock number on the box against the list of upgrade decoder chips. If you do not find a match that way, you will have to pop the hood and get the serial number off the chip.
Tony’s and others sell an extractor tool which will make it easier getting the old chip out. The last thing you want is to bust a prong off the old chip and leave it stuck in the socket. Follow all the instructions and most important, GROUND YOURSELF AND THE LOCO before doing anything including opening the plastic envelope that holds the chip. This microprocessor is sensitive to static shock and it does not take much to fry it.