I have 3 blue box Athearn diesels which need new motors now. The one needs a new motor support piece as well. I have no qualms with the original motors, these are just a bit cooked either from me (my one transformer got funny a few months ago) or one that I had bought. Any ideas where I can get replacements? Thanks.
You would need to be specific as to which BB locomotives you have. If you don’t have the instructions to identify the motor part numbers, go to this site and see if the engine you have is listed: http://www.hoseeker.org/athearnmicellaneous.html
Once you have the part number, try Athearn’s website to see if they have the motor: http://www.athearn.com/Products/Parts/Default.aspx
I am new here so take my advice accordingly. I bought the two peg motor mounts from Athearns a couple months ago.Get your transformer problems straight before replacing motors. Been there done that. don’t know if Athearn has motors.
Still designing the S T & P
Well, I can assure you that the problematic transformer has been removed and I obtained another to replace it which works great.
The three locomotives are two SD9’s and one PA1. All 3 have the metal side frames and steel flywheels, so they are the older style ones. I was just hoping someone out there made direct replacements, newer style motors would be even better if possible. I have a GP9 that I got new as a kid with the plastic sideframes and a newer motor and have never had any issues with it.
Ok, according to the website that someone helpfully posted, both the SD9 and PA1 use the same motor 84001, which makes perfect sense to me since they both look indentical. Does anyone know if the 84040, which appears to be a newer motor, can directly fit with the couplings, etc, of the older motor? Thanks.
You can purchase replacement motors from the Athearn Parts Department.
Their web site is http://www.athearn.com
then select your scale and click on “Parts” near the top of the page.
Why not repower w/ a decent can motor instead of that amp hungry Athearn.
Proto Power West? A-Line has just what you need. It won’t run like a Kato or new Atlas but will be impressed by the performance. www.ppw-aline.com/re-power.htm
I think that the 84040 motor should be a direct replacement for the 84001 open frame type that you have. But I personally don’t believe in guessing, so if were me, I’d make a quick call to Athearn and ask. Their customer service parts people are normally very helpful: http://www.athearn.com/About/Contact.aspx
Actually, If the PPW-A line motor doesn’t make the loco run better than a Kato, then you should be mad. Katos are great but a full on Can motor is better. You shouldn’t need to use the open frame motor. As long as the motor is the right length on the shafts. It should work.
Well if your going to go have to change out the motor why not do it right, with either a Helix Humper motor one of my favorites repowered ever Athearn in the roster with these, they pull like a Mack truck after your done or go with North West Short Lines who also makes gears and wheel sets etc. for Athearns as well. Not that the stock motor form Athearn or Kato is bad but both of these are clearly better hands down
The main difference between the Athearn BB motors is the flywheels, long short, switcher and RTR (has different new driveline couplings), long, short and switcher. The 84040 is correct for those older models. Athearn also has the motor mounts.
The #84040 is a direct replacement for your old motors. I see that Horizon’s recently raised the price from $14 to $23 though.[:O] The gold motors run smoother, slower, and quieter than the old motors, and their current draw is fairly low.
Th A Line #70321 remotor kit with flywheels includes one of the highest quality motors available in HO, which will fit the SD9 once you add the appropriate cradle weight, but they don’t have any way of mounting it in the PA because of the odd frame. Mounting in the PA will probably require milling of the frame. It’s also very expensive at $48.
The Helix Humper #132 motor kit is listed as being able to fit all of the larger Athearn diesels including the PA. It may still require some milling of the frame, but it is now one of the cheapest options at $21. If you also want new flywheels, their #142 kit uses the same motor and comes with large brass flywheels.
I’ve remotored many BB locos with A-Line, Mashima, and Helix Humper motors. The difference is incredible! The engines have fantastic low speed operations, pull less juice, and are much smoother on the start and stop. That would be my recommendation as well.
Me too. I’m new to HO as I’m a O person. Any athearn loco I get off of the bag, I plan on re-motoring as I have done everything possible to try and get the old motors to run with any type of decency is just to much of a PITA. Sure it costs more but it’s worth it.
I ordered a Helix Humper w/o the flywheels. So I’ll go ahead and use my flywheels and couplings. I have a puller and vice, so that shouldn’t be an issue. I’ll let everyone know how it goes.
I’m not trying to answer a question with a question, so if it sounds like that, I’m sorry.
I used to own several Athearn BB locos, but they were very noisy compared to others, so I got rid of them. What makes them noisy, the motors, the trucks / wheels, the gears, or something else ?
I have read the posts regarding Pearl Drops toothpaste, but never tried that. Does it really work ?
I wouldn’t mind buying a few for my collection, as they are reasonably priced and easy to work on.
Ideas are appreciated.
Thanks, Joel
You better check the drive shaft diameters of both motors, the Athearn has a rather thick drive shaft compared to most of the can motors. NWSL used to make conversion bushings, but I don’t think the new owner has gotten them back in stock yet. You’re probably better off with the Helix flywheels anyway as they are balanced.
Some of the noise comes from the open-frame motor and some comes from the gears in the trucks and some comes from the drive line.
Pearl Drops does in fact work, it’s like putting 50+ hours of running time on the gears in 20 minutes. The abrasive in the Pearl Drops smoothes out all the gear surfaces, you can also do this with sandpaper by swiping each gear tooth with a folded piece of sandpaper, a slow and tedious process, hence the Pearl Drops.
Lightening up the spring tension on the Athearn motor brushes will quiet the motor some, as will running it, but alot of people just replace the motor with one of those others have already mentioned for the reason they described.
I want to add the Micromart can motor to the list, it essentially a Mashima clone and often goes for $18 (on sale). I have tried a few of them and they’re just as quiet and smooth, once the shell is back on the loco I can’t tell the difference.
The HH motor comes with brass bushings installed on the shafts so the Athearn flywheels can be reused.
Athearn did seem to have problems with the balance of their gray flywheels for a while, but I think they had them pretty well refined before switching to brass. If the flywheels are off-balance, they can be fixed pretty well by drilling a hole in the heavy side. The metal is fairly easy to drill with a press, so I think they’re made of something other than steel (maybe zinc).
Blue Box Atherns are really old technology. Unless you’re really committed to those locomotives for some reason, such as you customized the bodies or whatever, I can’t see sinking a lot of money into them. A really simple fix would be to pick up a used PA 1 or SD 9 at a train show for a few bucks, making sure its a runner of course, and swapping its shell for your old one. I’ve seen them go for as little as $5.00 with plenty of life still left in them.