First I am pretty happy with the entre level steam power I bought by Bachman. They look pretty darn good and with a little work pull well. Added 2 OZ’s to each engine and still can spin the drivers and do a 16 car drag up a 2% grade.
The down side is the front coupler is fake.[:(!] I wanted to run the GS-4’s doubled headed, plus there is a Niagara 4-8-4 as well. (has problems with the tender)
I was just wondering if any one here has done this before. I asked this one other time and some kind people posted links to the Kadee site. But all I found was how to install the Kadees on the tender.
Guess this is sort of a Kitbash, I know there is going to be some cutting of the bodys to get this done. But I can do it with some part numbers of pockets, and couplers that are needed. Kadee’s will need to be drop necks that is for sure and long shank. I have lined up one GS-4 front to the other one tender and way off.
First, it sounds like you DON’T have the Kadee height gauge. This is a must for aligining the couplers and trip pins correctly. Don’t get fooled by using one coupler number on all rolling stock, or designating one car as the “standard” for coupler height. The gauge is only $4.00 and well worth it for the headaches it will save you.
Other than that, it sounds like you’ve already got a grip on what you need to do to mount a front coupler on this loco. There’s going to be some cutting, drilling, and tapping work to do to mount this coupler. Take your time and work carefully, line it up properly, and you should have a good working and good looking coupler installation.
I believe he meant to call/email Kadee and see what they say… none too helpful if you ask me.
I think TomDiehl’s post is what you’re actually looking for.
I don’t know what the front of the B’mann GS4’s look like, though I’ll try to help…
If they already have a pocket cut in the pilot (for the dummy) pop that out and see if you can fit a KD through the slot (might require some filing to widen the slot). If thats good, then try and get a coupler box behind the slot and a KD over the mounting pin and onto the centering spring. check clearances for the pilot truck, then drill & tap for a 2-56 screw.
I haven’t done a Bachmann GS-4, but I have done lots of other Bachmann and IHC steam engines.
You don’t really need a complete installation in order to double head. My coupler installation has no centering action and not much side movement, but it will allow you to couple with other engines.
I use a plastic shank coupler and cut off the end with the hole. Then I drill a very small hole in the shank. I also drill the same sized hole in the pilot area where the coupler goes. (The hole size should be the same as the wire size you are using for a press fit.)
Then I very carefully insert the coupler into the coupler pocket and push a brass wire down into the pocket and coupler. The wire has a small bend in the end so it doesn’t fall through.
Msowsun, thanks and I get the idea. What I was the coupler pocket of the Kadee spring and the hole needed. What radius are your turn’s? I still have a few 18" on my bench, they are going a way but for now still there.
Many thing is you have got me thinking out side of the box car.
I’ve converted a couple of these locos and each was different than the other. One had a dummy coupler and the other just had a solid front representing a covered coupler pocket.
On the loco with the dummy, check the dummy coupler with our #205 coupler height gauge. Most dummy coupler pockets are at the correct coupler height. If the dummy coupler is the right height remove it and enlarge the opening but leave the top of the pocket intact. Only file the sides and bottom of the pocket. I use a #36 coupler because the draft gear box is so versatile in achieving the correct coupler height and fitting into small areas.
I had to build a platform behind the pocket large enough to drill and tap a hole for a 2-56 screw. Assemble the #36 coupler with the thin lid on the top and file the opening according to the size of the box. Slide the coupler into the opening to where the coupler trip pin clears the tip of the body work and the opposing couplers’ trip pin clears it also. The front edge of the box should protrude just a bit. Mark the platform through the hole in the box and drill and tap it for a 2-56 screw of appropriate length. Tighten the screw just snug enough to hold the coupler in position and check it for the correct coupler height.
Custom fitting couplers should not require the use of an offset coupler unless the mounting surface is metal where it may be difficult to file it down to the correct mounting height.
On locos without a coupler opening it’s a matter of finding the right spot to cut a hole and then build a platform behind the opening. Also, sometimes if the slope of the pilot is not too bad you may only have to have an opening just large enough to slip the coupler shank through then assemble the 30 series draft gear box over the coupler shank and completely behind the opening.
I hope this helps a bit and if you need more help contact me off list at mail@kadee.com.
I just used the gauge and I was a little shocked, seems if anything the is a little low. would guess .010 low. Could not get the couplers to hook up do to the pilot (cow catcher) if I am using the wrong term.
I will take some PIC and post them so you kind folks know what I am working with.
