i didn’t see a clear explanation of how to uncouple kadee couplers with a skewer in other threads, so i’ll ask again. If someone can point me to a good post, great
sometimes i insert the skewer, give it a little twist, the cars uncouple and move apart. Most times, it’s not that easy. Can’t figure out what i’m doing when it works.
i’m using a skewer, thin stick. I’ve filed an end flat and narrow.
i assume the skewer should be inserted between the 2 movable parts of the coupled, the middle of the 3 spaces when 2 couplers are coupled.
i’ve seen a video where someone soldered a small blade to a piece of rail to do uncoupling. Makes me wonder if my skewer is still too thick. But I’ve also seen someone with a relatively blunt skewer push it into the couplers and they come apart
i also wonder of some of the motion should not only be a twist, but also move to the side to push one of the couplers away from one another. Maybe nothing more than a push to the side?
of course all of this is a little hard to see in the small unlit space between the cars so there may be some “feel” to it.
I use the skewer, never really paid attention to how or what. It just works. It works the best on a straight section. I’ll have to go try it, and report back.
Mike.
EDIT: I do use my hand to take up the slack, so that the pick goes in between the hands of the couple, give a slight nudge to one side, and they easily come apart.
I’ve found that having a little slack in the couplers helps too. If I run into difficulties, I can just use the skewer to pull the coupler pin to the side, which is what I do with my passenger cars.
Guys,Sorry,but,I shudder at the idea of sticking anything between today’s high detailed cars…I’m even thinking about not changing out the couplers on my latest Atlas Master Line cars because of the details.
For me and my layout it’s magnets for hands off uncoupling.Its bad enough placing and removing these cars in my plastic plant boxes.
I’ve found that the skewer method works well when you have two Kadee couplers but when it’s a Kadee and a clone it doesn’t work as well. In the latter case the Rix tool has usually worked.
first push the cars together where the coupler knuckles compress against each other, insert the pointed end against the “outside” of the hooked tip of the knuckle as illustrated (the knuckle is the moving part of the coupler head). As the point slips into the coupler it will push the knuckle past the hook of the opposing knuckle. To assist the uncoupling you can push the knuckle tip outward with the point, when the knuckle tips are past each other you can now separate the uncoupled cars.
so a little side pressure may help
i just tried a string of hoppers and had no problems. I’ve had problems with box cars from various sources (ebay), assembled by others and with couplers that need height adjustment. I’ve replaced non-kaddee with both #5 and #148
what about kadee #5 and metal kadee coupler?
what about couplers of different heights (yet to be adjusted)?
Try a piece of metal with a couple of 90 degree bends in the end. It works a lot better. I made these tools using the design from Lionel Strang. Use it to grab the air hose. Make sure there is slack in the couplers.
I also have a lot of trouble with a pointy thing, tryed many. I made a hook kinda like Mr Wolf’s above. More of a ‘‘s’’ with a flat end,just hook an air line, works way better for me
Yes! The secret is to LICK the skewer before inserting it between the couplers…
I too have noted a failure rate with the skewer/swizzle stick/thin blade approach. I have also noted on layouts that feature these uncoupling methods that there is a mortality rate on the couplers from those guys who perhaps unconsciously press down rather hard while twisting, whether the coupler pocket is screwed in place, glued in place, or uses the old Athearn metal clip. Even if the coupler does not come loose, over time coupler sag can set in.
The concern about fine details is well placed, particularly if you add air hoses, cut levers, and other such niceties. Yet if you add those details (or like to buy cars that have them) you are perhaps the least likely to want to retain the Kadee or clone “elbow” beneath the knuckle.
Maybe John Allen knew best. We should never have abandoned the Baker Coupler. [}:)]
I’ve operated HO layouts hundreds of times and have uncoupled untold thousands more. The secret is slack. There must be slack or it just won’t work. Note that Kadee knuckles have a finger tip hook on them. Any uncoupler must get between the two finger tip hooks. It can’t do that without slack.
When I uncouple, I extend my little finger and rest it lightly on the top of one of the cars. Using gentle force, I push it towards the other car while at the same time inserting a bamboo skewer into the resulting gap between coupler knuckles caused by the slack action. I twist the stick to “pop” the couplers apart, rather than pushing down. After I uncouple, I let my little finger roll the car back a tiny bit if I want to leave the car there, or I will use it to push the cars back together and “delay” the Kadees if I’m spotting the car.
Generally, I prefer magnets, but some times you need to spot a car where there is no magnet.
BTW, one problem with the Rix Magnet wand is that they tend to stick to metal grabs, like the ones on some Walthers cars.
Also, for the darker areas of your layout, try taping a small LED light to a bamboo skewer. I’ve done it and it works so much better in the darker areas.
I use an uncoupling tool made by inserting a pipe cleaner into an empty ink tube from a ball point pen. The placement in the knuckles doesn’t seem to be as critical with the fuzzy end. When the fuzz wears down just cut off a small piece of the pipe cleaner to expose fresh fuzz. There must be slack in the couplers. No method works without it, even on the prototype.
All I’ve ever done is file a slight flat at the end of the skewer. What I have found is that this ONLY works well with real Kadees - Accumates and other knockoffs tend to not want to uncouple. Which is fine - any non-Kadee couplers I replace with Kadees anyway. The bit of a flat area lets the skewer get in to the overlapping edhe of the kadee knuckle and diengage it - this is the part that keeps the couplers from opening up all the way when passing over an uncoupling magnet as long as there is some tension on them.
