I am building a free-lanced switching layout and I am agonizing over what to do about background buildings on the backdrop. I have several industries that are serviced by the rail line that are background or out from the backdrop a couple of inches for depth. My problem is what to do about the buildings directly behind them so that I may add additional depth to the scene. I could spend a fortune buying commercially made background buildingsthat may or may not be what I had in mind. I have been thinking lately about making my own background buildings from various materials, ranging from cardstock to sheet styrene to strathmore board. The oly question is: how can I cheaply make windows and doors?
In the May, 2001 issue of MR there is an article totled “Urban Rail Corridor” by Jonathan Jones. This layout is roughly the same size as mine (except I have a 5 foot “fiddle yard”). I have admired the work he has done on that layout with his background buildings, which, by the way, are home made stacked chipboard, strip styrene and strip wood. Mr. Jones, however, is an architect; I know architects, they cut their teeth on building scale model structures and make a living at it. I don’t know if I can come up to the level of expertise that a professional like that of Jonathan Jones with scratchbuilt background structures and pull it off in a realistic manner.
Any light that may be shed on this subject would be helpful.
Tom the windows and doors on an architects ROUGH model are prinouts from AutoCadd and then glued to cardstock then to the walls for depth. In some cases they are drawn on the Cardstock. I am using an Evans Design Program to create ALL my background building details, windows, doors, signs, window dressing for stores etc.
Alternate plan “B” is a house design program from House and Garden. YOu can build the whole building
Walthers has a sections in their catalog for scratchbuilding and detailing parts. Also, don’t give up entirely on commercial kits. I find that it is usually more economical to buy regular structure kits and cut and paste them to make background structures. Take a large boxy building and put the two long walls side by side instead of on opposite sides, trim the side walls to the proper depth and you have on long shallow structure. Most of Walthers backdrop structures are cut down versions of 3-D structures and you can get one of the 3-D kits for less money than two of the backdrop kits. If you are willing to substitute a sheet of styrene for the rear wall of some of your foreground structures, you can use that wall as part of a backdrop building. Modulars are another good source for backdrop building materials.
I like sheet styrene, myself. I’m currently working on a switching layout with a similar design…some of the industries serviced by rail are building flats at the rear of the layout. Keep in mind that background detail doesn’t need to be complete and you can get away with a lot of simplification. Here’s a few suggestions:
Simplify! A background structure doesn’t need the fine detail of an achitectural model. Just a “suggestion” of detail will usually do the trick. A painted black rectangle for a window, or a simple thin door-size piece of styrene stuck on the surface will suffice.
Build in layers. Start with a large sheet of styrene (.060 or 1/16" thick offers good rigidity without reinforcement) and add .020" or .030" strips vertically to simulate reinforcing beams beams. You can “suggest” most detail with .020 or .030 thick sheet, even person-size doors.
For large factory style windows, try this. Mask and paint the window areas on the building flat black. Cut .005" or .010" clear styrene to the size of the window and spray the “back” side with Dullcote. Mark the panes on the “front” side using .030 striping tape. Paint some of your panes black to simulate broken glass replaced with a wood or metal panel. Stick the “window” onto the black painted area. The Dullcote on the glass and a black backing gives the window a nice grimey look.
In some places, don’t use windows at all. Try cutting a square opening for the window, then board it up with stripwood.
For large loading doors, cut out a large opening and glue some corregated styrene sheet inside the opening. This gives the look of a rollup door.
One way to scratchbuild structures that is both easy and economical is to use foamcore as your basuc wall and structure material. I’ve built literally hundreds of buildings with this stuff, and detailed them with cardboard and paper. I use the cardboard from the back of cereal boxes, as well as shirt stiffeners, etc. I assemble them with Aileene’s Tacky Glue. which works wondefully and you can purchase at any craft store, Walmart craft department, etc. Use straight pins to help hold the sides to gether, if need be.
Foam core is very inexpensive, an entire 4X8 foot sheet runs only around 20 dollars or so, and the store will often be happy to cut it into more manageable chumks if you ask them. You can find the stuff at any store that mattes prints and pictures for framing. Basically, it’s a layer of thin styrofoam faced on each side with strong paper. You can get it in either white or black. I now prefer the black, as it saves a step in painting interiors, lighting, etc.
I use cardboard and paper strips for detailing, especially things like pilasters, steps, etc. The one thing to keep in mind with foamcore, however, is you MUST seal the exposed foam edges with either a layer of paper, or tape, or a layer of acrylic paint befor you start to use any spray paints that are oil-based, as that will eat away the foam. Otherwise, you’re good to go.
For some examples of how to build foam and paper/cardboard,go here: I know it’s a wargaming sitre, but the techniques are the same regardless of what the finished structure is to be used for. Just scroll through the various articles for some excellent ideas and techniques for working with foam and paper, etc.
Yes, I have thought of using foamcore; an excellent material and it already has some depth to it due to it’s thickness. I’ll explore the site you gave in your thread.