I have read in some MR articles and books about making your own track cleaning car with Masonite. I have asked at Lowes and Home Depot about this and they always refer to Masonite Hardboard. If this the same thing? Or is Masonite more rock like?
I have an old track cleaning car that will accpet the old abrasive cleaner and wanted to put it back in action. The Centerline cleaning car does great, but would like to have a car to do occasional passes. Wrapping a handi-wipe around a small brass rod is a show stopper at times.
Thanks. I guess the question is do I use the smooth side or the rough side? I am betting the rough side. Hmm, guess I can cut a piece off and see what happens.
It’s the rough side (waffle pattern) down towards the track. Usually there are a couple of long screws that come up through holes cut in the car floor to keep the masonite centered. Also some springs to maintain downward pressure on the masonite. I actually think some manufacturer sells a kit for this that you can use to retrofit old cars.
If you do not want to have to clean track at all then use metal polish. This has eliminated track cleaning on my layout for at least a year at a time.
I have over 2600 ft of track and it is a major pain to clean track. Using the metal polish has stopped any type of wiping the track or using the Masonite blocks in the train. No need for the Centerline cars or Wahl Hair Clipper oil.
I have used Blue Magic liquid, Mothers Mag Wheel polish and MAAS. Just about any silver polish for silverware will work. I DO NOT use Brasso as it leaves an oil film on the track. I want my track dry not covered with an oil.
Metal Polish is the answer to track cleaning UNLESS this is the only reasonexcuse you have to run a train!!!
Use the smooth side of the masonite. Even better is to get some drywall ‘sanding’ screen and glue it to the bottom of the masonite block It really does a very good job of cleaning, and does not get gunked up as fast. I cut 1/8" or 1/4" masonite blocks about 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" wide, and long enought to fit between the trucks of an old boxcar. I bevel the edges of the blocks so they do not snag on turnouts, etc. Now, drill a pair of 1/8" holes in the masonite blocks and epoxy some drill rod on brass rod(K&S) to the top of the block. Drill 2 more slightly larger hole in the bottom of that old freight car. You may need to add some weight, but too much will result in a car that cannot be pulled by your engine! I run this car around the layout with an engine at each end. This gives enough power to move the ‘sled’ and also you has good electrical pick up if one engine stalls on dirty track. Adding the drywall ‘screen’ makes this even better. The drywall screen is sort of a plastic mesh and does not seem to damage the rail. I also use the Tony’s Train Exchange track cleaner once each year to cut all of the gunk off the track(loaded with laquer thinner). Of course, metal wheels go a long way to keep the track clean!
Thanks for all the tips. Our layout is in N-guage with Atlas code 55 track. not sure how much abuse/rubbing I can get away with.
I think I will try all the ideas and see what works best. Be great if I only had to clean once a year, but I am afraid that won’t be the case, our house is pretty dusty (my girlfriend is ripping out walls and re-drywalling )
I am doing plaster scenery and generally making dust. The track only gets a cleanrag wiping in the area that I am working in. I DO NOT clean track just wipe it off.
It has saved me many hours of needless work.
Try it and if you don’t like it the go back to the old ways. Your choice!
i have made several of those track cleaning cars with the masonite (hardboard) in n and ho scales. they do work and reduce the time needed to clean track. i run one car in each train. i use 1/4" masonite for ho scale and 1/8" for n scale. the 1/4" masonite was made from leftover pieces from my facia and sky boards. the 1/8" was from an old picture frame that had a picture of my sister in law in it. oh well. i epoxied two 1 1/4" roofing nails on the smooth side of the masonite pieces with the rough side down after cutting them just a little wider than the rails and a little shorter than the wheelbase of a 40’ or 50’ boxcar. then i drilled two holes through the floor and weight of the cars to allow the nails to pass through the floor without binding. bevel the ends of the pad so it will not snag a switch point or unrven rail joint. place the pad into the holes and run it around your layout with an engine pushing. i then run one in each train thereafter. clean the pad by rubbing the pad across some fine 150 grit or finer sandpaper to remove the dirt. masonite comes in 4’x8’ sheets which should keep you in cleaning pads for a long time
)