Mounting toggle switches

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I am curious to know how and where you all mount your SPST switches for running switches, lights, etc.

Presently, I use Atlas #205 connectors:

The #205s work OK but I’m not as crazy about the contact they make electrically. I’d looking for something that has a more definitive “feel” when turning my individual lights on and off.

I’ve been looking at SPST toggle switches but I’m not entirely sure how to aptly mount them to the side of my bench top. The side supports are obviously 3/4" thick and most toggles don’t have enough thread to offset that thickness.

So, I need something that’s ridge but not thick. Would 1/4" Masonite do the trick or is that still too thick? Any other suggestions and ideas are welcome.

Tom

2

Masonite might work for you. Usually, it is also available in 1/8" (or 3/16") thickness. The only way to tell for sure is to pick up a sample of the toggle you will use and test it along side of a piece of Masonite.

You might also consider 1/8" Lexan. It is a plexiglas-type material that is much stronger than regular plexiglas. You can draw your track diagram and put labels on the back side of it, then paint the back side, sealing in your diagram and labels. Looks cool when done. Lexan should be available at any of the big-box stores.

There are any number of ways to mount the panel to the side of your layout. Vertically mounted panels are nice if your layout is high enough that operators can read the labels without bending over. Otherwise, mount the panels at a slight angle to make them easier to see.

Hope that helps.

Darrell, quiet…for now

3

Hi Tom,
What about drilling in from the back of the 3/4" side supports with a wood boring bit, deep enough to allow the throat of the toggle switch to reach the front? Just a thought.
John

4

I built my control panel out of 1/4" Masonite/hardboard. 1/4" is right at the limit of depth for most average toggle switches. Here’s an earlier picture of my control panel with the toggle switches mounted.

Here’s the front.

5

I used 1/4" hardboard. It’s cheap, strong, smooth and can be painted. Lexan would work also but I’m not sure how much it cost.

6

Thanks, fellas! [:)] Any more ideas…?

Tom

7

Here’s what I did…

I got a corner piece of cable channel and drilled a hole in it to mount the toggle switch.

8

I used a forsner bit to cut holes in the back of 3/4 " material to hold the switches. Some had threads, some had tabs and some were held in with a drop of CA. They all worked. The 1" forsner bit with a depth stop would adjust to all switch stem thicknesses.

9

Tom, I saw an article in MR where a guy mounted the toggle in a sprinkler pipe cap and then mounted it to the back of the facia. This caused the toggle to be resessed into the facia.

10

I bought MINI toggels, DPDT that where on sale (bad move BUT) tried the masonite deal, to thick. My wife said to make it like the panel in the race car. I am, Aluminum sheet stock, .032 thick. Easy to work with. Option #2 is find a construction site that is putting up Aluminum siding and get the Channel Drops, picked up (2) 36" long pieces which I will use for the switch yards.
We have 235 to mount SO easy was the key word.
Take Care
George P.
P.S. use a stand off to mount the panel, I use a 1x2 off the facia.