I have noticed in the past few issues of MR some really nice looking building signs on the featured layouts. They are mainly on brick buildings,have black backgrounds with white lettering. The signs on my buildings are either decals applied to the brick and coated with decal setting solution or I printed them on my computer,mounted them on thin styrene and put them on the buildings, however they don’t compare to these signs.
Does anyone know how these signs were done? Is the lettering decals or rub on dry transfers? If they are transfers can they be applied so as to look like they conform to the brick and not just sitting on the brick? I have also seen various advertising signs on buildings that look really great. Is there a sourse for these? Also my buildings are already set in place. Will I have any problems putting these types of signs on my buildings?
Thanks for any help and ideas.
Bob
Hi Bob,
If you can specify which issues and stories you’re referring to we can try to get that information for you. You can aslo send an e-mail to the authors of those stories in care of MODEL RAILROADER. Address the e-mail to mrmag@mrmag.com and we’ll forward it for you.
For general advice on signs, including those painted-on white-on-black signs, see Jeff Wilson’s article on page 52 of the May 2001 MR.
So long,
Andy
Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
Andy- They were the featured layouts in at least the past three or four issues including the East LaSalle article.
Thanks-Bob
Bob,
Two tips: dry transfer letters and stencils!
I can’t claim credit for this info, I’m only passing it on. The original sources can be found in past MR articles.
First, try this technique using dry transfer lettering…
Most industrial signs such as company names are simple white letters on a black background, painted on the wall. You can paint your own sign on the wall…here’s how:
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Mask the wall section and paint a stripe of flat white on the side of the building, allowing for the height of the letters and adding enough space on top and bottom for a border. Allow the paint to dry overnight.
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Apply dry transfer letters (black, for good visibility). Rub the letters just enough to transfer from the carrier sheet to the wall. Don’t burnish as you normally would.
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Mask the white stripe to preserve a border (brick walls are easy…mask along a mortar line and make your border one brick row high) and spray with flat black paint. Allow the paint to dry overnight.
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Remove the border mask and, using masking tape or scotch tape, remove the dry transfer letters.
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Admire your work!
If you have a personal computer and printer, you can make your own stencils to paint fancy product logos. Here’s how:
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Find a photo of the product logo. There’s plenty of sources on the web! I found a photo of a Coca Cola sign with the famous script logo.
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Use photo processing software with an “edge detect” function to convert the photo to a line drawing.
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Print the line drawing on cardstock. (I cut an 8 1/2" x 11" sheet from a file folder and ran it thru my HP inkjet printer). The software I use has various resolution settings for printing…75 to 200 dots per inch. You’ll have to experiment to get a printout that’s the right size.
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Get a pack of x-acto blades and carefully cut out a stencil from the cardstock. A SHARP blade is important. Cu
I know the guys at the NAPM club and I’m pretty sure those signs were done using dry-transfer letterings as masks. The technique is illustrated in Jeff Wilson’s article that I mentioned earlier.
So long,
Andy
Andy Sperandeo
MODEL RAILROADER Magazine
Andy-Bruce
Thanks for the info and great tips. They sure are worth a try especiaal the dry transfer method. I had some luck using decals. Once applied and coated with decal setting solution I let then dry completely. I then would weather the building along with the decal. Once dry I took a piece of hobby sandpaper with a super fine grit and lightly sanded the decal allowing portions of it to chip off or fade a little. This way it looks as if had been on the building for a long time.
I also used this method for putting decals on wooden fences.
For other signs I simply used my computer and printer. I would choose a nice looking font and use a type size that was in proportion for the building. I then attached it to a piece of thin styrene using double sided tape,trimmed the sign with a sharp blade and cemented it in place. I then either use a colored pencil or drybrushed acrylics to tone down the white paper. The other option would be to print the sign on colored card stock that can be had at any craft store. With this method I also found that depending on the tpye of business that the building is and the computer program used (I use MS Publisher) you can also combine clip art along with the name of the industry.
Thanks again. Bob
I’m glad somebody asked for help with signs. I have been having trouble with homemade decals blending into the background. I put a sign on my Walthers Tri-State Power building and used the solvents for setting and melding but it still sticks out. I’ll try some of your suggestions.
Pop
Bob (and others)…
Follow the link for a photo showing samples of the stencil and dry transfer techniques described in my earlier post. (Cut and past to the browser’s “Address” box).
I also seem to remember an article about getting a paper sign, and sanding it tissue paper thin with fine sandpaper and putting it on the bldg with white glue. Never tried it tho
Don