I am trying to decide on which product to use for my table top? I know that 3/4" birch plywood would be the best to use but the price is high compared to 3/4" MDF. Has anyone used MDF for their layouts and if so what are you opinions of this product?
Thank you
Neither, just regular B/C plywood is fine. MDF is for vertical applications.
I use half-inch (15/32) BC, B side up.
Bob, I actually do use 3/4", but I weigh more than you.[swg] I also have a bunch of 7/8" tongue and groove subflooring left over from the construction of my house, that I will be using on my layout.
1/2" is ok if you give it enough support, but in terms of cost, the extra support material needed may offset the savings.
One more thing about MDF, it’s not very good for holding screws or nails.
Are you sure about the weight, Elliot? I came in at about 250 the last time someone weighed me.
I use steel angles to stiffen the plywood. But my layout is around the walls anyway; and I rarely need to stand on it. When I do, I often put another piece or two on top to spread the weight or make sure I’m over a support.
I used the birch. It is sweet and I believe it has fewer voids. I know a shop that buys it in bulk so I got a good price on it. Otherwise I’d have probably used the same BC that the others suggest. I used 27 sheets of it. You’ll probably cover it up in the end anyway. If not, then you might want to get the birch if you don’t have a lot that you need to get.
Bill
Yeah Bob, I’ve got you beat by a bunch. I’m tippin the scales at about 325 these days, and that’s down about 40 from my max a couple of years ago.
Birch is commonly used in quality cabinets that ultimately get painted. It is about the least expensive veneer available, and is known for it’s very fine grain. Bill is right, it’s nice, but unless you can get it for bargain prices, there is no reason to choose it. Most of it gets covered with trains anyway.
Isn’t that the whole point.[swg]
Bill, 27 sheets? How big is your layout? Mine is 38’ x 46’, but I’m not sure that I will have that many sheets when I’m done. Of course I don’t just put down whole sheets most of the time. I usually cut them into 8’ strips in 4" increments, placing the strips where the track goes. Single track is 4" wide, double track 8" and so on.
What do you use to fill in the gaps between the plywood?
I’ll be going back and filling in with foam to form contours for the scenery.
In using that much plywood maybe he is talking the Baltic Birch which is a much smaller size than the 4x8 sheets.
On my layout I used construction board. I guess it’s the same type as mentioned above.
MDF is very suitable for vertical mountain building and though not suited for nails or screws, can be glued easily. If using hotglue it’s fast and easy and MDF is very good to saw and shape. It can’t hold much weight though, so if you use it as your layout groundplate, be sure to mount a good support beneath it.
If you have a good support structure and not a moist environment, MDF is a good and cheap working material even for the base.
Doug and Big Boy,
They were 4x8 sheets. The space is not big but the layout has 3 levels. One of the levels is dedicated to storage. I have alot of curves 60" radius and larger so there was more waste than if I’d have cut it up into 4" wide straight pieces. My narrowest single track sections are on 5" wide. I was not worried about being thrifty in cutting. I cut to get the least amount of splices, not to get the most pieces out of one sheet. I used most of the waste for splice plates, with a few large pieces left over in case I have any modifications or adjustments.
As previously stated, 15/32nd BC plywood with B side up is more than adequate for strength and appearance and is much less expensive than the alternatives.
I think any is fine. Just seal with latex or shellac (sp?) to minimize warping and water or bacterial damage. Just ensure the right supports and thickness. There are wood manuals that have those forumlae
Gee Bill, the more I think about it, maybe 27 sheets isn’t all that much. Personally, I’ve lost count, partly because I had bought so many sheets when I lived in my previous home.
I was just getting the layout started, and we decided to move. Being just at the benchwork phase, it was an easy tear down. Then I just recycled EVERYTHING, screws and all.
I have tools and time, but not always money, so I try not to waste any plywood. When it comes to curves I’ve used 3 different methods.
First is use the full sheet and cut out the curve, using the drops for a variety of other elements.
Second is the segment method, using either wider straight pieces, or small curves cut from the previously mentioned drops.
Third is a special method that I used on the helix, where I took sheets of 3/8" BC and 3/8" CD cut them into strips, then into segments, lapping and gluing all the way up. This method would work equally well for a simple curve, but it is more labor intensive.
The first photo is of the next curve to be built on the layout. The piece of plywood 8’ x 3’, and will have to have a couple of small pieces added to the ends to form a 10’ diameter curve. There will actually be 5 tracks with the largest being the 10 footer. No, it’s not the Horseshoe Curve, just 2 mains and 3 yard tracks.
This next photo is an example of the segment style of construction. Some pieces were straights with angled ends, others were curves. One use for scraps is glue blocks for connecting the segments.
Finally the helix and it’s lapped segments. First under construction, second completed, and third close up so you can see the wat the pieces went together.
