Hello Everyone! I am planning my first layout and honestly. I don’t know where to start with my bench. Things I know: N Scale 3’X6’ about 3’ tall DCC! Things I am completely lost with: Type and quality of wood. Bracing of the table. Drawers under my layout…I know this is possible. Any suggestions? Table top - Wood or Foam? This is particularly puzzling to me. Do I put a piece of plywood then a layer of the pink or blue foam? Or, do I just use one type? HELP! Wiring! Even with DCC I know I need to do some wiring. Can someone point out a good place to learn about wiring for a DCC layout! Thanks for your help in advance!
Welcome!
[1] N Scale Juniata Division is a starting point with Dave Vollmer to see what can be accomplished on a 36"x80" hollow core door.
[2] Spookshow’s Model Railroading is a frank discussion of what was learned over six N Scale layouts.
These two websites will answer a lot of your questions while providing answers to the questions we all forget to think to even ask.
You mentioned that the layout will be 36"x72". You might consider putting your N scale layout on a blank interior door which comes in variable widths up to 40", but almost all are 80" tall. There have been a couple of articles in MR that have done just that. The wood species isn’t very important. Pine or even plywood could do for bracing. You’re not making furniture. Most bracing is 1"x4". You can put foam core on plywood, upside down ceiling tile (although that may be a bit coarse for N scale), bare plywood, there isn’t any one method that’s correct. Look up some back articles in MR on benchwork/layout construction. MR usually does a project layout in the winter months that would guide you through the whole process. Check it out.
As far as DCC,… can’t help you there.
I believe February’s Model Railroader has an article on the building of benchwork for an N-scale project layout.
Whether one’s choice is HO, N, O, S, G, or Z, benchwork construction is the same. Nevertheless, many modelers believe N-scale layouts must be door-sized and HO-scale layouts must be the size of 4-by-8 plywood sheets. I wonder, have double-wide garage doors become the standard for G-scale layouts? [:-^]
Mark
Thanks for the help! A door might be too big…3x5 might even be to big at this point but thats the plan! Again thats for the help!
You’re now using a model railroad planning concept John Armstrong called Givens & Druthers – Listing what you’d like to do then looking at what is a fact of life (like 3’x5’) then going to what can be done.
Take it this is a walk-around layout design.
You asked about drawers etc. Take a look at the 2008 and 2009 photo pages on Lance Mindheim’s web site. He did that.
I have read about Givens and Druthers. Its such a great concept!
Tips for a new guy.
#1 - Learn the terminology. This will allow you to ask the right questions and understand the responses given.
#2 - You are building benchwork, not a bench. A bench is something you sit on. Benchwork is what you build a layout.
#3 - A good source to learn about all the things you ask about - benchwork construction, wiring, DCC etc. is your library. It usually a big building near the center of town. You go in and they let you borrow books and take them home to read and look at. Check out their selection of model railroading books. You’ll find a lot of libraries have various Kalmbach books in their collection.
#4 - Spend some time reading those books. Think of them as your first reference source. Come to online forums to ask for clarification of what you’ve read and instead asking broad, general questions like “How to I build benchwork for a layout?” There are books specifically about building benchwork, or wiring, or DCC, or scenery or there are books that take you from start to finish building a model railroad. You don’t have to build the same exact layout. It’s the techniques and methods you want.
Dude, seems like you take this way to seriously. By searching this great forum, the rest of this website, and talking to the FRIENDLY people on this website, I think I am going to really gain a lot of knowledge about this HOBBY.
Everyone on this forum has been exceptionally helpful! Except you.
Speaking to people like they are in elementary school usually doesn’t win you brownie points where I am from. You go big man.
To everyone else that has responded with useful advice and tips. THANK YOU.
J.
Dude! Here’s an example of tip #1
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/167355.aspx
While it is difficult to understand exactly what he is trying to explain, part of the problem is that he is using incorrect terms. He uses the term bolster. I think he is trying to say that he’s experiencing problems with wear on the sideframes. Bolster? Sideframes? Why be concerned about which term is used? Because they are two different components of a truck assembly. A proper use of the terms will increase everyone’s understanding of the problem and lead to a better solution or even just a solution. It’s like say “the thingamajig that’s connected to the dohickey broke, where can I find a replacement” No one will know what you’re talking about and be able to help. Since this is a forum based on written communication being able to properly describe your issue using the proper terms is essential since we all can’t look at what you’re building in person.
Actually, even though Silver Pilot can be a bit on the blunt side, he actually is right about a book being a better way than a forum for those really basic questions.
The reason is that a book explains things step-by-step and as a coherent whole.
Any question you ask to a big group of people (and especially a wide open question) will get you 10 different answers, since different people have different ways of doing things.
Mixing and matching advice from 10 people can be hard if you don’t have a basis for judging what advice makes sense in your circumstances and what does not make sense.
This one seems like a pretty good starting book in N scale: http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12428.html
Will set you back about $20. Which is very petty cash compared with how much you will be spending on this hobby over time.
Good luck with your layout!
Smile,
Stein
Dude! More help for for tip #1 and tip #2
http://www.trains.com/mrr/default.aspx?c=glossary&term=b
Note that ‘Benchwork’ is the term listed, not ‘Bench’.
Thanks everyone for the help. I was MIA for a few days taking care of buying a new car and such! I’ll look through all the into you have given me and get back to you with more questions I’m sure! Jon
Jon, let me see if i can assist. first unless you are in a wheelchair or sitting all the time, a 36" height benchwork will wind up giving you back problems. 42,48 or 52 inch height would be more realistic.
For N scale your benchwork needn’t be heavy, 1x3 outside frame and 1x2 stringers (pieces going across the inside) should be heavy enough for your size. i would suggest a stringer every 18-24 inches, your choice which.
as far as the lumber itself, most use clear white pine, no knots. also make sure there is no warping (look down a long side and see if it bends one way or the other) also look across the width and see if it bends either way. the wood you use should be straight and free of knots, twists, bows or warp.
defiantly predrill all the holes for your nails or screws, otherwise the pine can split. i use drywall screws, they are cheap and easy to use.
you can make the legs from 1x1 or 2x2, just be sure they are straight.
1/8 inch plywood on top then the foam wouldn’t be a bad idea, while the foam should be OK with just 24" bracing the addition of the plywood isn’t a bad idea if the cost isn’t an issue.
as for the pink or blue foam, they are interchangeable and mixable. one thing i have done is paint it after it is up . that seals it before i put any scenery on it. i use inexpensive latex housepaint, a tan or brown color will do.
while a good long look at the glossary in the forum isn’t a bad idea i also agree that books will help in both getting basic concepts down and working with the wiring.
welcome to the forum and i wish you luck
Jongrill.
Just a little bit of help based on what I did to build my 3 X 6 N scale layout. As I only had some basic hand tools, I did a little walk-about in my local Home Depot. I found a section of short lengths of clear pine of different sizes and lengths. ( 1x1, 1x2, 1x3 and 1x4 and in standard lengths of 2ft., 3ft. and 4ft.). They were easy to carry home, and NO cutting required. These pieces cost just a little bit more than buying long pieces and cutting them myself, but the convenience of having EVERY cut square and each piece of wood straight and with no knots was worth it for me. The whole framework and legs cost me about $25.00 with taxes. And that is up here in Canada where everything costs more.
As has been suggested, unless you are confined to a wheelchair or have some medical problem, go up to at least 48" high. It is much easier to work on the layout. Also, when putting everything together, make sure that everything is SQUARE and LEVEL.
Good luck.
Blue Flamer.