Solid, “bullet proof” trackwork (and benchwork and wiring) is the backbone of a good layout. If you can’t run trains without repeat derailments, you will soon lose whatever enjoyment you have in the hobby.
I have used Atlas code 100 turnouts for literally decades, with the 2 or 3 failures that I can recall due to my mishandling. Yes, you need to file down the point ends a bit, and check with an NMRA track gauge, but other than that they are “good to go” out of the package.
Perhaps your rolling stock is more the problem than the track? I’ve had more derailments from KD coupler hoses catching on turnouts than any other single cause. Of course that was an easy fix. One other common problem is “forcing” the track into unnatural curvatures or changes in altitude. One error I made on the last layout was putting a turnout on a grade change in a high traffic area. It took me 4 attempts to finally getting it right.
I don’t recall if you are using sectional or flex track. In either case, make sure your joints give you a smooth flow from one rail to another. I solder all my joints, and exclusively use NS flextrack, and its been super reliable. Again, since you have old track, check with an NMRA gauge both before and after installation. If you are using track nails, and they are put in too deeply, they can pull the rails together.
The bottom line is: rip out the problem trackage, check it out carefully, and reinstall the used (or new) taking all the time and “redos” it takes to give you proper reliability.
I got it from a John Armstrong article, I think. He used map pins IIRC, which would also work. Heck, anything would work, although I wouldn’t use bread crumbs. [:D] If one wanted to avoid weird things on the layout, maybe some plastic oil drums could be painted a standard color and used as markers.
I’ve fixed a switch or two with a too-wide guardrail flangeway using thin plastic, as you suggest. I actually like thin brass for this, because you can bend the ends into hooks, bend the angles, spring the center in a reverse curve, and the whole thing will hold itself in place by tension, so that you can try it to see how it all works. One of my switches, an old Life-Like Atlas clone, was practically worn away (somebody must have run a LOT of trains for years). I fixed this by shaving off the whole guardrail and bending a new one out of old rail, then super-gluing it in. It worked.
I didn’t quite realize the situation - my response was predicated on absolutely minimal cost.
In any case, sectional track is at its best relative to flex track on constant radius curves. It is surprisingly difficult to get a constant, exactly 18" radius curve using Atlas flex track, especially if there are flex track joints part way through the curve. Unless the joints are soldered, the springiness of the track will eventually cause a kink unless the track mounting system prevents the track from moving at all. Therefore, where an 18" radius curve is needed, I am not above using sectional track.
OTOH, sectional track is at its worst when using numerous small fitter pieces to avoid cutting and fitting a single piece of flex track. It’s quite common to end up with kinks and gaps between the small fitter pieces, especially if laid directly on plywood. Cutting and fitting a single flex track to replace multiple fitter pieces (each less than 6" long) is very worthwhile. Where a combination of curved and straight fitter pieces are used, flex will give you a much smoother curve.
So when replacing sectional track with flex my priorities are: 1) replace fitter sections with flex; 2) replace multiple 9" straights with flex; 3) replace curves with flex whenever easements or non-standard radius is wanted.
Since some of your turnouts may be beyond repair, you might consider replacing those with handlaid - will be 1/2 the cost of purchasing new. Disadvantages of handlaid turnouts in your situation is that cork roadbed is not recommended under handliad track. 10ft long x 3.5" wide Homasote strips are available in the concrete section of Home Depot for $3.29 - $3.79, depending on where you live. These can be cut and fitted into an excellent roadbed for handlaid track - except for
Fred: Interesting thoughts. I have no 18" radius curves on the layout, all mainline trackage has a minimum of at least 24" except for two tight spots (22" on the summit of the pass and one other area) but I will use sectional track for that one curve I’m re-laying. And the fitter pieces are the main problem I’m having. That and wanting cork roadbed for cosmetic reasons.
I am downsizing the area I want to redo, and looking at the layout last night, I have a revised scheme.
Rip up the Stude/Dooley siding, because that is where the problems with short filler sections are. Nowhere else on the layout still has them. Relay on top of cork roadbed (just cosmetic, looking at it without roadbed is really bugging me) with flextrack and some sectional (after the siding right before the grade there is the tightest curve on the layout; 22" radii.) using flex for everything but that one tight curve. There is one slight curve on the siding, but it’s more of a slight bend (over 50" radii) than a curve. Turnouts (#4s to industries, #6s for crossovers and the DDWH interchange) will be reused as they are fine.
That is what I’m going to do. First step is to find track for it, then start taking up track and ballast, and by that time I should have cork roadbed (thanks Vincent!) to finish the project. Track will go slowly and carefully after the roadbed is laid on a smooth surface. During tracklaying I will plan for feeders; this section will become my test section on whether or not to solder the joints on the layout. Each section of track will have it’s own feeder, but the crossover section will remain soldered together as one piece and will only have one or two feeders.