I work in a factory. About 90% of the fasteners used on the assembly lines and tooling are socket head cap screws (Allen heads). Allen screws can be easily tightened / loosened and with a ball end wrench can be done on an angle. Why can’t these fasteners be incorporated into our hobby. I especially dislike the tiny slotted head screws that are made in different slot widths. Cost would be the only reason I can think of why they are not made.
I suspect that cost is the driving factor. Also, consider consumer products that must be assembled. Inside the little parts bag is usually an Allen wrench. Why? Because most people, even modelers, don’t have Allen wrenches. I have several sets, but that’s only because I’m a bicyclist and I frequently need them.
I used to always visit one particular vendor at train shows in Massachusetts. He had a large stock of small screws, nuts and bolts, and a huge selection of Accurail kits. I always brought a spreadsheet of all my rolling stock so I wouldn’t get duplicates.
They are available.
The socket-head-capscrews used in industry are usually very high quality. Cheaply made socket head capscrews are the worst.
When I was involved in 1/25 scale slot cars, almost all the fasteners we used were socket-head types. They worked very well.
There are two advantages to socket head capscrews that I find appealing:
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The driver will not fall out of the screw.
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There is no need to “push down” on the driver to get more driving force.
-Kevin
Socket-head screws have a higher profile than say, a pan-head screw. For certain MMRing applications the former might suffice. However, there are certain screws that you would want with a low-profile - e.g. those located on the bottom-side of a locomotive. Otherwise, the chassis would require a countersunk hole(s) in order for the socket-head screw to be flush with the surface. That’s an added expense/step for machining the chassis; whereas a pan-head screw would be a far less expensive alternative.
And, for screws: I much prefer a phillips-head to a slotted screw.
Tom
The idea behind the yet to be improved upon Robertson screwhead.
The tiny fasteners we use could be adequately torqued with just your fingertips is why nobody worries about the head design.
Put another way the head on a socket head fastener would be large enough relative to the shank that an actual driver would be superfluous.
The screwdriver or nutdriver is only required because your fingers are too fat.
I prefer robertson in everyday life. I have on occasion found philips head suitable for modelling.
Anything is better than slow.
There are many improvements over Robertson square drive screws.
The only place I have seen these used in an industrial application is motor-home interiors. In this application the ability to have the drive tool engage the fastener while turning is a positive, and the semi-lock-on property is also beneficial.
-Kevin
If you want small socket head screws, here is one source:
https://www.microfasteners.com/home.php?cat=606
Dave
Are the screws you mention small enough for this hobby? For instance, can they secure trucks to a train car? Annoying that you can’t get 2-56 screws often at HD, but the demands is not large enough to justify the supply.
That is the first thought I had.
6 things immediately came to mind for where higher screw head profiles would be an issue,
the gear covers on bottoms of trucks of Walthers HO scale SW1 & on the frame below the drivers of steam locomotives such as Bachmann’s 0-6-0, for a couple examples.
and
crankpins on forward drivers of steam locomotives.
and
The cab attachment of Hartland Locomotive Works’ G scale Mack and Sparky locomotives would have to be reengineered & also the motor block bottom plate retaining screws.
and
the screws holding together various G scale power trucks for diesel and electric outline models, those scew heads all have to fit in what clearance is available below the floor and above the motor, and, below the motor and above the railheads.
and
coupler attachment on Walthers HO scale passenger cars & other passenger cars which have drawbars extending back above outer axles on trucks so cars can stay coupled around less than 4ft radius layout curves.
and
N scale.
I order 2-56 screws off Amazon.
I am so lucky to have Skycraft Parts in Orlando.
They stock screws all the way down to 0-80 in Nylon, Stainless Steel, Brass, and Grade 5. They also stock metric screws down to less than 2mm.
I order brass 2-56 screws in lots of 1,000 from a company in Texas that has always provided a high quality product.
-Kevin
I stock 2mm flat and cap head Allen screws for my kitbashing projects. Back in 2004 when I went with a G gauge garden railroad the track joiners used 2mm Allen screws and I quickly found out why. The Allen screws rarely fall off the wrench when installing them, if they fall off in the garden they’re goners.
Actually I stock both 2mm Phillips and Allen screws, I’m not fond of slot head screws that small.
Mel
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
For hand driving, including power hand tools, the original Robertson screwhead has no equal. Americans often get square socket head screws which are not to the Robertson design and compare those to other designs.
Name one competitor to the Robertson and state why it is equal to or better.l
Mind you, Robertson screwheads have the same drawback as Allen head or hex head: the head has to be taller than for slot style, whether Phillips or common. Drywall screws are a good example of the slight advantage offered but the main reason for Phillips head drywall screws is the same as for the original design: they are actually specifically designed to torque out the driver bit, the opposite of what you want for most applications.
Hard to beat the common slot head for very shallow flat headed fasteners.
I am sure you would, but I have no desire to feed into whatever you are doing, and I will not participate.
You can stop now.
-Kevin
Happy to oblige. My recommendation before we even get started. I attempt to respond only positively to your posts and ignore the rest. But if you respond to my posts in a manner I perceive to be negative or contradictory or, frankly, personal then you may expect my reply post in defence.