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Modeler’s Spotlight Video–Inside Cody’s Office for June 28, 2012
hey Cody good modeling tip of the week i will try it out!!!
Willam Shepard is correct. For using a heat gun with shrink tubing, a reflector is the way to go. For me, I use a Bravo 1 Charlie (a Bic lighter), just be sure to use the blue part of the flame to avoid the tubing from catching fire!
Before now I have never heard of electrical shrink tubing, great information!! Thank You!!
Terrific episode, Cody, and thanks for participating as our featured speaker during the TLR convention on Friday night. You did (as before in Duluth four years ago) a fine job and were a welcome addition to the weekend festivities.
As usual very nice. Cody is great for this format.
Cool episode Cody. I liked seeing the photos of the repair facility, the quarry, and the assortment of cars.
Alexander
Hay Cody You can used a hair dyer for shrink tubing it work too and not so hot
I have seen the new Ahtearn Genesis GP 9s in various railroads such as the Erie Lackawanna. How many GP 9s did the Erie Lackawanna have on its roster?
That was a great episode. I was wondering when a new one was coming. I liked the prototype info. It will help a lot with some future projects I’m thinking of. The mining and car repair shop would make for some great articles in the future.
How is the home layout coming along?
I think that Cody forgot to show, or mention that the shrink wrap tubing needs to be cut and placed onto one of the two wires to be soldered together prior to the wires being soldered together as usually the two sides don’t have open ends. Once the wires have been soldered together then the shrink wrap can be moved back down the wire, over the solder joint and shrunk into place using a heat source.
Another option for shrinking insulation sleeving is a heat gun used for shrinking the covering on model airplanes. They have two heat setting and are hot enough to shrink the tubing, but run cooler than the one you used, which is designed to remove paint. The model airplane heat guns are much less likely to start a fire or melt your favorite model.
Nice show Cody and David I am glad to see the extended absence was due to attending an event and not an illness or accident. I do enjoy your series and the videos on your project layout. Possibly the next time you do a project layout you folks could do something with curves of a larger radius that can be disassembled like the Beer line was.
It would be nice to see a sectional layout, (not sectional track) HO scale, with something like 30 inch curves that could later be incorporated into a larger railroad as space expands.
Thanks for your efforts.
The problem with Kato engines that are sold by Kato and not made for Atlas or Stewart is the separately applied details that have to be put on by the customer, when you are getting along in the years like me, this is not easy.
Cody, How do you pop the pantagraphs up on the Con-Cor Mp54 MU cars? I’m afraid I’d break mine if I force things. Also the Mp54 MU cars in PRR are great but the ones for the Long Island Railroad have a very fragile beam attached to the trucks for the third rail. On the LIRR cars each beam is attached to the truck by only two thin delicate plastic pins. Quite a few are broken in the box as they come from the factory.
Keep up the good work, Jim
As always, enjoyable viewing. I would like to know what the background music is during the portion of the video highlighting the visit to the rail car repair facility. I have heard this on numerous layout visit videos on the MR site and really enjoy it. It makes a great slow blues guitar jam track and would like to locate a longer version of it if possible.
Keep it up. Jeff
I really like the Kato EMD SD9043. I will look into getting one!
By the way, if you’re into model cars, shrink tubing makes great radiator hoses. Thanks, Cody! Another great installment.
Borrow your bride’s hair dryer. Cools faster.
nice succinct and informative- this keeps getting better!!!