I took some room measurements for an around-the-walls N scale layout. I’m trying to maximize my space and get started designing my layout, but I’m stuck.
What is the ideal width for N scale?
I’ve read sources that say 30 inches, but others say 18-24 inches because 30 is too deep. I realize this is an internet forum, so a consensus is probably out of the question, but I’m hoping for some direction here.
How tall are you, and what is your arm reach?
I am 6’ tall and my sleeve length is 33”. So, I can reach in 36” on my HO scale layout by bending forward a little. I weigh 185 pounds, and I am not obese which is an important consideration.
Rich
If you don’t want to stand on a stool or ladder 24” to 30” max depending on your reach. I have 36” and 42” on mine and I need a step to reach.
I’m 6’ tall as well, but I’m also beefy. 50 yr old man belly is definitely a consideration!
Nothing scientific, but using a yardstick as reference, I can comfortably reach 30 inches, and probably up to 36.
There you go. Make that layout width 36”.
Once your scenery is in place and track laid, you can reach the track if needed since it won’t be 36” away.
Rich
It’s not just the benchwork width that matters, it’s also the height. The taller the benchwork, the shorter the reach should be. My (HO) layout benchwork varies between 18" and 30" with levels at 40" (lower) 60" (middle) and 52" (upper in the elevated center platform).
If it’s single deck layout I would recommend 24" deep at between 45"-50" elevation.
Good point about height of layout.
My HO scale layout is 36” high.
Rich
Okay, that’s kind of the happy medium I had in my mind: 24" deep @ 48" height.
Thank you!
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. We love photos.
Rich
One further thought.
You could set up a temporary bench 48” high and 36” deep. See how far in you can reach.
That’s what I did to test my reach on my new layout .
Rich
You can fit a good bit of yard and scenery in 24 inches in N scale. On my layout, the typical width ranges from 18 to 24 inches and that tends to work great for most scenes.
My layout (HO) is primarily around three walls of my basement. I used 16" shelfs from Menards along the walls, and widened out in a couple spots to 64" for reverse loops. I find it worked out well for yards, switching areas, and mainline runs. I’d think it would work that much better in N scale.
The shelves cost more than just using plywood and conventional benchwork. However, the shelves are super-strong and don’t sag. Plus, you install them by attaching metal risers to the walls with screws. The risers range up to about 6 feet tall, so once they are in place you can have one shelf for the trains, a shelf above it for the lighting, and one or two shelfs below the track level for storage…or for more tracks!
One additional consideration. Dexterity decreases as reach increases. If, say, 32" is max for HO for a guy your height and reach, max be be only 28" or a few less for N scale as you’ll be handling and rerailing power and rolling stock that is smaller. Correspondingly, scenicing and track maintenance will also take a hit as dexterity and finer detail is harder to produce at the same reach.
Perhaps some experimentation across a range of common activities is in order before you get too far in the planning.
John
Great suggestion! 
Rich
My comments are it depends on your track plan and the intended height of your layout. Reaching in to a MAX length to do one time scenery and install buildings is one thing, which you could do with the help of a stool or step ladder. But, installing and aligning track correctly is a much different matter. Additionally, rerailing rolling stock, throwing turnouts manually, and other factors on your completed layout are yet more considerations. And as previously stated by others, personal height and arm length are definitely a factor. My advise is to mock up your “layout” (not the entire layout, just a section) with a table or a sheet of plywood to the given intended height of the layout. Then experiment with the functions I mentioned here (scenery, track, maintenance, etc.). Take notes or draw lines on the plywood to indicate just how far you are comfortable with each major “reaching function”. Then maybe even consider (if you have set up plywood) trying a little bit of each function I mentioned to prove the reach level is in fact doable. You don’t need to glue down scenery but just go through the physical motions of doing it. Then only you can decide exactly how far a reach is acceptable to you. Note, you don’t need an exact, final track plan but just a ballpark idea if track will be at the far back or buildings, or scenery, etc. Hope this was clear enough and I hope this helps you out.
Regards, Chris
I like it, Chris.
Rich
Thanks, it just my own personal experience dating back 30 years ago when I started my layout.
Regards, Chris
Thank you for the replies everyone - lots to think about. I suppose the good news is, I have a shop full of tools to build a few configurations and see what works best for me.
While this layout isn’t going to be a basement empire with multiple operators or anything, I do want to maximize my real estate but not at the expense of squeezing myself into tight aisles.
Keep us posted.
Rich
