Any thoughts on the tools everyone should have to get the job done right!
I am confused…is that a question? Or are you very excited?
There are alot of tools that a modeler needs to do the job right, and for the most part it depends on the skill level and modeling area that modeler is interested in.
As there are my facets to this hobby (Electronics, Soldering, Woodwork, Scenery, Tracklaying, Scratchbuilding, Painting, Decaling, Kit Building, Computer programming…etc) it depends on which one you are interested in.
David
I’ll start a list, if that is what you are asking.
a. NMRA gauge
b. Xuron rail nippers
c. Xuron sprue cutters
d. Opti-Visor (I use 4X magnification)
e. fine offset needle-nosed pliers
f. set of needle files
g. set of fine/jeweler’s screwdrivers
h. set of about 10 different acrylic paints and artist’s brushes
i. 35 watt soldering pencil with fine tip & associated materials
j. bag of bamboo skewers to move throwbars and to uncouple cars
…is this what you are looking for?
Great list so far… I would add the following:
- Right angle tweezers
- Locking (open) tweezers
- Locking (closed - dunno if this is the right term…the ones that spring closed without tension) tweezers
- Hemostats (curved and straight)
- Needle drivers (toothed and TOOTHLESS – the german ones are the best!)
- Kadee Coupler Gauge Tester (don’t place on live track!!!)
- Dental picks (broad, fine and flat!)
- The CHOPPER (I, II or III!!! This is a MUST!)
- Xacto Knife
- Wire cutters
- Wire stripper
Just the things I use often off the top of my head (not including disposables like glues, etc.)…
Brian
P.S. I also find a holder (block of wood with 1 1/4 hole in it x 3) for glues and paints AMAZINGLY helpful for klutzes like me…
Dremel tool.
Thread on what’s in the tool boxes:
http://www.trains.com/TRC/CS/forums/778935/ShowPost.aspx
My dremel, drill, and electric screw driver have their own boxes. My track laying tools have their own tool box, as do my painting tools.
In addition to the pen vise, rail cutters, and needle nose plyer. My tool box gets a pair of wire cutters (for piano wire), two other needle nose plyers of different sizes and teeth. Two different size vice grips. small hammer & countersink. 3 regular open end wrenches 1/4"-3/16" 3/8"-7/16" and a 1/2"-9/16". Center punch. Set of screw drivers flat and phillips (size from 000 to 2), minature socket/wrench set, dental picks, three disecting needles, tweezers & tongs (5 or 6 different heads/angels), two NMRA Mark III templates, Kadee coupler height gauge (2), scale rulers HO & N, pencils, razor point marker, tooth brush, a zillion jewlers files & tiny wood rasps, 1 regular small file, solder sucker, taps for 2-56, 1-72, 0-80, & 0-90, Kadee coupler plyer, three small grippers (two, three and five prong), magnet, positionible flashlight, magnefying glass, saftey goggles, Atlas razor knife & track saw, 5 various Xacto knives and extra blades, regular single sided razor blades, set of aligator clips, multi-meter, 1 set of AAA batteries, set of Labell grease & oil… Umm seems like I am forgetting something.
Oh yeah - sissors (4 different sizes).
needle nose pliers
motor tool (I recomend Dremel)
N.M.R.A. guage
Kadee (or Micro-Trains if you’re in N or Z scale) coupler height guage
modeling knife with #11 blade
set of needle files
large file (Wahl sells a cordless, rechargable filer-sander that works great! They also have a corded one.)
35 watt soldering iron and roll of rosin-core solder (NOT repeat NOT acid-core!!!)
Based on my own workshop, I would add a small refrigerator (fits under the workbench - keeps adult beverages cold); also a couple of ashtrays and spare lighters so one is always within reach.
Disclaimer: These suggestions are only intended for those who partake of these vices (except that a lighter can be used for heat-shrink tubing), and are not intended in any case for anyone under the legal age of consumption.
Tom
Hi WNCOn30
Steel MRR scale rule, very sharp hobby knife, Olfa ‘P" cutter, razor saw, miter box, 4’ engineers square, set of jewelers screw drivers, pin vice, sprue cutter, auto points file, putty knife & paint scraper, one of those hand belt sander things, tiny to small drills
Sable artists paint brushes 00, 000 & 10-0 fine liner good quality 2" & 4" house painting brushes
2"&4" cheap carp throw away paint brushes.
Would be the absolute bear minimum you could get away with for railway modelling work in reality there are a lot more tools that are needed and some it would be nice to have it depends what you are doing as to what you do and don’t need.
EG I would be [censored] without a jewelers loop 10x but a lot of people can get by without one or down around 2 or 4x and I have no use for the kadee coupling set up tools but others do
regards John
[#welcome]
As you can see, tool collecting is a sub-hobby. I would emphasize safety.
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Get safety glasses. Even using hand tools, i.e. you nip off the end of a rail and it goes flying.
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If you’re working in the basement, garage, or outside make sure your power tools are pluged into a GFCI protected outlet. If you’re not sure then buy one that plugs into a regular outlet.
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Have adequate lighting.
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Have adequate ventilation when using glues, solvents, paints, etc.
Enjoy
Paul
The ONE tool that I could NOT have done without is my trusty Craftsman cordless drill. I finally bought a decent soldering iron. But as far as the bare necessities:
- Pin vise
- Xacto knife
- Razor saw
- Dremel
- Rail joiner spreader (Esp if you use Micro Engineering rail joiners for code 83 track. You’ll thank yourself for making one. Take a section of rail about 2" long and grind/file the flange to a sharp, gradual point. When the rail joiner is pressed on, it spreads the joiner slightly, making them a lot easier to slide on your track.
- Needle nosed pliers
- The afore mentioned Xuron rail nippers. And ONLY use it to cut rail – NOTHING ELSE!
- Do yourself a favor and get the cutters especially made to cut hardened wire. You’ll ruin regular wire cutters in short order cutting that stuff.
- Liquid styrene cement.
- There are clamps (called the “Right Stuff”), that hold your building walls at right angles while you’re cementing them. Get a couple…they’re worth it.
- A cheap ‘Lazy Susan’. You know, those spinning plates that you use on the dinner table. They’re great for painting your cars, locos, etc. You can turn your model without touching it.
- And a set of small files.
- And above all else, safety goggl
Hot glue gun and a lot of glue sticks, if you use foam for your scenery
If you are using plywood, you’ll be thankful to have a good sabre saw. While you are at it, a chop, band and table saw will all find use in your train room at various times. A belt sander or two is also useful, the stationary and the portable kind. You’ll keep peace in the family i fyou have a good shop vac or two as well.
For under the bench work, I have a light weight strap on LED light that is mighty useful too.
Joe Daddy
Just about everything one the list so far is needed. Having a bandage or two around for when you make those stupid decisions to cut yourself helps also. Don’t ask me how I know.
I like the dremel cut-off wheel for most of the cutting then file down the rail until smooth. takes some pratice time to get used to but it works great.
Hot glue gun and sticks.
Sharp blades for the exacto knife.
I second Ironrooster’s and tohowalk’s must haves.
A lot of cash, so you can hire highly skilled craftsmen to take care of all that pesky “little stuff”.[(-D]
Actually the above lists are good. It is convenient to have a battery operated moto-tool. This makes laying /adjusting track much easier…and a lot of cutoff disks.
Tilden
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If you spike your own track or even use latex caulk, the Ribbonrail radius tools are great to eliminate kinks.
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It is always nice to have an Ideal Wirestripper when wiring up things.
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Micro-Mark sells a modified Xuron tool that holds the spikes while pressing into your roadbed.
almost forgot-only use the rail nippers; if you get them; for cutting rail and ONLY RAIL!!!
Don’t do what I did and use them on rail, and then on a plastic kit. Then I tried to use them on rail again and only made a dent in the rail; and bent it ALL out of shape!!!
unless you’re like me; who can’t drink alcohol any more because of my medication that I’m curently on.
And as for smoking; I’m sure you’ve heard enough opinions about that; so I won’t tell you the way I feel about it. I’ll just say- PLEASE QUIT!
Really? A plastic kit? Were they Xuron rail nippers, pretty much the hobby standard? I find this post simply amazing.
There are a few things that will damage a pair of diagonal cutters.
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Cutting music wire (Spring Steel) I learned this 51 years ago at age 11 building my first U-Control airplane. Dad explained why.
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Cutting live wires. I learned this lesson about 35 years ago. By then, I knew why. They do make good wire strippers after this, though. . .
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Using them as a pry bar can damage the cutter alignment.
I bought a pair of Xuron’s and received that warning at the time of purchase. After having used them for pulling spikes, cutting a lot of copper wire and trimming sprues, I thought I had better buy a new pair to keep for just cutting rail. That was a year ago. The original Xuron pair is still sharp, cuts rail straight and like butter. The new pair? In my other tool box, in reserve waiting for the day when I cut a tortoise wire or peco wire by mistake. . .
This one is close to going on my Urban Legends list which can be found on my blog.
Joe Daddy