MRC Tech 4 600?

I see them on ebay new for as low as $53 and also Tower Hobbies for $71. I think it has a total of 60VA. How much more power does this one have than my old MRC Tech 2 Trainpower 027? On the back panel of it it says "output 0-17 VAC, 18 VAC total 40VA. I plan on double and tripleheading smaller Lionel engines up a 2.5% grade. Will the Tech 4 600 have enough juice?

Boyd,

In a phrase, probably not. The larger MRC transformer has only 20 more VA (watts, essentially) than the smaller one.

One way of answering this question is to compare the larger MRC transformer to the specs for the CW80 which are available online at the Lionel website under Customer Service, Owner’s Manuals. You might also get data about the power requirement of your specific locomotives from the same source; or, if postwar, from the K-line Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains, or Olsen’s Toy Train parts website online. Look under “Transformers.” (Bear in mind that many older transformers give a power statistic in terms of “input,” whereas many newer transformers use “output,” which is really what you are interested in. Also, that most of these specs assume level track and a modest number of freight cars. Illuminated passenger cars require even more power.

You can do the research. Suffice it two say that at best it appears that the larger MRC transformer can put out only about 3/4 the power of a CW80, which are not known to have “excess” power. Triple-head up a grade? I doubt it.

Boyd, BF pretty well sums it up.

When I decided to go DC power with my layout, I did try some MRC power packs. While they are great and have nice features, they don’t have the reserve power especially when adding illuminated cars. Also think of it this way: of the smaller box type transformers that came with postwar and MPC Lionel train sets, only the best ones were 45 or 50 watts and that’s enough power to run what came with the set and maybe one or two more illuminated cars.

When I considered the cost of a larger MRC power pack (they do make them for G scale stuff), I decided to stick with my old reliable Lionel 90 watt 1033, utlizing a bridge rectifier and a DPDT switch. Lionel made one of these to run their large scale trains using a normal Lionel transformer. Cost-wise, it’s hard to beat the 1033 for versatility and reliability… you can usually find them for between $35-$50 depending on condition. And less if they need repair or are missing handles or need a new power cord. Both those are easy fixes. And I’ve modified normal plastic dimmer switch handles to fit the 1033… can’t beat that at $1 each.

BUT I will add Boyd, if the smaller locos you refer to are the modern type with truck mounted DC can motors and no command control, the 1033 should suit your purposes for the most part. I double up my locos (with dual DC can motors) or can triple my Industrial Switchers and the 1033 runs those just fine, even with some added illuminated cars. But I use one 1033 devoted to the track only. All other lights and accessories are powered off separate transformers, so I’m not drawing off any reserve of the main 1033 to the track.

My CW80 that came with my last set is a door stop. Its one of the older ones before they changed the defect in them. So the next step up is a new CW80, what are the next bigger ones than that? I don’t like the older transformers that start out at a high voltage and jackrabbit start the train. So its something modern or new for my next purchase. I just might save up money and spring for one of the big monster transformers.

Boyd,

The postwar 1033/1044 and its family can be wired to start from zero volts but you lose on the top end which is about 11 volts I think. They are designed to put out about 54-60 real watts or about 5 amps. I believe the KW can be hooked up in a similar way, using “C” as common and either A or B as hot. You get a smooth 0-14 volts, which isn’t bad, but I’d be cautions about the circuit breaker protection in this configuration. Bob Nelson (lionelsoni) has written about this elsewhere in this forum

But a working CW80 (Revised version) that will go smoothly from zero volts to 17 or so, is a reasonable choice, although I am still waiting for Lionel to release a unit in the 150 watt range. Maybe someone else has an idea. This comes up a lot.

If, as Brianel suggested, you were to run your trains with one transformer, such as a Revised CW80, and any lights or accessories off your present MRC, you might get by. But three motors on a CW80 is stretching it a bit.

You might also try getting Lionel Customer Service to replace your dead CW80. According to that other forum, the new Service Manager at Lionel may have instituted some new policies.

Hey Boyd,

If you want a good bargain with plenty of power use a postwar lionel Z. Don’t confuse this with a ZW. It was made from 1938 to 1942 and 1945 to 1947. It has four variable circuts and 25 volts output. It will drive any train right off the layout. The best part is you can get one totally restored for around 185.00. Thats alot cheaper than a ZW in the same condition. I use one on my three train layout and have a lighting circut as well. Go to (www.lioneltransformers.com) and check out this and other post war items. The gent that runs the business does a great job restoring them to like new condition. I recieved mine in a repro box nicely packed and it looks brand new. I use mine with 3 PM-1s and a TMCC remote.

STEVE

Boyd,

Older Lionel transformers are usually bulletproof, but you do lose modern circuit protection circuitry and the bell button.

Don’t ignore the MTH Z-1000, which has 100 watts of power. It has none of the problems of the CW-80 and can be picked up on ebay between $40 and $60.

I would stay far away from any K-Line transformers, BTW. They made a model that was rated at 120 watts, but all the ones I had have become doorstops.

NH Chris