I’ll have to check when I get home, I’m pretty sure the motors in my locos are EN22, but the other numbers might be different.
I wouldn’t worry about a 1 amp locked rotor current killing a decoder, unless I was using some ultra tiny Z scale decoder for some reason. Nearly any N or HO decoder can handle 1 amp continuous, with a higher peak, so no danger there. I just see a huge difference betwene the current draw of these “aftermarket” EN22 motors vs ones that came factory equipped in a loco - mine are not remotors, they are what these locos came with out of the box. They run so well, it is definitely worth using these same motors in other locos with poor motors.
I have 36 Canon EN22-R11N1B motors and one without a label. I’m a EE and I don’t do very well in ME fields so the best I can do with the mechanical ability with the micro motors is through my experimentation over the last 10 years or so.
Of all of the micro motors I’ve played around with the Canon EN22 is the most powerful for its size. Eldon Shirey, Motorman, sent me a sack full of motors the test over about an 8 year period. I tested about 30 or so and only ones I recommended to him for HO locomotives were the Canon EN22 and the Faulhaber 2224RS. The 2224RS worked the best for general operational performance driven with a decoder, the Canon EN22 had more power. The 2224RS is pricy, $45 at the time. The 2224RS were not new in the box but didn’t look like they had been used. I bought 6 of the 2224RS motors and they are in my Rivarossi articulateds. He got the Canon EN22 direct from Canon and charged $20 for one.
I stumbled onto the EN22-R11N1B accidently at BG-Micro for $1.19 about 10 years ago. I bought 35 from BG-Micro over about 4 months, should have bought everyone they had for that price.
Hi all, FINALLY, after moving, some health issues and the rebuild of my layout in a new home I’m ready to DCC my 1980’s Rivarossi Y6b.
I purchased a can motor as Mel recommended but I’m stuck on how to isolate the motor and decoder. Seems both front and rear trucks are screwed into the led weight as is the original motor. Easy enough to isolate the motor but I’m not sure how to isolate the trucks (they pick up rail power).
It’s the decoder that needs to be isolated. All the connections to the decoder except rail power need to be isolated. With an isolated motor such as the FS-266SA when you connect the grey and orange wires from the decoder it is safe.
I was cautioned about ten years ago not to say that the motor had to be isolated, but that the brushes have to be isolated. I think this is what Mel means, that the motor he specifies is safe because it has an isolated brush…? The feed up from the rails must go directly to the decoder, and then the decoder apportions what it gets to its components/drives for the locomotive’s other parts to use. The motor brushes can’t get any other power but from the decoder’s wire designed to drive the motor. Often that means isolating the entire motor from any contact with the frame.
