Hi, I need a mortar color for brick structures? I would also need a good brick color. It need to be available from walthers since I’m placing an order with them.
Thanks for your help,
Magnus
Hi, I need a mortar color for brick structures? I would also need a good brick color. It need to be available from walthers since I’m placing an order with them.
Thanks for your help,
Magnus
rub white chalk over the brick, or if you want to paint, use the color Concrete from Floquil
Polly Scale concrete and aged concrete. Woodland Scenics has a couple good concrete stain colors too.(4 oz bottles for about $6)
Thanks for the help guys.
I will look for those, now any good brick colour, I want a dark/brownish red.
Magnus
Try a spray can of rust colored primer. It’s not from Walthers but your local everything store or hardware store will carry it and often for a dollar a can.
Ray
Do you have arts and craft stores near where you live? You should be able to buy craft paint a lot cheaper. I buy some base brick colors that are close and then do some custom mixing. That way your buildings don’t all have that same primer red color.[2c]
I like Red oxide for brick color
Bricks can be anything from a yellow or buff color to reds to browns to grey.
Mortar can be any color from white to buff to brown to grey.
I have found many buildings use a redder decorative brick on the front of the structure and a browner, cheaper brick on and sides and back of the structure. Virtually any of the “freight car” reds or browns or a red primer can be used for “red” brick. Some buildings used a very tight fitting brick with mortar colored very close to the color of the brick on the front of the building. For those you would see “mortar” per se, the whole front would be the brick color, but then the back had a cheaper brick and more mortar showing.
Many people use a “wash” of color, paint mixed with a lot of thinner, to go over the base brick color and make the mortar. Some people smear spackle or plaster over the walls and then use a damp paper towel or rag to wipe off the excess.
You might want to buy a package of the DPM plain brick modular wall sections and test some different combinations of brick and mortar color. You can get a lot of variation by just changing the mortar color.
Dave H.
I recently posted these photos in “Beer Barn”
My brewery complex has brick and morter modeled as follows.
I sprayed paint on the brick walls before assembly. You may select brick colors to suit your needs. You may lightly spray two or three colors rapidly before each color is all of the way dry to get a blend of colors in the bricks. I sometimes inclede a very light coat of black paint when I spray the other colors.
Next, I spread dry plaster of paris onto the walls with a paint brush. I attempted to spread it evenly on all brick surfaces. Next, I sprayed water with a fine mist spray bottle. I then let it dry over night. I brushed the sruface with a wire brush using horizontal and verticle strokes.
Then, I spread watered down gray acrylic paint using horizontal and verticle strokes. I watited until completely dry, and brushed again with horizontal and verticle strokes using a wire brush.
When done with all of that, I assembled the buildings.


Mortar is made from Portland Cement, Sand and some Line. Cement is mostly gray, sand can be any color, but Lime is white, Put it all in a mortar mixer and it comes about a light to medium gray.
I have no idea how anyone could produce a white mortar, other than Plaster of Paris. Using any white plaster or paint is just plain wrong in most instances for commercial and industrial buildings. There are exceptions to any rule, but the norm is the norm.
Most industrial buildings are built of common brick with common mortar, gray in color. Some front facades as been mentioned in another post are faced with face brick, a fancier, and usually redder brick that may have a textured surface. Sometimes that mortar is painted white, usually on schools, libraries and other public buildings.
I have found the best mortar look is obtained by using a medium gray Poster Paint (tempura) which I smear over the entire surface and keep wiping it off with a dampened paper towel. Leaving a light film in spots doesn’t hurt, because not all buildings were acid washed after the mortar has set.