Lumber Parts List for 5 x 10 layout bench

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Hi all. I’m a beginner looking for some help building a 5 X 10 layout bench. Does anyone know where I can get a list of materials ( wood length of cuts and number of pieces) in order to build my own 5x10 layout bench? I’m sure I can assemble the bench, I’m just not very experienced with cutting the pieces of wood needed.

I see some vendors on the Internet who will pre-cut and ship the parts to you…not sure if that would be much more expensive than ordering the pieces from a lumber yard. If I have to, I will take a crack at cutting the pieces myself…I just need to know how many pieces and what length to cut.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

2

Well, first you will need to draw pa picture of what the top of your table will look like,

Next you look at the picture (in your mind’s eye) to see what sort of frame work you will need to support this table. You have seen the ads in MR, and so you know what the underside might look like. LION puts his cross members every 16" inches apart, that way him can get a power drill in between them if he wants to. Too short a distance: no power drill, Too long a distance and the top may sag. You know you need runners the length of both sides of the layout, and the cross members every 16". You will also need legs. How tall will your table be?

5’x10’ is marginal fro reaching the middle, but that is not the LION’S affair.

You have two 10’ long edges (East and West) you have two 5’ long edges (north and south) . At 16" centers you will need another 8 pieces 5’ long. But that is rather long, If I were doing that I’d make those members “L-girders”

A 10’ span is a little long for just four legs, yet more legs will only make for more instability, and if you build them for this place on the floor, and then try to move them to that place over there, you will find that the floor was not a precisely build as was your train table.

OK, say the table is 42" tall, you would need eight boards 42" tall and butted together in an “L” shape.

LION would plan to have cross members from the bottom of the outside legs to the middle of the 10" side just to give more strength and stability.

LION would use all 1x4s for everything, and so would figure on

2 pcs 10’ long

10 pcs 5’ long

8 pcs 42" long

4 pcs about 6’ long for bracing.

What are you going to put on the top of your table? Plywood? You will need maybe three sheets. (A 4’x8’ table would indeed be easier.

Here there are pictures of the

3

In my opinion, you can figure out the wood you need pretty easily by simply drawing a top-down view to scale. You’ll need two girders for the long dimension and as many joists as you wish to connect them every, say, 16". 1X3 #2 pine should be sufficient for all of this with 1X3’s for legs.

The bigger issue for me is making the cuts. Again in my opinion,if you’re not experienced a box frame is surprisingly difficult to construct precisely. I’d counsel that you need a circular saw, and ideally a table saw or a chop saw, to assure a square cuts on your joists. A jigsaw will definitely not do it, as the blade is too flexible. Without those square cuts, in my experience a depressingly large number of joists will have noticeable gaps where one or both ends meet the girders. Those may not be critical, but they certainly are sloppy.

I’ve qualified the above because I’m no carpenter and built L-Girder benchwork, besides. I welcome any correction from those who can add the voice of experience.

Rick Krall

4

A table size of 5 x 10 will obviously need access from all sides. Normally a comfortable reach @ height of 42" is more on the order of 30". Are you sure this is the arrangement you want for a layout? If you have a dedicated space for the layout, there are far better options. I realize that there are reasons for a layout built as a large table, moveable within a shared space etc. But give some more info as to your actual use.

5

My [2c] would be to stay away from dimensional lumber as much as possible. I like to use 1/2" cabinet grade plywood as it is far more stable dimensionally than currently available dimensional lumber. It’s also stronger. I rip the plywood sheet into strips 3 1/2" to 4" wide and create my benchwork frame from these strips. I use carpenter’s glue and wire brads at all joints (the brads are there mainly to hold the joint until the glue cures). The various joints can be reinforced by using glue blocks cut from a 2" by 2". If the frame is built square, all joints are glued and the table deck glued to the frame, your benchwork will stay square and be nearly indestructable. Very strong table legs can be fabricated by glueing two narrow strips of plywood together in an “L” shape. If you don’t have a lot of tools, any lumber yard can rip a sheet of plywood into strips for you. A hand saw in a miter box could be used for all cross-cuts if that’s all you have. Otherwise, borrow a chop saw from a friend. Since your planned layout is 5’ by 10’, I would special order a 4’ by 10’ or 4’ by 12’ sheet of plywood so you won’t need to splice together pieces from a 4’ by 8’ plywood sheet.

6

Thanks so much to all of you for your replies. I truly appreciate the input. I’m getting the feeling that I should probably re-consider a 5x10 layout, especially since I would eventually like to add on to the layout as my experience level increases.

I definitely would like to create a layout with two lines, for two separate trains (with switches, of course) I want to create scenery with hills to accommodate a couple of trestles and at least one tunnel. My PRR passenger cars need a 22" minimum radius (HO scale). I was under the impression that I would be limited to a rectangular bench because of the above requirements. Based on what I have stated above, do any of you recommend a different bench size?

Again, thanks for the input!

7

When I returned to the hobby a few years ago, I invested in (3) reference sources that have proven invaluable, and I recommend you do the same:

  1. How To Build Model RR Benchwork (Westcott)

  2. Track Planning For Realistic Operation (Armstrong)

  3. How to Build Realistic Model RR Scenery (Frary)

I also took plenty of time, about 6 months off-and-on in fact, to plan carefully before I started construction. That approach, along with learning from others through these forums, has proven invaluable and prevented me from making major mistakes.

As to your question about bench size, I recommend that you size your layout to permit access to all points in the space you have available and develop your track plan accordingly. I can practically guarantee you’ll change your “wishes and druthers” if you follow that approach.

Rick Krall

8

Hi,

May I suggest an alternative approach…

Go to Hobby Lobby or Michaels and pick up some scale lumber. Given the size and minimal complexity of your project, you won’t need much. For a currently planned garage workbench, I used 1 inch = 1 foot.

Draw out your “blueprint”, and cut the wood to scale, and with the help of some fast setting wood glue, put the thing together.

This will accomplish four very important things:

  • It will allow you to easily and cheaply get to validate your blueprint, and to get to a design that works.

  • It will tell you what size wood will work, and exact dimensions needed.

  • It will enable you to put together an appropriate bill of materials.

  • It will familiarize you with the construction process and give you a visual path to follow.

9

OK, let’s step back and take a fresh look at this entire project.

Since you initially were talking about a 5’ x 10’ layout, you obviously have the space for that size layout.

But, first of all, how large is the overall space or room that will contain the layout?

It is important to note that you need to be able to reach in to the layout. Typically, reach is practically limited to 30 inches so if you are building a layout on a table, it ought to be no wider than 60 inches, or 5 feet. Therefore a 5 foot wide surface should work.

But, there are other practical considerations that limit the width to 48 inches. For example, most lumber yards sell plywood in 4’ x 8’ sheets. Since you are considering 22" radius curves, a 48 inch wide surface will permit 22" radius curves (44" diameter) with a 2 inch overhang on each side. So, 4’ x 8’ plywood sheets would be a practical and economical alternative. If you have the space, you could add another 4’ x 8’ sheet to the layout at a later date to expand to 4’ x 16’, or to design an L-shape two sheet layout.

Now, let’s say that you decide to initially go with a 4’ x 8’ layout. A cabinet grade sheet of 1/2" thick plywood is strong enough to hold the layout, and one side of the surface will be smooth for a nice layout surface. The legs, cross bracing, and other suppports can all be made out of 2" x 4" lumber. You could order that lumber from a lumber yard or big box store and have it delivered.

How are you going to cut it to fit, especially the legs and cross members. Find a neighbor with the equipment and skill and buy him a six pack to cut it for you. Assembly can be done with dry wall screws or nails.

Incidentally, you also need to decide on the height of the layout and that will determine the length of the 2 x 4’s that need to be cut for the legs. Most layout

10

There are a couple of issues to consider here, so while I could easily tell you what lumber to buy and what lengths to cut it to, I’m not sure you’ve quite reached that stage yet. Am I right in assuming that you have not yet designed your layout, but are simply looking to build somewhere to put it? If so, may I respectfully suggest that you have the cart before the horse?

If you’re contemplating a 5x10 table, you must have a good sized space reasonably available to you. My advice would be to sketch out the space available on a piece of graph paper, making sure you accurately locate all the “hard” features that can’t be moved: doors, windows, staircases, structural elements (beams, posts /pillars, etc.), and major appliances (water heater, electrical panel, furnace, etc). Make a bunch of copies. You can use these to sketch various layout ideas until you hit on one that suits you. Keep in mind that your layout can be on a table accessible from all sides, a shelf around the edges of the space, or a combination of both. This is also a good time to decide whether you prefer continuous running or point-to-point operations.

Once you have your design more or less firmed up, we can help you decide what type of structure will best support it.

11

Thanks Rick, and everyone else for your responses. I will definitely NOT be getting into this without taking adequate time to research and plan this out. The references you noted in your response will be very helpful, indeed.

Mobilman44: When i finally settle on the layout, I will definitely try building a scaled-down bench. That was something I was actually thinking about doing…I just had no idea where to look for scaled-down lumber - Thank you!

Rich: The usable space in my basement is 12 X 8. I’ve accounted for at least 1 foot on each side to allow for walking around the bench. Seeing that I’m about 5’5" tall, I think it may be quite a stretch (pardon the pun) for me to stick with a 5’ width. Thanks to the responses I’ve received in this forum…I realized that would cause a problem for me. I am now thinking that an L-shaped or an C-shaped bench (not curved edges, however) would be a better solution.

CTValleyRR: Yes, you are correct. I used what may be a backwards approach. I first looked at the available space I have and then decided that I need to build a bench in that space which was going to offer as much room to grow as possible. I am still in the planning stages of my layout (and probably will be for quite a while, maybe another 3 months). I know I want the following features in my layout (requested by my 11-year old son…[:)] )

  1. Second level with parallel tracks for two trains, a tunnel through a mountain/hillside

  2. At least one trestle

  3. Space for a town and train station

I chose the 5 x 10 bench because I thought that a contiguous surface area would accomodate the different features I’d like to have in the layout. For instance, if I chose an L-shaped bench, would I be able to accomodate two sets of curves, the outer 22" and a smaller inner curve? Would I be able to include the trestles, tunnels, etc? I guess what I need to do (as many of you have said) is put it down on paper…

12

Y2kdad – no need to apologize for ignorance, unless you are not willing to learn. Your fear of limiting yourself by having a bench that is too small is not without merit. That’s why I suggest that you design the layout first, then figure out how to support it. It doesn’t even need to be on a table at all. You can put a layout on extruded foam insulation board supported by a wooden frame. Or a plywood base. Or even an open grid, with only the actual track supported by a firm subroad bed.

Large curves are actually very easy to do when they’re around the edges of a room instead of on a table in the middle. If that’s your overriding consideration, try a shelf layout instead of a tabletop.

13

Thanks for your replies. I’m going to make sure I come up with a track plan and then post it here. That way, I can get some input from all of you. Thanks, again!

14

One more question: Can someone explain the pros and cons of using EZ Track vs “regular” HO scale track? I’ve been told by enthusiasts at local train shows that EZ Track limits your ability to expand your layout, etc.

Thanks

15

There have been a lot of good thoughts forwarded previously, but the question still remains: (See the MR for articles about using 1/2’plywoowhat is the area around your 5x10 space? If there are walls, then your 1 foot allowance to work around the table is inadequate. If there are 2 or 3 walls defining your area, then an around-the-wall with a penninsula to close the rectangle (If required) would serve you better in several ways. 1. It would provide for 2 levels of train operation, with a long climb up to the top without a helix. 2. It will provide a much longer run on each to 3? tracks. 3. It will get rid of the long reach in imposed by a 5 ’ table, since you could have a lower shelf of 18 - 24 " and an upper level of 12 - 18 “, allowing plenty of depth for scenery and track on both levels. 4. It will reduce the amount of lumber required, as each level can be supported by 48 " spaced angle braces from the wall’s uprights, with lateral 3” stringers between them. (See the MR articleabout plywood braces) .5. And best of all, You can have much broader curves if you get rid of the 60" diameter restriction of a table. Again, a diagram of the available space would allow a better assesment of possibilities. Best of everything to you with the project. JWH

16

The question isn’t EZ Trak vs. “Normal” track, but sectional track vs flextrack. Most people start off with some kind of sectional track, where you buy the track in standardized lengths and shapes and assemble your layout from those. Some of these, like EZ Track, have roadbed already attached to it, removing the need to lay your own cork or foam roadbed. Either kind of sectional track is somewhat limiting, because it is only manufactured in a certain number of shapes and sizes, but it’s much easier to work with. The track with pre-attached roadbed is the easiest to use, but has the fewest options on size and shape. Next is sectional track. Most people who have been in the hobby a while use sectional pieces for turnouts, crossovers, and so forth, but connect the with flextrack, which comes in pieces about a yard long and, as you can guess, can be shaped pretty much anyway you like. Still, it’s easy to get into trouble with bad track configurations if you’re not careful (the old adage “just because you can doesn’t mean you should” applies). Some folks actually hand lay ties and rails and spike it down manually, but that’s hardest of all to get right. So, yeah, technically, those enthusiasts are right, but as with almost evrrything else in this hobby, it’s a tradeoff, and only you can say what will be best for you.