I have been thinking of diffrent layouts to repace the one I have now. I’ve heard that the scenic ridge is a bust, so what about mod u rail? If I used the same trackplan would it… be better than the same size of ply wood and pink foam? better to already have the scenery stuff?
I’d suggest you look closely at the Beer Line article that started with the January MR. It features a sectional and re-configurable design that is very cleverly designed and well executed. It might answer a lot of your questions.
Lee
I’ll second that. I don’t know how expensive the Mod-U-Rail system is, but surely it must be cheaper to buy the materials and build it yourself. The Beer Line article is pretty easy to follow and you don’t need a shop full of power tools to build it, either.
Why pay somebody else a lot of money to assemble the materails that you can do by yourself? Purchasing any type of pre-assembled collection of materials such as the mod-u-rail kit is just wasted money.
I did one modurail module because I have limited space and really no tools. It was a nice learning experience and I plan on detailing further and use as a photography module. I remember someone on here priced it out and you don’t save much if any money buying the modurail kit. It is a nice feeling though getting everything in one box.I do believe there are other alternatives for a layout like the others have said.
You’d do better to learn how to build a layout yourself, from lumber. The skills I picked up (from MR articles) when I was a teen have served me well for years, and not just in building model railroads, either.
I don’t know about this mod u rail other than what I have read on this posting. From that, I aqm thinking this stuff is like buying kitset furniture and going at it with a screwdriver tp produce some thing useable in your home.
Well, I guess that’s OK, but I would want more input into how my layout is functions and is presented so doing it for myself is a more desirable road to take. However, as always, to each his own and as long as you enjoy what ever experience you choose then that’s just fine.
Bruce
I am not sure which scenic ridge you are referring to…a couple of years ago the kit by Woodland scenics, I believe, won an award so apparently some of them are supposed to be good. I wouldn’t go this course myself plus I don’t think tunnels look too good on a small layout. I am not familiar with mod-u-rail so I don’t know if this is best, but I agree that having creativity with your own layout is a good way to start.
The primary advantage to Mod-U-Rail is that you don’t need any tools other than a screwdriver. If you don’t have access to any tools that might be a good route.
I built mine in 2x8 foot modules that I built myself. They are bolted together, so that I can move it if I ever have to, or I can change out a single module if I feel the need for a rebuild.
I use the Mod-U-Rail stands for my benchwork. While I can not speak for the entire scenery sets, I can say with certainty that for a carpentry klutz like me the Mod-U-Rail stands are a life-saver and worth it. The cost for a three foot long by one and a half foot wide stand is currently $29.99. You can see the kits and stands at http://www.woodlandscenics.com/items.cfm/MURModuleKits .
Here’s some shots of my modules and layout using the stands. I add a backdrop and paint the stand, then plop styrofoam on top for scenery.
The Mod-U-Rail system System is not for the faint of heart. But it gives alot of what you would need to start a layout. The weakest part is the fact that’s it based on thin extruded styrofoam which may or may not require reinforcement if you are going to run heavy trains on it.
As for the expense, the basic modules go for between $109 and $125. The stands needed to support the modules go for $27 to $32. You may be able to get wood cheaper but you’re likely to need someone to help you hold it while cutting it to size. Witht he Mod-U-Rail you can do everything yourself.
Personally, it’s right for me since I have no one to help me put wood together. But I don’t need help to do anything with Mod-U-Rail. All one needs is a screw driver (it would be better if you have an electric one) to put the stands together and foam knife with extra blades and some sort of heat cutter to deal with the sheets of Woodland Scenics styrofoam for every thing else. As for adhesives, Elmers does a great job of gluing the various parts together.
However, I would suggest that anyone who wants to try the system buy one straight module and try putting it together first.
Irv
I second the use of Mod-U-Rail stands by themselves. They are inexpensive and serve the purpose of sturdy benchwork for those without the talent or tools to make their own. They also offer corner stands for $34.99. The only limitation for me would be the maximum height of 35 1/2 inches. You could buy longer legs if you need more height.
Right. Keep in mind they’re only 3’ tall. Making longer legs still requires buying wood and using drills/saws/tools.
While I would not discount the usefullness of the Mod-U-Rail system if you are short on workspace, or a bit shy regarding your carpentry skills, overall I would say that in general this approach is far too limiting and very slow in execution, as well as limiting in your layout’s potential.
The large amount of individual elements necessary to fabricate just a single small module is going to make it very slow going. I’m far from being any master carpenter but I could certainly build the basics of a fairly extensive, around-the-walls layout base to the point of being ready to start laying down all the trackage in a week or two, if I were pushed. A similar accomplishment using the Mod-U-Rail system looks to me as likely to take anywhere from many weeks to some months. That’s a long time not to be running any trains more than just a few feet back and forth.
Other shortcomings that I suspect are that the system is not well adapted to creating return loops in HO, something that would never be a concern if you are fabricating the benchwork yourself. Likewise, the continuity of terrain and backdrop (particularly matching colors if done piece by piece over time) when done only in 3-foot sections, could result in a very disjointed looking affair. Also, consider the number of obvious breaks in the scenery resulting from use of numerous small modules, as compared with solid 8-foot runs using standard foam panels. These breaks may be narrow but with so many modules, there is a significant potential for flexture resulting from the wood changing dimension with the seasons causing them to open and widen.
Now I’m not saying that the Mod-U-Rail system can’t produce a passable layout but I don’t believe it can begin to approach the versatility one has when using the standard approach to hobbyist-built benchwork and terrain.
CNJ831
Looking at the WS page for the kits and checking the bill of materials your looking at $200.00 just for the corner module and stand.I have just over $200.00 in material;s for my basement empire and it is a heck of a lot bigger than that corner module.
Most of the DIY stores here in west Michigan will cut the lumber for you for very little or even no cost.I find the stands interesting but they are not wide enough for me (I’d want them at least 24" wide).As for the height it would depend on how tall the average viewer of my Ironrailed master piece would be as there are ways to extend the legs without buying a lot of lumber to do the job.
If you should decide to buy the Mod-U-Rail modules at least make your first purchase a avariable speed battery powered drill of at least a 14V size or one of the more powereful battery powered screwdrivers because a manual screwdrtiver is probly the quickest way to not enyjoying this hobby.