Well, it would appear to be March, and that means it’s time for my family to start the epic struggle of putting together a last minute vacation to somewhere, anywhere in the continental United States. I know it was about this time last year that I was asking for information on here about Flagstaff, Arizona for a potential summer vacation and my family and I ended up not going. But, this year we’re going to try for Montana rather than Arizona and maybe we’ll do better with that.
Since I’m the railfan in the family, I always try to tie something train related into our vacations. This year I’ve suggested that perhaps we stay at the Izaak Walton Inn in Essex, Montana. I’ve already done some research on the internet and most of the reviews seem pretty positive, but I’m wondering if anyone here can provide a bit more information. Has anyone stayed at the Inn? If so, would you recommend it? If not, where else in the general area might you recommend? I know that the Inn is located close to Glacier National Park and I’m sure the park is full of things to do and see, but what else is there to do in the area? I’ve also noticed that “Jammer Bus Tours” of Glacier National Park are available at the Inn. Has anyone taken one of these tours? Also, besides staying at the Inn itself, what other railfanning opportunities are there in the area? I might also point out that my mom is recovering from hip replacement surgery, so extensive hiking, biking, etc are most likely out of the question when it comes to possible activities.
Looking at the Izaak Walton Inn’s website, it would appear that they have 3, 4, or 5 day vacation packages starting on June 15th which include the Jammer bus tour and other activities, so those would also be options.
I guess overall we just want to get a feel for what there is to do in the area, how the Izaak Walton Inn is, and what the railfanning in the area is like. Basically, is this trip worth
I would highly recommend Montana as well as the Izaak Walton Inn. We have been to Glacier 5 times and have incorporated the Izaak Walton Inn in to each trip. My wife and daughters are not the biggest railfans but they love staying at the Inn and always want a trackside room–I believe they like the sound of the idling helpers lulling them to sleep. Not to mention the good food, nice rooms, and activities.
We usually go for two weeks. We are a vagabond bunch, so we only stay in one spot two to three nights at the most. West Glacier has some nice inexpensive motels–the newer rooms at the Highlands are nice and you get a view of the tracks and depot. The food at the cafe in the gas station is good too.
In the park, we have also stayed at Lake McDonald Lodge, which I would recommend. We have never stayed at East Glacier Lodge, but I don’t believe you could go wrong if you are able to get rooms there. Many Glacier is nice and a good location to spot grizzlies as well as Swift Current.
Driving the Going -to-the-Sun road is as good as the best hike-totally breath-taking. If anyone in your party is scared of heights, ride the Jammer Bus as once the road starts gaining altitude, it becomes narrow with only the lowest of rock retaining walls between you and the valley hundreds of feet below.
At Logan Pass you will find Rocky Mountain Goats, big horn sheep and a two nice hikes, Hidden Lake and the Garden Wall. Around Swift Current, there is another great hike to Ice Berg Lake. Check with the rangers though, as this trail is often closed because of grizzly activity.
The railfan activity along US2 is well documented. The Izaak Walton Inn has a map with the hot spot locations. To the west is Sheep Creek Trestle, snow sheds, Summit, and Two Medicine Trestle close to East Glacier and the log cabin depot. To the east is numerous spots along the river to West Glacier.
Each trip to the area has varied. During the two weeks we are in the area, we usually go up to Canmore(CP
East Glacier is great, so is West Glacier, take the Going to the sun highway, why not go to Whitefish, Mont. great train station, lots of train movements, got a great GN switcher on display, Remember, you are only a stone’s throw from Canada, don’t forget your passport !! or you can’t get BACK to the states.
The Izaak Walton Inn is actually almost halfway between East and West Glacier, so it is around 30 minutes from either, but keep in mind East Glacier is not a main entrance to the park. The east entrance is actually about 45 minutes north of East Glacier at St. Marys. At one time there was a southern entrance proposed, which would have been near Essex, but it never happened. There are a number of hiking trails near the Inn.
If you are driving around and don’t want to cover quite as much territory as my first reply, there is a nice Rails-to-Trails bike path on the Idaho/Montana border, The Route of the Hiawatha Trail. We rode it last summer. The ski lodge at the the I-90 exit nearest the trail rents bikes as well shuttles you to and from the trail. They put you out at the top of the trail on the east side of the 1.66 mile St Paul Pass tunnel which you pedal thru. Then pick you up at the bottom of the 16 mile long trail. If you go this direction the whole trail is downgrade. Go to http://www.skilookout.com/hiawatha/ to see more.
In Apgar, the little village near the West Entrance, there are a couple of nice motels along the river following out of Lake McDonald which will usually have rooms available early in the day. This is true with most hotels/motels in the area.
I’d share, too, except that the personal information I have is nearly 31 years old. [swg]
Based on those memories, though, I have to say that Glacier is far and away the best national park in the country. I want to go back someday to explore more fully the park and the railroads near it. I might get there this summer- my wife and I are planning on taking my parents on a drive out to Oregon via British Columbia to visit members of both our families.
If you go back it would be interesting to read what changes you have noticed after all that time. I imagine the park itself, for the most part, will be unchanged. The areas within a few miles of its border except the Alberto Visitor Center in West Glacier probably have not changed too much. The trains have definitely changed, however orange is still in play.
I believe this is what makes this area our family’s favorite vacation spot—one of the few places in the US that has not changed much over the years and is not too crowded. Almost hate to let the secret out. Not to mention the beautiful scenery and the amazing Going-to-the-Sun road.
I have not personally stayed at the Inn, so commenting on it wouldn’t be helpful to you. But I can give you some ideas, since I vacation in Montana almost every year, back to my roots in the Gallatin Valley (Bozeman). First, try the Yorgo Inn in Lewistown. It’s the old Milwaukee Road depot and has been restored to a very nice historical piece celebrating the old North Montana line. Outside of town you can catch the Charlie Russell Chew Choo for a spectacular ride across the coulee country. You’re a long way from any mainline railroading (Bozeman being the closest, MRL) but it’s worth the trip.
If you go further west, take I90 over to Anaconda and catch a ride on the Rarus Railroad Copper King Express. Between Butte and Anaconda the UP comes from the south,and there is some good railroading there. From Butte, you can go north toward Helena and catch MRL over Mullan Pass, a heavy-duty helper district over the Continental Divide.
And if you go even further west, there is what I believe to be the crown jewel of railroad history, the Hiawatha Trail. This is the 16 mile bike-ride from the top of St. Paul Pass to a point maybe 2/3 the way to Avery, Idaho. 1% grade downhill, with shuttle bus back to the top if you wish. The little town of Avery, Idaho even has a motel, the Sweetwater, which is fabulous to stay in.
Wherever you go, Western Montana is fabulous to see, from Essex down to Yellowstone. Have a great time planning your trip!
Texas is another spot that we’ve considered. Perhaps next year. And we’ll certainly bring Mookie and the Driver along.
Some of my classmates are currently on a service trip to Laredo, Texas. I should have told them to stop by Houston so they could have the rare opportunity of seeing a Blysard in Texas. [:D]
Willy; I think that one of the best ways to get to Essex Inn is on the Empire Builder. Food service is excellent though not up to GN pre Amtrak levels. I rode the Builder in 2005 in a sleeper. It was one of my best vacations ever. You could take the Builder from St Paul where you could park your car at the station for free if you wanted a sleeper or drive to Grand Forks and ride coach. If you decide to drive out there plan to go through Edgemont SD and Gillette Wyoming on your way out. Lots of action. Edgemont’s website has a railfan section. Aricat
As far as Montana goes, Willy, I’ll probably be seeking advice from you in a few years–I eventually hope to visit most of the states I’ve never been to.
However, if getting there is half the fun, I’d suggest North Platte, Cheyenne, and the Powder River Basin as possible stops one way or the other (Cheyenne is not anywhere near the PRB).
I may have more to add later–as for that other guy, I wonder if he’d accept me and Pat (rhymes with cat) as a consolation prize. Not this year, though.
I’m afraid those places will probably have to wait for another vacation, Carl. We just don’t have the time to do all of that. Maybe some families could pack it all into two days, but we’d be lucky to do it in four.
Aricat - The idea of driving to Minneapolis and then taking the Empire Builder to Essex has really sparked my interest and my parent’s interest. Looking at airline fares vs. Amtrak fares, that’s about $300 cheaper than flying. Plus, who can beat a train ride? That’s really a great idea.
I wholeheartedly agree with Aricat that you should take Amtrak to Montana, but I would do it slightly differently. Why not jump on the Zephyr eastbound from Omaha to Chicago, stay overnite in Chicagoland, then take the Empire Builder to Montana. Then on the way home,continue west to Seattle, then South on the Coast Starlight to Emeryville, CA. After a couple of days in the SF bay area, take the Zephyr again to Omaha. My wife and I did that last year,except we didn’t stay in Montana. But you need to get in the sleepers on every leg of the trip, or you’ll be a mess after that much Amtraking in a coach. Make reservations as early as possible for a decent price. Six months in advance isn’t too much.
And to Brian in CR,
I’d make the same suggestion to you, Amtrak can get you to Vancouver, BC from Seattle, And then back down to Oregon. Maybe not in the exact city you want to visit relatives in, but you can always rent a car for those side trips. My wife and I went to Vancouver by Amtrak and had a great time wherever we went. Nearly 6000 miles is too much to drive for us. And I’d do it again in a heartbeat, except this year I’m thinking East coast, as we’ve never been east of Chicago on a train,except she came home from Grand Rapds, MI once on Amtrak.
Bill, as much as I’d LOVE to experience an Amtrak trip, it’s still not as convenient and flexible as our minivan, nor as comfortable as a king size bed in a decent motel (which, at 6’-5" and 275 lbs., I need).
My wife and I went last fall and it was a tremendous trip. We took the Empire Builder from Staples, MN to Whitefish (Coach) and stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Whitefish. The railfanning is just stunning, and the park is out of this world. You can see photos and the story of our trip starting here:
We didn’t stay at Essex but visited and it is a beautiful location. If possible I want to go back and stay there. Also, don’t miss the Going to the Sun Highway.
I preferred the east side of Marias Pass, but that is only a personal opinion. The entire area is gorgeous. If you have any questions, ask, and I will be happy to try and help.
Thanks for the link to your blog and photos. It’s always helpful to have a first-hand account like that. Thanks also for the resource link. I will need to peruse that in more depth later.
Bill, That would be quite the Amtrak trip. Perhaps sometime in the future when time and money aren’t such significant limiting factors I can give a trip like that a try.
Montana? Everyone has pretty much hit on the best things, may I offer some pics?
I grew up 180 miles from Glacier, so my opinion is jaded.
By all means yes, you won’t be disappointed. Bring plenty of memory cards for your camera [:D]
Your going in March ?, weather and cold may effect your outings, these pictures were taken June 2008.
Hanging out at Essex,
Hanging out at Whitefish, a nice GN museum is inside, be sure to visit.
If your take I-90, and go through Deer Lodge, take the exit and pay homage to E-70. It’s a small town and will only take a minute to find her.
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Glacier Park, it used to be the best kept secret, no more I guess. One problem you will have if you go in March, Going to the Sun Hwy will be closed due to snow. It usually doesn’t open until June. The road you see in this picture is the hwy. It’s like no road you will ever see.